Im using 17x9 wheels now. If i wasnt going with the widebody kit, id run 15s. Thing is, my wheels are heavy, coupled with 1inch spacers and heavy grippy 235/40 goodyear eagle f1's and im breaking traction in 3rd an some of 4th. I need the weight.

 

You do not need the weight. You need a good tire. Taller with a little more sidewall would help.

 

My previous car made 2-3x more power then yours does on little 15x10 convo pros with 28x11.5's and it'd nearly dead hook on the street. F1's blow. Even on a stock 300rwhp pig of an F-body, they SUCKED.

Get some 275 MT's for those 17x9's if you insist on keeping the rotational mass steam rollers.

 

the other thing I have to take into consideration is the fact that I drive 82 miles round trip to work everyday. I dont want to be buying tires every month.

 

So have a set of rears for when you want to get your Toretto on.

 

This is exactly what I was going to say.

1)buy a pair of cheap 15's.
2)install some kick *** slicks
3)run whatever garbage **** you want for those 82 mile trips to work
4)rape face and profit

 

god damnit people now I have to go get 15's! Ugh need to cheep *** 15x9 or 10s now. Considering I get my eagle F1's for 160 shipped for 2, I kinda like using them lol

 

18psi has the same idea I was thinking about, but it is your car.

 

Those tires are horrible. You've seen how much traction I have 1->2 with them.

 

get some 6ul's jared, and call it a day.



or theres always TR wheels

 

I have some RS2s on and I actually do not have wheelspin in fourth when the temperature is above 50*. 255/50/50 I am very impressed with them. I thought that over 300hp they would be junk.

 

This is what we did back in the glory days... You always knew when we were heading to the track... DD 17's up front, 16's in the back with DOT's. The only difference on the return trip with the layer of rubber on the back end of the car hanging like black love sauce.

Get a set of sticky DR's, rip Pusha a new one out of the hole, and by 75, hit your brake lights. Instant win. Your drivetrain can take more of a beating then his can, so hit em where it hurt and run a man's race

The 15's just make sticky tires SOOO much cheaper. 300 each for junk 555R's sucked. 125 for NT01's (still a non hooking tire, but better then F1's) is much nicer.

 

 

Impromptu PIC BATTLE!

 

 

 

ok im done. On a technical note, I figured out why things were running a bit odd on my car. For one, when we took out the engine or when we were putting it back, the wires to the coolant temp sensor harness sheered and were making contact. This was telling my ecu that my coolant temps were 500+ degrees which in turn was reducing my timing as this wiring mishap was registering as knock on the hydra.

I fixed it and voila, knock has disappeared. Also, I have maxed my injectors out at only 25psi and after looking as to why (because I know the .5 bump in compression is not making THAT huge of a difference) I noticed that my one of my fuel lines is kinked so today Im going to pick up a temp hose and along with that, everything i need for the dual feed setup.

 

kinked? damn, that could have gone terribly bad...

 

OK so riddle me this hydraman:

Why does my car, in the middle of a long WOT pull, occasionally have a huge jolting misfire after which all the logs of the hydra turn to garbage?

 

Because with all other electrical loads on, I bet you any money the fuel pump is only seeing about 9v. Wire the bitch to see a constant 12 using a relay and bam, the 255lph will suddenly support an *** load more constant pressure and fuel delivery

Ill do a write up when I tackle this. I totally forgot I did this 7 years ago when I had the FD. My memory is so terrible. My 660cc injectors with the right fuel pressure and pump voltage can easily supply enough fuel for 400whp. Its easy to forget theres a brain in my head considering all the idiocy I post lol