NB2, yes. No Ac. Yes PS.

I was hoping to use that hole for a cold air intake. But I have the recommended intercooler, with the MOAR (Mother Of All Radiators), and no AC, and a vented hood if I need it. And I know how to duct things. So if MSM routing is the way to go fine I'm all over that and that side of the undertray doesn't have to be molested. But we all know what a good molester I am. I can do it if I have to.

Hotside I was just going to do the FM hose, and put the air sensor into the endtank.

 

Yeah. It sucks to plug that hole, since it is the only path for cold air into the engine bay on the hot side. I was tentatively planning to use it as well. Your build looks to mirror what I am planning to do this time next year, so I will pop some popcorn and watch. Any and all good ideas will be stolen!

 

Verified AC voltage was present and within range at the abs sensor wiring connector when the wheel is spun at approx 1 rev/s. Measured around .5 volts.

Reconnected, went up to the main abs brain connector, verified AC voltage was present when the wheel was spun again on pins R,Q.

Applied brake switch, verified voltage was present on pin Y.

So everything looks ok as far as I can tell. I will attempt to reset it again and go for a drive.

 

Took a test drive and didn't snap anything. Brakes seemed a little soft, and ABS light was lit. I didn't go very far, so if it resets by driving cycles, I didn't go far enough to trigger that. Also my AFR gauge is either wrong or I was super rich. So I've:

• Bled brakes again. Got some more air out of the rears. Ran another half quart through the system.
• Attempted to reset the ABS again. Edit: I do the press-brakes-10-times-quickly thing. The brake light (instrument cluster ebrake bulb) comes on for about 2 seconds, and the ABS light stays lit. I turn it off, disconnect the ground, turn it back on, doesn't seem to be reset. ABS light remains on. Continues to flash 1long/2short, LF sensor. As noted above all electrical tests indicated by the FSM checked out for the LF sensor.
• Ran the LC2 O2 sensor calibration process again.

After the meat comes off the grill I'll go idle it and look at what the MS3 is seeing. It's connected digitally, whereas the gauge runs off an analog output, so the true readings may be fine. If the MS3 readings do correlate with the gauge, and the gauge is still off, then it's possible the LC2 is set for the wrong O2 sensor type. There are two options for the O2 sensor. It should be set to the one they sent me, but you know. Checking this requires connecting to the digital out, which is currently connected to the MS3, and is not something that can be plugged/unplugged easily at the MS3 end. So I've ordered another cable from Amazon, due tomorrow.

If the MS3 readings don't correlate (ie MS3 looks correct while gauge reads rich) then the analog out setting is probably off. Which I can fix, by connecting the cable that's coming tomorrow.

Another test drive this evening, and alignment tomorrow.

 

ABS light is still lit, but brakes are solid now. I'll put at least 50 miles on it tomorrow.

Tunerstudio shows good AFR values, so something's up with the input to the gauge. I'll look at the LC2 settings tomorrow evening.

I have a weekend at ORP this weekend. I've made arrangements to have the car trailered up and back (about 2.5 hours one way), but I'm on the fence, since I've driven the car so little. I may not take the car. I'm instructing and it's basically a guys' getaway weekend, so still benefit to my going even without the car.

 

2582 with me in the car, no hardtop.

Crossweights look good.

Of my available 6 degrees of front camber, I went with 3.5. 2.8 in rear. About 6 degrees of caster. Zero toe front, 1/8 rear.

ELBJ + V8R lower arms = all the camber.

Car runs well. Sounds good with the roadstersport midpipe and muffler. I put my enthuza NB xr lightweight on, but, it's ricer loud. Sounds glorious and is hella light but it is not civilized. Restaurant and bar patrons look over and give you That Look as you try to keep out of the BRAPPP but fail because the brap is all conquering. The decel pops and crackles are great though. When the turbo goes on, I think it will be the one.

Edit : Thanks Josh aka Curly for the alignment. Broforce.

 

Should be a good setup. I went with 3.5 front a 3.0 rear, with 1/16 total toe rear. Since I drive the car 100 miles each way to the track, I have seen more inside tire wear than I would like, and most of it is probably happening in the rear, due to the combination of camber and toe. When I have my yearly alignment done in December, I will probably drop the rear to 2.8 to see if it helps. In any case, the car has monster grip on the track with that setup. I am seeing 1.6G on R888s with no aero.

I have a Racing Beat dual exit that came with the car. I need to take it off and weigh it. If I think it is too heavy, I have my eye on the Enthuza Speeder. Not sure I'm young enough to get away with the XR anymore, but I have thought about swapping one on just for track days. Heh. Maybe it's time to update my own "build" thread, instead of polluting yours.

Car looks like it is coming along nicely!

 

is it 3"?

 

No bitch it is not.

Full 3" exhaust is a future expense. My budget is all sploded for this year.

 

 

Car is going to ORP in a trailer and I am driving it.

I am disappoint in mt.net that I mentioned the possibility of having a trailer available, and that I was considering not driving, and no one called that out. What would our current president say? SAD

No aero. 15x9 charcoal 6ul and 225/45 Toyo RR takeoffs.

 

I fixed the DB-1 AFR gauge tonight once the cable arrived. When doing the wiring I managed to connect it to the brown wire, output 2, which is narrowband by default. I reset it to output the wideband signal same as the yellow wire, output 1, and the gauge works fine now.

Interestingly, LMWorks was telling me I had a Bosch 4.9 sensor. My order documentation indicates I ordered a Bosch 4.2 sensor. Whatever, doesn't really matter to me as long as it's calibrated and functioning.

 

You set 4.2 vs 4.9 in software. Make sure it's set the same or there will be issues. The 4.9 connector is different

 

Actually now that I've searched it further I don't see where it specifies which sensor I have in the order. I didn't change what LMWorks told me I had, so should be fine.

 

The analog output was set to narrowband. Gauge reads properly now.

Weekend at ORP was excellent. Ran the Toyo RR's at around 34.5 hot, seemed about perfect. Checked tire temps once and everything looked good. Car was very neutral, maybe a touch of understeer, but I could still rotate it predictably.

Only two issues now are:
a) LF sensor issue, going to swap sensors and see if the code follows the sensor
b) past half lock turning to the right, something is clonking. I believe it is the tie rod end hitting the rotor. Will be looking at that this afternoon.
c) no boost


d) oil leak up front. Maybe sandwich plate, maybe front main, maybe pan. Will look
e) no boost

A fellow instructor, previous owner of n/a miata track car and current owner of MSM occasionally tracked, went for a ride and thought I was running low boost. The motor sounds great and pulls hard.
Edit: I see the track map widget is misconfigured, will fix that later.

Fixed video with proper track map:

 

Fault code followed the sensor. How about that.

G I am looking locally but still willing to entertain your offer.

 

Forgot to mention cooling system performance this weekend. The car never went over 186, it was 100 ambient on Saturday. Stock hood, stock undertray, no ducting. Just the TSE radiator with one slim spal fan. No AC also, but no ducting. The TSE radiator is the way to go.

Edit: 180 thermostat.

 

Yeah, that TSE radiator is the cat's meow.

 

That's wicked impressive.

 

Obtained new used LF sensor. Fault code cleared. ABS brain ran the pump cycle when I keyed on with it grounded and the brake depressed. Everything looks good, should have functioning ABS tomorrow. Going to completely flush and bleed the system one more time while cycling the pump over and over to make sure there's no air in it.

My brief time as a lawbreaking rebellious SuperBlue user is coming to a close. I'll leave it in the clutch for now though.