Those Tillett seats are surprisingly comfortable for the amount of padding they have on them. We have a few cars at the shop with them and they are pretty baller. Glad to see they fit.

 

Agreed. Hold you in place very well and aren't bad at all on decently long drives. I'm about 6'0" 200lbs and they fit well. Much over that and they get a bit snug though. Love the rib holders instead of having shoulder wings.

 

So umm well ****. My fancy hubs have no abs ring, and no possibility of an abs ring, unless the ring can run parallel to the sensor instead of underneath it.

 

Lathe?

--Ian

 

hehe i was about to suggest that.

 

No. That would completely remove all material from that part of the hub, it's only about 1/8 inch thick.

 

But let's consider lathing down the hub, and lathing the inside of the ring to expand it.

My measurements:

Hub OD: 79.5mm
Hub ID: 71.6 MM

ABS ring OD : 76.7mm (measured inside teeth)
ABS ring ID : 69.8mm.

This type of work is all unknown to me, so I don't know when things become too thin. The hub at that location is only supporting the grease seal, so it's not loadbearing. So possibly could take the OD of the hub down to 74.5mm, and the ID of the ring up to 74.5mm. THat leaves me with a 2mm thick hub and a 1mm thick ring, roughly.

Or do it the other way, leave 2mm on the ring and 1mm on the hub. Or 1.5mm for both.

 

But let's consider lathing down the hub, and lathing the inside of the ring to expand it.

My measurements:

Hub OD: 79.5mm
Hub ID: 71.6 MM

ABS ring OD : 76.7mm (measured inside teeth)
ABS ring ID : 69.8mm.

This type of work is all unknown to me, so I don't know when things become too thin. The hub at that location is only supporting the grease seal, so it's not loadbearing. So possibly could take the OD of the hub down to 74.5mm, and the ID of the ring up to 74.5mm. That leaves me with a 2mm thick hub and a 1mm thick ring, roughly.

Or do it the other way, leave 2mm on the ring and 1mm on the hub. Or 1.5mm for both.

Edit. It's not like it will ever come apart again, it only has to go together the one time.

 

Should work. which hubs are these?

 

Unless I'm completely mistaken, awesome possum super duper mazda motorsports tapered bearing hubs. I believe Mr. Mobius will correct me if this in inaccurate.

https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/201...ts-miata-hubs/

 

Troof.

 

Greddygalant is loaning me Laz's front hubs, recently repacked, until I get this sorted out. Thanks Martin!

Edit: which, of course, don't have ABS rings on them. Lolol. I need my old hubs for ABS, but I need the rings to convert the new hubs.

 

I am moving on. The hubs are now going to Greta, the endurance NA run by some friends in Lucky dog as team Race Invaders. I get some cash and repacked abs front hubs in return.

Drivetrain is once again complete, everything is on and filled with fluids and torqued. Used OEM axles this time. I went and got the HF 3/4" torque wrench, which goes to 300 ftlb, to properly torque the rear hubs. Makes a big ole manly click when it clicks at 250 ft lbs. Exhaust is on as well.

I have run a new brake signal line down the passenger carpet edge into the trunk, in protective shielding. It will tie into the wiring where the trailer light module is tying in with proper crimps and stuff. Buh bye stupid line tap up by the brake switch.

Need to finish the wiring, get the new front hubs, and bleed the brakes a bunch again and I should be ready to snap another axle tomorrow afternoon.

 

All trailer wiring is complete. Brake signal re route from under dash to trunk brake light wiring complete.

Abs is flashing one long, two short, which is 12, which is LF sensor. We will see if that's for real after I clear codes.

Why am I waiting to clear codes? It involves pumping the brake pedal rapidly 10 times. I am still waiting on my front abs hubs, so my calipers are free and clear, and I don't want to pop a piston out of a bore accidentally.

Yes I have hubs I could temporarily mount, to mount the brakes, so that wouldn't happen ... But I ran out of project time today. Real hubs will be gotten tomorrow, so it made sense to wait.

Brake signal line relocation may not have been necessary -- but now I can get to the ****** without removing a seat and upside down gymnastics.

 

You don't actually have to pump the brakes. Just engage the brake switch 10 times

 

Yes. Thank you. Yes.

I am aware of this.

Thank you.

 

I hate it when this happens..

 

Brakes are bled, I think. ABS hubs installed, everything is torqued, etc.

I've been through the "hit the brake pedal 10 times < 10 seconds" process several times now, and the ABS fault hasn't cleared. Do I need to drive the car to get it to actually reset?

We're taking a museum trip to DC tomorrow, so it will be July before I can drive it.

 

IIRC its hit brake pedal 10 times < 10 seconds. Then car off, then remove diag jumper. then car on.

 

Did that a couple of times. Light stays on with diag jumper off, light flashes code with diag jumper on.

I'll mess with it when I get back.