I forgot you have hydraulic lifters and the valve lash did not need to be set

I changed to SUB so lash had to be set...just not by me lol

More Parts
 

I was on vacation for a week but excited to find all this stuff when I came back.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cf99277062.jpg

EBAY GV Lip -- I just like the look

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...00431a011d.jpg


Fab 9 350HP intercooler -- did this for ease of mounting truthfully. Should do the trick.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2763ad1e9a.jpg

A couple of basic additions to round off the FM silicone pieces.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...484ffbfc10.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cebbbd8f8b.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ffe106ad1a.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...27163366bf.jpg

Pretty excited the driveshaft showed up. The rest of the transmission swap should follow soon. Im hoping there are adapters for the BMW transmission and the Getrag diff because as this thing sits its not a direct bolt on. I assume thats the case but its not super clear yet lol. Ill wait and see what shows up.

I'm glad you're back. We need to get your car together! Track days are being wasted.

Can you learn the art of casting and make me a manifold?

If your trackspeed manifold is delayed a third or fourth time then I can loan you my spare Flyin Miata cast manifold so you can at least get a few days in this year.

Whattaguy!

Ok Im writing this for serious advice lol. The theme here is my manifold is delayed yet again...now November or something. Im getting a little disenchanted with the engine portion of this due to the constant delays. I know people say its worth the wait but I really want to drive my car. Im not too enthusiastic with just piecing things together as a temporary fix because I'm ---- and don't want to get everything in just to have to change it around when the other parts eventually show it up. Im seriously considering doing what I mentioned in Psyber's thread and just selling some of my pieces including the newly built motor and putting a K20 in this car. I like dealing with David a lot. Soooo the thought being calling David and seeing if he has a subframe available or if that has to be manufactured. If that has to be manufactured then Im not sure its worth the effort at the moment. I fully realize that this may not speed things up even if he does have it available but Id like to move forward. I would just run the car as a NA K20 then add a turbo at a later date. Any thoughts...anyone want to talk me off the ledge here lol. Im not very patient and this is becoming super frustrating for me.

no way in the world your car would be ready even by next year if you changed directions now

Reason? Im not sure it'll be done by next year as it sits.

Because I've yet to see a single person here, minus maybe mr Kmiata himself, do that type of thing in a couple months, much less quicker than that.
I've nothing at all against a K swap. But to think you can do one in less time than have a mani sent to you in November, is just dreaming.

The issue is that he's convinced that it will not show up, even in november.

i know it will show up...but when has become a mystery...Look I know the idea is sorta bozo and I'm not claiming I could bust it out in a month...I just am tired of the constant delays...I mean reality is that even when the manifold shows up that this will be a gremlin fest. This is the first car I've ever built and I most certainly am still learning so with the delays on top of that I just threw it out there...it's about the principle of it too. Obviously the reality of me changing is low...just venting. Always nice to have people talk you off the bridge.

The answer, like most things, is... It depends.

I 100% believe that the K20 will be a far more interesting platform, and it's certainly capable of far more than the BP. Will it be ready sooner? Probably not. Will it deliver far more than the BP? Yep.

So it depends... If you just want to drive the car, stick with the BP because that'll happen sooner. If you just want to feel like you're making progress, and progress towards a better platform, the K will be better.

The k is badass. David's company car is absolutely friggin wonderful. If I were building a car today, no way I'd build a BP.

Having researched Kswaps very indepth, I don't see why you couldn't get a K20 running in the car by end of November IFF you had the time after work and on weekends to work on it and the money to buy it all right now. It's really not that complicated of a swap. The wiring harness gremlins have been worked out, base maps exist, parts lists to make bulk orders exist, etc. Nothing behind the trans needs to be touched if you're just wanting to get a K running in it.. swap a subframe out, drop a motor in, figure out wiring (the longest part), and send it! I've seen people complete LS swaps in as little as 8 weeks, a K swap is cake compared to that...

Sorta what I was thinking but Im new to this so I know I personally could not do it...that being said Im just going to carry on and get everything together and probably just wait on the manifold. Im curious to see what this motor I have will do but after its for sure demise I may just sell the current subframe and put the K20 in. I may start collecting the parts for a K swap including sourcing a motor and acquiring the subframe because the more I look into it the more I think I want to put one in the the car. That way when the time comes I have the parts and can just put it in...that will get rid of the downtime of waiting for shit to show up. Perhaps by that time I will have a little more knowledge to help me dive into something like that...especially if I plan to turbo it. Thanks for all the words. Im just frustrated. I ordered the part in July.

The Trackspeed kit was originally a September delivery at time of order or am I thinking of something else? I thought you originally said September on the turbo kit. I think these were in regular production since a while ago. Is he mad at you or something? Lol. Did your check bounce?

Only good checks here...I have ones with kitties printed on them.

That's dedication.

A brand new aftermarket crank angle sensor ended up being one of my gremlins. Random cutting out. Second hand OEM sensor swapped back in solved it.

Also, sounds like you have a problem that would easily be solved with a second project car to house the K20. :-)

Work on the k20 car while you wait for bp parts. Drive the BP while you wait for k20 parts. Drive the K20 while the BP is broken.

Lol

I mean, it looks like you have piles and piles of parts that need to be installed. Get to work.

:dunno:

Maybe I missed the part where you had all that stuff on your car already. I usually install the manifold and turbo as almost the last 2 items. Every time I have to wait for a part I say to myself, what else do I need to do before that part gets here. The parts are almost always ready first, not like you're waiting for piston rings or something.

Come on man, we all want to see this thing go.

I'm not sure what i would do in your case. I like Andrew and i like his parts.

But BPs are gross. Like really really gross. For real.

Ahh-kay ahh-kay, I C ow dis is gonna be mang.

Hey man i'm living this currently. I still haven't touched the motor in Hater for this reason. I'm paralyzed between the easy and expensive button, which is keeping the BP. But that's gross. Or i can go with more expensive and more work on the front end, but not have a gross motor.

So naturally, i leave the BP in the car unopened and get stressed out as it slowly eats itself and blows every seal it possibly can.

Sounds exactly like my mentality at the moment. :brain:

Point taken...Ill get to work.

Crossed my mind...im always looking at cars. I came off the ledge though Im still frustrated...transmission kit should be here soon...plan is to get that attached and Ill get the engine in the car. Most of the parts that are sitting here need to be fitted with the motor in the car. There are odds and ends for sure but most require the motor. Im going to have sixshooter help me cut the hood open for my vents. RyanG told me he was beyond mortified so Im looking forward to shitting my pants when we do that. Ill quit bitching and carry on though.

Just swap the motor...ease your suffering.

Cutting up a body is always a "what the fuck am I doing" moment, especially things on the hood haha

Says the man with experience!

Joos guys don wanna lising to me mang, das-ah-kay, das-ah-kay. Say ello to my leal fren.

I love me a K, and think they're excellent for track miatas, but to me a n/a 4 banger powerband on the street is fall asleep at the wheel boring. I'm sure it's fantastic on the track, but I could care less about that.

So don't think you're "settling" that much. Hop into a 400whp turbo miata and you'll be laughing with excitement ;)

Hop into a 300whp turbo miata and you will be laughing with excitement.

After being use to 3 relatively stock naturally aspirated miatas and boosting one of them on a very modest 7 psi, a 160whp Miata is a honest fun time.. its an exponential curve of fun increasing from there as you turn up boost units..

I think there's more to the K swap than just the power delivery. It's the simplicity of still being naturally aspirated to me.. you don't get the low end torque one could expect from a turbo car (which makes it fun to street), but its also a million times easier to wrench on, is lighter, and has more RPM's to use. If in the future your 230-250whp in it isn't enough, K's have proven to love boost.

Got to ride in a conservatively done 205whp K20 NA at MATG. Sort of changed my outlook on the need for torque in a car so light to begin with.

Also: Torque by gearing.

My 108wtq BP doesn't exactly feel gutless with a 6spd/4.30 behind it.

Yeah i didn't have a fun time with my vents. Took a long time, the OCD in me isn't happy with the results, and i really don't want to ever do them again.

Have you ever taken apart a K engine? A BP is like a lego set compared to it.
And What is there so much more complicated in a basic turbo BP? 2 oil lines and 2 water lines? everything else unbolts with the quickness. I mean, there are legitimately very few modern cars out there more simple than a Miata, and very few modern engines simpler than a BP. I can't even think of many cars easier to wrench on....

I mean I get it, it's the feeling of simplicity and reliability that is the appeal here. And in some ways it is simpler, and in most ways its more reliable, at least on track anyways, I just think most people get carried away lusting after something they've never really even owned. "K SWAP BRO, SO EASY YOU CAN DO IT ON YOUR LUNCH BREAK".........."brb, doing kswap"........."ok done, ready for the track"............

Now I will admit, I also have not owned a K Miata, but I have owned 4 RSX's many years ago, a TSX a few years ago, and various other K cars, so at least I speak from some sort of personal exp.

In the future, after OP finishes his epic BP build and enjoys it, I would LOVE to see him build a boosted K :D

and the joy of constant 2-3-2-3-2-3-2-3-2-3-2-3 shifting on any autox course and 5k rpm buzz on the hwy.

had 6spd-4.10 on my msm and hated it. Much happier with my current 5spd 3.9 and 240whp

I don't autocross, and 5krpm is like.... jail time and rubber hose beating on the side of the highway. ;)

My car isn't a highway car to be sure, but it's not due to RPM. It's quieter at the 4200-4500rpm cruising rpm than it is at lower speeds and 3000-3500rpm exhaust wise, though. :)

I have taken apart both. Although I have not owned a K powered car, I have owned a turbo miata. the K is internally more complex, but VTC and VTEC which bring that 4 banger into the 21st century will do that and the reliability has been proven on the systems.. Overall I'm not trying to rag on turbo BP's, they aren't bad by any means, but you have +2 oil lines, +2 coolant lines, charge pipes to route, an intercooler to mount, a standalone without OBD2 capability to program, heat from a turbo to isolate away from your brake master/lines, a need for inconel studs, a coolant re-route to do, etc.... which will leave you with something like this:
http://images.sportcompactcarweb.com...ata+engine.jpg

Now compare it to this..
http://www.engineswapdepot.com/wp-co...4-1024x678.jpg

I know which I'd rather work on...neither are really that hard to do

That said, I don't want to intrude on OP's thread. I think his turbo build is awesome. I had issues with my turbo setup on my Miata on track and admit to having a bad taste in my mouth about going down that path again with all the incentives out there in the Kswap if your end goal is ~250whp.

Interesting predicament

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f894f64f0.jpg

The ID 1050x injectors i received do not fit correctly. The electrical plug interferes with the exhaust manifold and causes them to tilt off perpendicular. As you can see they tilt up causing them to be off center and not line up with the fuel rail. I did the google search and someone on miata.net noted this and stated the upper and lower adapters are not correct. I have contacted ID to see if they can send me the correct adapter. Comparing them to the stock injector its clear that the electrical adapter is too low on the injector causing it to interfere. Ill keep you posted as to their response but the fuel rail install was halted.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...417ede2936.jpg

With the intake manifold off you get the idea. The electrical component clearly interferes when the injector is in the correct orientation and angle. Guess we shall see.

you can't rotate them to point to the side?

the 1050's are definitely smaller/shorter body than the previous 1000's, but I don't think it's a deal breaker. but I've only installed the new 1050's onto other cars so far

*edit: or maybe they sent you wrong size, even shorter ones.

I tried...they still interfere with the manifold. If you compare the earlier pictures of my injectors with the older ID1000 you can see the difference.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d09cd1c51.jpg

I borrowed this picture of the 1000cc

These are mine

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7c8679bc43.jpg

You can see how the electrical adapter is lower

EFR + EBC = as much like a K as you want it to be, minus a bit of top end rpm. With more mid-range. I have limited my car to 200 ft/lbs, and it was phenomenal at Laguna this past weekend.

Just wait on the manifold. Build the car. You are almost there. You don't like it after a month or two, sell the whole shebang and go K.

They are telling me they should fit if pointed 90 degrees towards the firewall...I've tried without the manifold on and the manifold wouldn't go on so I guess I'll try it with the manifold on to start...seems like if it does work the fit is going to be super tight.

So with the intake manifold in place I was able to get the injectors installed. Here's the picture of the exact angle they have to be to work...apparently ID is aware of this issue but they just don't care. So this is the solution.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6b00d8a39.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...868c1fb14d.jpg


Managed to get the rear housing for the QMAX reroute installed. Nothing to complicated here...even for me.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...50a5dbc489.jpg

Also got the Skunk2 installed. The studs were still in the intake manifold so rather than use all 4 bolts they provided I just used the studs that were there. Should work fine.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9b7a77a62e.jpg

Going to work on getting the coils made tomorrow and get them installed as well. I received the email about my transmission kit shipping so hopefully sometime next week I have that and can get it on the car and get the engine back in.

I wouldn't worry about the injectors too much. I have run my Flow Force's several different directions, and while I'm happy that the connectors all point down now, I am not convinced that it actually make any difference in real life performance. I do think the connectors pointing down is the correct orientation for my dual cone injectors, but I was able to run just as fast with them pointed back, as well as about 10 o'clock.

Did you get them from 949? I wonder if there are medium length ones that would work with flow force adapters.

Yes 949. I called them and they noted this is their solution. Whatever. They are in.

They will work fine.

My injectors have always pointed to the side. It is very tight in there but the car drives just fine.

Im looking at doing something different with the dash gauges. I've been doing the google search but haven't found a super clear answer to a question. Is there a semi easy way to change the fuel gauge to something other than stock? Im thinking of changing all the gauges to a more focused track setup but still want a fuel gauge.

Went to do the coils today but had a hiccup.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...88456705f4.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56e1d68ff5.jpg

Contacted Sadfab and he noted they had this issue on 99-00 heads which mine certainly isn't so not sure if the valve cover is different or what. No worries -- he's taking care of it and sending me a new one that fits correctly. Its things like this though that make me tell others to start with an unmolested example so you don't have issues like this. Most certainly not anyones fault just shit that happens I guess.

To keep making progress got the fuel line mounted under the car

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...227659e50e.jpg

Mounted up my interfooler

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bae97e95d.jpg

Secured the EGR delete plates and plugged off the fuel rail where the stock FPR would go.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4d4d80bbe3.jpg

Got the sandwich plate for the oil cooler mounted as well as my engine mounts.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0c3886571.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...44b6435ba5.jpg

Running without the support bracket on the intake manifold

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...942f13812a.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69334ef264.jpg

Sixshooter helped me with a giant saw to modify the A/C bracket. I cut out part of the lower bracket for increased clearance for the turbo oil drain. Makes more room and doesn't alter structural integrity. Im happy with it. Wish I could say this was a first choice preference but reality was the drain was basically hitting the bracket so modifications were a must lol. Hooray for fuck ups.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c274a2a8c.jpg

Im pretty sure I'm going to order an IQ3 for my dash solution. With the transmission swap speedo issues and the plethora of sensors I think this will keep it the cleanest. I just don't want an A-pilar and center console full of gauges so I think this will be best for me. I will likely steal aidans look with the IQ3 in the center and the AFR and Boost Gauge on either side. Everything else it appears comes from the ECU to the IQ3. For the speedometer I need to figure out how to get a VSS signal to the ECU or just use the GPS speedometer. Not sure what to do on this...what I know is purely from reading so Ill have to dive further into this. Also need to figure out the fuel level gauge since I want this to work as well. Will likely order the IQ3, my seats, and harnesses this week.

I think the NB style output from the BMW transmission will work with some of the fancy dash displays, but don't know anything about the capabilities of the one you are considering.

If this transmission has a speed sensor on it I surely don't know where it is. I thought BMWs got their speedo signal from another source. I may have to swap out the right front knuckle for an ABS knuckle. Then wire an ABS sensor to a Dakota Digital box and send that VSS signal to the ECU. Then I can send that to any variety of speedos.

My what pretty nuts you have. Where did you get such pretty nuts?

NAPA dorman nuts

Most BMW's get the VSS signal from the rear diff (newer models with active ABS sensors and CANbus use the drivers side rear ABS knuckle). Only electrcal hook up to your trans will be the reverse lights. It's a simple two pin connection.

I ordered an ABS hub off of EBAY and plan to run the ABS signal to the ECU through a Dakota Digital box. That should do the trick.

If your car did not come with ABS, you will need an ABS upright as well to mount the sensor.

--Ian