Once you use a nice butt-splice with a nice hand-crimper, you will wonder how you survived without them.

For the price might be worth ordering some and seeing the difference. Im totally new to this so need to see the difference. Your point is well taken.

Duplicate

A nice small heat gun is supremely useful for wiring as well. I had one already from model airplane days, but I saw this one on clearance at a local dying Radio Shack store, and picked it up for $10. I'd pay full price for it. The reflector allows you to get both sides of the connection without acrobatics. Also, it's hot enough, but not too hot.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...with-reflector

So Im going to start the harness tomorrow and am looking for some advice. The harness on the 95 has several things connected. Im not sure everything in total but for sure the O2 sensor and injectors are. I have PNP adapters for my ID 1050s but the injector clips on the stock harness are broke so they do not hold. I have ordered replacement pigtails for the Denso plug. My question is do you all recommend taking the harness apart and trying to separate things out or just cutting the broken clips off and connecting the new pigtails in as well as just wiring the wideband in to the existing harness. I think that would be the easiest thing to do but I am open to some suggestions here--again this part I really have little clue on.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ecc292941e.jpg

Just a reminder picture of what the stock harness on my car looks like. I wish this shit was all separate so I could just clean up each individual section but the bitches are all wired in together. Again just looking for suggestions and a little guidance. My pigtails get here tomorrow.

My personal experience from wiring my ABS into my current car, having the original complete OEM harness w/ABS from the first car -

Taking the harness apart sucks. Sucks balls. Sucks like a Nickelback coverband marathon after a 3 day bender and there's no more beer.

I would cut off what you don't need and replace with what you do need and leave the harness body otherwise intact. The OEM harness wrap is ... robust.

Mainly quoting so I can reread your analogy the next time I need a good laugh - but I couldn't agree any more.

The only reason to open up the harness is if you are making major changes. Don't create more headaches for so little reward.

You can lop off the denso female injector plugs and splice in EV14 plugs. You can cut apart the pnp connectors that came with your injectors, or I have heaps of EV14 pigtails. The only good reason to keep the original connectors is if you plan to go back to stock at some time. Somehow I get the feeling that that's not something you plan to do.

Got zero done during the week as work killed me but this guy showed up on Thursday. One day shy of 4 months for everything to arrive. My 3" exhaust should be here soon from Enthuza.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...230457b195.jpg

Started the wiring process. Got the new injector clips wired in. Overall pretty clean and the clips aren't broken like the stock ones so thats a plus.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7bf8a78cc6.jpg

Also changed the wiring arrangement on the LS harness so the fit was a little better. Again not a wiring pro but I think it came out ok.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...afcab0ed73.jpg

This is whats left over so I have to figure out how to wire this into the miata harness. Any pictures or assistance on this would be a plus. Ill do a search to see what I can come up with.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c95b298b73.jpg

Got these mounted tonight. Obviously not my design but Im happy with the setup. Looked nice in Aidan's car so I straight stole it. I will be re-reading his post on the dash so I can start the wiring process on that. Sorry its slow...just taking my time so the wires look clean and I am happy with the routing of things. One thing I have noticed on the FM big fuel kit that is sorta annoying is that since the FPR is in the back I have to run a vacuum line to the rear of the car which sucks monkey balls so I need to figure out the best way of doing that. I don't like the idea of vital rubber vacuum line running the length of the underside of the car so I may see if there is a way I can run it inside the car for most of the way on the passenger side and just drill a hole behind the passenger seat to mate it to the FPR. I dunno. This is one of those times that had I known what I was doing I would have ran two fuel lines all the way to the front and just mounted the FPR under the hood. I may end up changing it in the future but for now Ill just run the vacuum line.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b3d50a1b0.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f46033f74c.jpg

As I said this is the hardest part of the race. Just doing all the small shit. Sometime this week Im going to start putting fluids in the car and will bleed the clutch and brakes. The tires have been mounted and balanced which is nice. Ill need to spend a day just going over as many nuts and bolts as I can just to verify the torque. The problem with touching so many parts of the car is trying to make sure things aren't missed. Getting closer. Im happy with the way she is coming along. Just trying to learn this wiring shit and not pull my hair out.

It's really coming together nicely! I'm at the edge of my seat for the first drive video.
Also, your photos are beautiful. If being a surgeon/mechanic doesn't work out for you, maybe photography?

Started mounting the Downpipe

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...44f281a7c5.jpg

Had to cut the shelf slightly for it to make the turn. Also had to beat the shit out of the tunnel to make it fit as well.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...173f5a1a02.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94b764e272.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4f09f7aa2.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4027266abe.jpg

After the first part of the downpipe went in I hit a bit of an issue. The transmission mount is in the way of the second part of the pipe.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ce3b5893d3.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f79053223.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...96514a6e62.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b9afc9e284.jpg

So this is a bit of a snafu...Going to have to figure out the exhaust situation. Definitely going to have to modify the pipe though. It clears the transmission fine but the transmission mount is clearly in the way of the TSE pipe.

I have decided that for this build to truly live up to its thread title there must be much more carbotanium involved. Do not disappoint me.

Also can't wait for this motherfucker to run.

Man, if I spent 2000 dollars for a downpipe and manifold, I'd be PISSED if it didnt fit perfectly.

good thing he didn't spend 2000

Oh, i thought this was the tse kit, sorry.

carry on

I thought the TSE kit was a "no cut" design.

I figured the tail end of the downpipe would need to be cut off or otherwise customized to work around the transmission mount but the rest of it is a surprise.

Are you sure you ordered it for a Miata?

I'm not surprised with the transmission mount that a little modification is required. TSE can't plan for that obviously. As for the other part not sure. Reality is that it didn't slide right in that's for sure.

I'll help take a look at everything, including the wiring, next time you aren't stuck at the hospital on a 24hr long shift (who the hell schedules people that way?). Best wishes on the cardiac surgery this morning. Text me when you want to work on the car next.

It is annoying--there is plenty of space next to the transmission. The problem is the bends on the downpipe are off...they are too shallow so it couldn't clear the underside of the firewall. Right now it still touches the underside of the firewall even after bashing it in so I'll need to modify it a little more then put the heat shielding on. Its 1400 for the manifold and downpipe and 4 months of your life.

Trimming the parcel shelf seems to be a 50/50 thing. The DP fits Acamas with over 1/4" to spare, but I had to trim on Rover a bit. If needed, it's 30 seconds with a flap disc.

Trans tunnel clearance could be the trans, could not be. I have seen a couple of cases where there was a bunch of interference inexplicably. My best guess so far is that there seems to be a whole bunch of variance in the footwell. The DPs fit Acamas with a mile of room and I've done several other NA and NB installs with no issues, but there are also a few guys who complained about clearance around the footwell. It's something I am aware of, but it is not a common problem, and I have yet to put my hands on any of the cars that have experienced the fitment issues (none are local). I regularly interact with the owners of 6-8 local cars running my kit and none had any of the footwell interference issues that I've seen.

It is equally as likely, based on how much the parcel shelf had to be trimmed here, that the BMW trans is wider, which forces the rotation of the DP to sit closer to the footwell and parcel shelf than it otherwise would.

As far as timeline, I'll take the flak for that. Tracy happened to be one of a number of unexpected orders in the late summer during what is normally a very slow period, and it threw off my inventory planning by a few months. I try to time re-ordering so that the last kit sells on the day the new kits arrive, but it can be hard to do with low-volume products and lumpy sales. Mea culpa. Most items in the kit are back in stock now, with DPs expected to return to stock by the end of the year.

Sixshooter came over and helped me get the harness situated. Got the coils wired in to the stock harness. Right now everything setup for batch firing. Honestly Im going with I think it'll be fine and right now since I'm retarded with wiring this is going to make things easier. As I learn I can always change the ignition and fueling to sequential later.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bfbe902313.jpg

This is where Im going to put my oil temperature sensor. Can anyone verify that this is the delivery line to the oil cooler and not the return. Im not sure which is which on the sandwich plate and I want the oil temp to measure before the cooler.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2187979d74.jpg

Started wiring in the dash...god help me.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba12cd1c79.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a4b66c126.jpg

Just wire it to sequential while you've got everything out in the open! You're still waiting for a few things to show up, right?

I thought batch vs. sequential didn't make a difference unless you are running like 12000 RPM? I can't quote the source on that and make to representations as to its accuracy.

I agree with ridethecliche. Wiring projects are 60% taking things apart, 30% getting up the motivation to do it, and 10% actual wiring. Do it right now while things are already apart and you have to do it anyway.

For most cars sequential fuel is pretty nice and sequential spark is unnecessary. For this car, maybe both are needed... dunno.

Incorrect. Noticeable improvement even at low power levels

Either it lights or it doesn't, amirite?

Vlad, I'm going to need some penis shaped drawings dyno plots on this. If I'm wrong I want to be sure I'm VERY wrong, lol.

BRB reporting every single one of your posts. How dare you question anything I say, peasant. When I go back on my word, you don't get to question what I do, you worship my existence or ban.

The injector/coil harness is easy to get to if he decides to snip two wires and extend them through the firewall later, or now if he wants. I think the d585 coils will be plenty strong for 400+whp at 7500 RPM, but what do I know.

Are you referring to sequential fuel? OP is wiring up coils in batch, which is fine

It's fine, sure, but seq is moar bettar, and he seems to be at a point where doing it better is relatively low effort

Sure, but just the act of firing the coil one extra time towards the end of the exhaust stroke when there's nothing to combust in the chamber shouldn't alter the operation of the engine. Have you experienced otherwise?

I've experienced blowout past 20psi with LS coils before. I can't say for sure if it was due to batch or not, but since he's not in a huge time crunch and likes to do things the right way the first time..

It's double the duty cycle on the coils. In OEM applications they're maxing out around 25% duty cycle (5ish ms dwell with a 6K-ish redline, sequential so 20ms between sparks), if you batch-fire them with a 7200 RPM redline then that goes up to more like 60% (same 5ish ms dwell, but only 8.3ms between sparks). That's a lot more heat to dissipate. I dunno if it's actually a problem, but it's only a few minutes work to run the extra wires and that seems like cheap insurance to me.

--Ian

Yup. Would batch-fire AEM Smart Coil/IGN-1A and not worry. Would not batch-fire GM coils.

I do. And I don't think I'm alone.
At what rpm would they not have 4 or 5 milliseconds to charge?

Not sure. I don't maths that good. If i'm using GM coils, it's because they were cheap and used, and i'd want to take as little chances as possible. If i'm buying the correct GM coils new oem, i'm buying IGN-1A coils instead.

And if i'm starting from scratch, i'm going sequential, not batch. Because why wouldn't you? :)

Mostly, i'm just a paranoid pansy.

OMG IS THIS REAL LIFE?

Made brackets tonight for the Oil Cooler...Looks like this.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08c725c0d4.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e35b04b2d2.jpg

Fits Perfectly under the front bumper. I am going to cut the plastic piece in half and make sure all air flow through the bumper channels through the cooler. With this mounting looking up from under the bumper all the rows of the cooler are exposed and there is a nice gap on top of the cooler for good flow. Will also make additional brackets for the bottom once the plastic pieces are added. Also made some good progress on the dash.


Pretty excited with the way its coming out. These dashes look far better in person than a video can show. Special thanks to Aidan who's post on wiring this bitch was crucial in making sure I didn't fuck it up.

What is your ducting going to look like?

Like this.

Exactly. Ill probably use foam on either side of the cooler around the plastic piece. Otherwise the inner upper portion of the bumper is completely open. When you look up all you see is oil cooler. With this the lower pressure above the cooler will draw the air across the cooler. Ill take a picture with the bumper off when Im done.

Are both wires on the ABS sensor signal wires?

I want more dwell on my ign1a's, so switching to sequential while my MS is out. Need to change a jumper in there to enable the other spark outputs.
Just sayin'

The ABS sensor is a reluctor, it produces an AC waveform between the two wires. One of them is grounded inside the ABS computer, and the other one is the one that it uses to read the signal, but AFAICT it doesn't actually care which is which.

--Ian

It took a lot of measuring and cutting and welding but we were finally able to make the downpipe fit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...125_105724.jpg

But seriously, the whole thing looks like just too much space between the upper V band and the bend downward. If it was roughly half inch further forward it would have cleared everything just fine. I guess we're just going to have to take a big hammer to the support shelf structure and to the footwell area beneath it because it doesn't fit there either. Or we could cut a half inch section out of the pipe and pay somebody to reweld it neatly and not have to hammer on or cut the chassis at all.

Some of what you see in the pictures has already been hammered substantially.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...126_161126.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...126_161230.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...126_161254.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...126_161135.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...126_161200.jpg

Put the hammer down and walk away from the car. :hahano: IMO this has definitely arrived at a cut-and-weld point. I bet you could cut just after the v-band, get the dp swaged for a slip fit over the v-band side stub, and then tack it in place with an on-car fitment. The swage would allow for both a forward placement and some adjustability for clearance/fitment at a (minor) cost in efficiency.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f76503418c.png

Mine?

Darrell (miataman04). Though your car also had issues going past 21 if I remember correct, right?

Sixshooter or Tracy, can one of you throw a cell phone with an angle finder app on the downpipe and measure its rotation angle in relation to the turbo? Phone should be perpendicular to the car about in line with the #4 exhaust port. DP should sit at a 33-35deg angle down from horizontal.

So I did both measurements for you...So by your reference the downpipe is rotated too far out. I rotated the DP to the point of contact with the transmission and its at 54 degrees at that point. So clearly the distal portion the transmission is wider than the narrow portion on the miata box. The problem is as follows. I tilted the phone to the 35 degree angle and with the DP that I have that angle would literally put the DP into the engine block. Even with a miata transmission on the car the DP would be unable to make that measurement. The point of contact at 54 degrees is the middle of the transmission but here are two pictures with the DP at the 54 degree mark. That distance between where a stock miata transmission would mate to the block and the DP is 1cm. There is no way to get 20 degrees more rotation with my current DP even with a stock transmission in place. Maybe a few more but not 20. So I guess takeaway is that the TSE downpipe follows the narrower portion of the miata box to make its turn around the firewall. The challenges of changing stock parts. But just FYI as stated even with a stock miata box there is no way for me to get to 35 degrees with my current DP. So basically I need to modify this DP. Oh and the distance to the steering shaft at 54 degrees is 3 inches.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1d4df04982.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa0247b775.jpg

My bad, I meant 35deg up from vertical, which is the same as 55deg down from horizontal. There's no way you are 20deg off.

The close-up of the photo next to the reference of the adapter plate is very telling, though. The downpipe is designed to wrap TIGHT against the block/trans at that point (maybe 1/8" max clearance). The instructions use the language "as close as possible to the trans without actually touching it". Yours is at least half an inch away (the thickness of the adapter), presumably because the body of the DP touches the trans elsewhere further down. It's totally possible that it may have interfered slightly with the footwell anyway, but there's also no doubt the BMW trans is exacerbating the fitment issues here.

I've flown out of town for business. Sounds like you guys are making progress. I'm only the "helper" here anyway. Good luck.

If you think cutting the flange off and shifting the DP forward in the car would help with fitment, I'm happy to send another flange to be welded on so you don't have to try to reuse the one being chopped off. Shoot me an email if you want one sent out.

I may take you up on the the flange. Worst case I can have the performance shop here just fab a custom DP for this setup as I have it. Having the flange will make that easier. The price of putting full custom shit on a car. I already passed the word on to David at KMiata that with the transmission swap your DP isn't a direct bolt on. He had inquiries on the matter. I don't think much modification will be required plus I have to modify the second piece anyways to make it clear the transmission mount. I appreciate it. Ill send you the email.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...60e41da271.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f5a0b1325.jpg

Got the ABS sensor mounted. Figured out where the cable went on a car with ABS and went straight through the stock location. One thing I figured out on the Racepak dash is it has the ability to read either a VR or Hall Effect signal. This is highly convenient so I don't have to use the Dakota Digital box to send the signal to the ECU and then from the ECU to the dash. One less step and makes things cleaner.


Appears to work when spinning the wheel by hand so just have to calibrate it when the car is moving. Also will be able to calibrate the gear selection as well so the dash recognizes what gear you are in based on speed and RPM. If this does all work like I think Ill have a Dakota Digital box to get rid of lol.

Started wiring the sensors to the dash as well. Going to run the wires along the firewall and through the hole on speedo cable once occupied. Picked up this heat sleeve from Summit to wrap around all the wires as they run behind the turbo. Ill fabricate a heat shield but this stuff is pretty nice and just one more layer of protection for the wires. Also put one on the turbo oil feed as well as the clutch line as they are both really close to the exhaust.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...65e6c62a3f.jpg

Also got my other two gauges wired up. Im really happy with the way things look. I really like the Defi boost gauge. Pricey little bitch but I like the way it looks and Im a tool like that.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe10c8925c.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...215d338d43.jpg

Progressing with the wiring overall. Need to wire in the wide band O2 as well as the trigger wheel sensor. Trying to make everything clean and tidy so the wiring is taking some time. Pretty happy with it. Im off this upcoming week and am planning to have the car running very soon.

Can anyone help me with the pinout on the MS3 Basic from track speed? Im hoping Andrew sees this. On his site there are instructions and most of the wires/colors are described but the complete pinout doesn't really help me because the harness is covered so I can't tell what wire goes to what pin. Im trying to figure out which wires on the pigtail are CANH and CANL. Any help would be appreciated.

Correction:

Any help figuring out what all the wires are. The instructions on track speed don't really correlate with the harness I have. The wire colors aren't matching. Some are there and some are not so Im not sure how to go about figuring out whats accurate.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eefbc700d9.jpg

Most of the colors should match, but not every DB37 has every wire. 01-05s won't have a separate VVT wire, for instance. The white/black twisted pair is CANH/CANL, white is H, black is L.

Emailing me is always faster than waiting for me to reply here