Appreciate it. So on mine if there isn't a brown wire for example my harness isn't setup for launch control?

Can’t help you on the wiring schematics, but damn you have made progress.

Reverant sent me the link to the instructions. Ill just post them here in case someone else needs them down the road. It has the included column with the wire colors to match their function. It is year specific for a 94-95 1.8.

https://www.mslabs.gr/instructions_b...7_9495_140.pdf

Wiring almost done. Getting close to being able to turn this bitch over. Drilled two holes next to the A/C lines for some of my sensor wires and the vacuum line.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...77fca6f8b0.jpg

Also ended up using the original holes for the cruise control and my old speedo cable for the rest of the wires.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...80c9e704c6.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d2192e5e0c.jpg

Ended up putting my fuel pressure sensor here using an inline sensor adapter.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1604f9108.jpg

Also put this together tonight. This is the only thing that isn't wired in yet. Need to figure out what Im going to put to each switch. For sure the dash will be wired to a momentary switch to change screens and clear warnings. Will also do launch control, a cool suit, and I guess Ill see what else I can come up with. Its taped for now...Ill glue it in later.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...962fa66640.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c3360af4a4.jpg

Need to do a once over of everything and make sure the connections are snug. After Im reasonably sure they are Ill put fluids in and start figuring out the MS setup so I can try and start the car. Getting close...just want to make sure I don't miss anything and fuck shit up.

I was one of David's inquiries.

Here's what I had to do to get my pipe to fit between the footwell and 6 speed Miata trans. This is before I took it to the shop and out it in our press to flatten it even more, downstream of the bung. Too bad I already had it ceramic coated inside and out....

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...167e39d56b.jpg


Even with it like that and beating the corner by the gas pedal in, I still only have an 1/8" or so on each side of the DP where it clears the trans and footwell.

Once I nuke this 6 speed, I'll have a new DP custom fabbed to fit around the 5 or 6 speed BMW trans and provide additional clearance.

That seems super odd to have to bash the downpipe that much. I mean mine would have need a little firewall mod with a stock transmission but I wouldn't have had to bash the DP in like that. Andrew is sending me a flange so I might just have the shop build me a DP to full 3 in exhaust so its clean all the way back. I hate having haggard up shit just to make things fit. That way I can sell the DP if needed since I haven't modified it. Do you have pictures of your turbo and DP installed?

I'll be posting more pics in the build thread in the next couple days, I'll post a couple here as well. Clearance is definitely terrible. Andrew did say that few footwell are the same and he had heard of another instance similar to mine.

.

Does the FM kit or MKturbo kit have the same 50/50 clearance issues? Kind of disappointing from the most expensive manifold downpipe kit out there.

It's probably asking a bit much to expect Savington to have designed his downpipe to fit with a not-yet-released-at-the-time BMW transmission swap from a different vendor. :)

--Ian

Totally agreed!

Moving forward, it might make sense for the two companies to test fit each other's stuff as there's likely going to be some cross over in customers and it would make everyone's life better.

You can't account for every little thing the end user does though...

Oh, sorry, i thought there were clearance issues with mazda oem transmissions... carry on!

More like 3 in 50, and one of those unverifiable due to the transmission variable. Not a great rate, but hardly the 50/50 you claim. No surprise coming from you, though - you seem to have a knack for highly negative exaggerations.

It's hard to be positive with this community, every single vendor I purchase from has sent me defective, or incorrect parts at least twice. (TSE, 949, V8 Roadster, Goodwin, FM, miata roadster, MSlabs)

I'm the village idiot, pessimist.

I dont have access to your sales and customer documents, I just threw the 50/50 out there, my mistake.

The transmission isn't the point of contact on this one. That part clears fine all the way to the rear mount, which was expected.

This trans is not appreciably wider than the 6 speed just looking at it. But maybe my eyecrometer isn't properly calibrated.

.

I want to point out, as I mentioned to a few of us at MRLS, I always try to put the downpipe as close to the engine/transmission as possible, touching even. I am thinking of adding bracket to my downpipe to bolt where the stock one bolts on to the bell housing. I always want to put it 1/2 way in between, and get a rattle, then I remember I need to move it as close to the engine as possible. Not that this will help Tony's situation.

Im not making a big stink of it since my car is like the opposite of stock and I like any reasonable individual understand that when you modify the shit out of things what once was a bolt on may no longer be that way. There is no way for Andrew to account for all the changes I've made to the car and I would never hold him to that. If I had a stock transmission would it fit?...maybe...we will never know so I'm not going to say yes or no on that. As it sits with a TSE kit and BMW transmission on my car the DP is not a bolt on. Thats no ones fault or truthfully anything to make a big fucking stink about with him directly. I wish it was a bolt on--would save me some time and money but whatever. That being said it is reasonable to think if the consensus is that his kit is the best (TBD in my situation) and people are likely to be shooting for high HP with his kit that the BMW transmission option may become a more regular occurrence on cars with his kit. I would never expect this because frankly it isn't anyones responsibility but my own to make this shit fit but it would have been nice to get a little vendor support/offer of assistance on this one as Im sure this will come up again on other cars as people build them. Either way the car will get a DP that fits be it modifying this one or just having the local shop fabricate a new one.

I'm way late on this, I was using denso coils and we were seeing issues at 26psi. Until I pulled the turbo I was having no issue at 24psi gaped a stock 37 and running whatever FM sent me with the kit. (forgive me lack of knowledge its been a while)

Caved to peer pressure and went back and wired the car for sequential ignition since its already in pieces and running the wires wasn't too difficult. Starting to figure out the wiring thing. The nice thing about making a Miata the first car I've built is that its pretty easy to figure out with a little reading and guidance. Thanks to all those who have fucked shit up in the past and found better ways so I don't have to suffer. Plan is to try and start it this week...just waiting for Sixshooter to be free so I can borrow his timing light and have another set of eyes look over the vital shit before cranking her over. As far as I can tell though she is ready to try and start...excited and nervous. Guess we shall see...

For what it's worth, I had the exact same issues fitting my TSE EFR6258 kit with a stock 5 speed trans. I had to cut about 1" off that parcel shelf looking bit behind the downpipe, a chunk out of the hood support bracket to avoid hitting the wastegate actuator, and I had to bang the shit out of my trans tunnel, and this is after rotating the downpipe about 20 times and grinding some excess material off the side of my NB transmission. It still hits under hard cornering. I've given up trying to fix it and just chocked it up to there being 10lbs of shit in a 5lbs bag, and truthfully my Racing Beat header hit in the same spot.

:likecat: given to OP for being logical and realistic. I can't tell you how many times I moved a perfect-fit exhaust from one car to another of the exact same and had fitment issues. There's a lot variables to contend with even on a stock car.

That's a great perspective, +1 for you. Yes, I'm sure both of these products will be paired together many times in the future.

Don't mean to sidetrack your build thread but I'd like to be able to collaborate with you and Andrew a bit. The DP doesn't hit the trans body or adapter plate, but there is interference with the rear trans mount, correct? Does the pipe actually hit the mount, or is the mount just in the way of logical exhaust routing? If we can have a formula for making this combo work well together, that would be a win for everyone.

:likecat::bigtu: Would be the best setup out there hope this happens!!

On my car no matter what I would have had to cut a piece out of the shelf for the DP to make the turn off the turbo...Took 2 minutes with a grinder no big deal. The area in question is say mid BMW transmission. According to the install plans for the TSE DP you have to be able to rotate the pipe as close to the stock trans as possible so it doesn't contact the underside of the shelf or drivers side trans tunnel. The problem is where a stock transmission gets narrower after the housing the BMW transmission doesn't get as narrow so you can't rotate the pipe enough to not have a contact problem. Its really close but just not quite there. As far as the transmission mounts they are just flat in the way on mine. Either the DP would have to come lower under the car or I have to modify in a sorta U piece to go under the mount and back up to mate with a stock cat back. Is that clear?

Yup, that makes sense. Not much we can do about the body of the trans being wider. Does it seem like the DP could just be cut in the middle, rotate the lower section, and welded back up? If so, that's easy, and it would also be easy to fixture so they could be accurately modded for customers in the future.

Honestly from what people are reporting I think the easiest thing to do is just know going in that if you plan on adding this transmission to a TSE kit or doing them at the same time like me that you might either just have to forfeit your existing DP (or modify it). If you are doing it at the same time what I would have done is saved the money on Andrews DP (not that it isn't nice) and just ask for the flange. I think its reasonable when you go off the beaten path like this you just have to assume that you are going to have to fab some one off parts. My concern for you guys is that if there are these differences in cars that make 100% universal fitment a problem that you could end up with some irate people if you claim total bolt on and it isn't. Im close to 7000$ on your parts together so in miata land if you claim 100% universal fit at that price and it isn't it could be a nightmare. A disclaimer might be in order saying look...you add this transmission you'll have to have a custom downpipe and exhaust made. I honestly don't see that as a problem. I mean the DP from TSE is 675$ and Im reasonable certain I can get one made for that or less with a custom 3" exhaust added on for some amount of money. Having it done custom so you ensure a perfect fit I dont feel will cost me any more in the long run. Again no one's fault. I might be the first putting this shit with his kit so just a learning curve. From my experience thus far and from what I'm learning I think this would be the route I would go if I had to do it again.

This build is incredible. I've just binge read the 20 pages so far. Very much looking forward to the coming updates.

-Lew

excited for you and the first start.

So this happened


Fired almost immediately...only minor leaks to contend with...base timing set. Pretty excited.

"Video is unavailable"

Fixed I think

Congrats on the first start!

Is that metallic noise the downpipe clunking lol.

Correct...open down pipe with clank makes her sound like a beast

Various pictures taken today attached.

The fitment of the downpipe isn’t quite as bad as I expected, but I see where there could be improvements to make it fit better. Both straight sections need to be a tad longer. That should give a little more space from the body and transmission. I fully expected the shelf needing a trim.

The build just looks fantastic. How are you tensioning the air conditioning belt - just shimming the ac bracket with washers? I'm wanting to do the same thing, so any tips would be much appreciated��

i had the same ac setup, you just put washers on the 4 bolts that hold the compressor. usually takes 1 or 2 washers on each bolt to make the belt tight.

With the larger crank damper I have a perfect size belt...no shim required

Ryan G took a picture of the belt number I used

Woo! Congrats on the first start!

Congratulations! Sounds like a race car. :D

Excellent. Epic build, but you knew that.

Does anyone running TSE kits have pictures of their heat shield setup?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0fcb1d40f.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...853bb2e164.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ee3bc4da21.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...68fc7cd420.jpg

Thats awesome thank you...did you make it?

Nope, had a guy at my shop make it up for me when he did my intercooler piping.

Congrats on the start-up, sounds great.

@sixshooter didn't you melt a dipstick as it was on the manifold side of the heat shield (or no heat shield)? Asking for general input on that.

Why yes, yes I did. I vaguely recall the little plastic droplets from the melted handle getting into my oil pump relief valve. I was fortunate enough to end up with a completely new built motor out of it (because I had to build a completely new motor because of it). So if you know anyone who has a stock bottom end that wishes to replace it with a forged bottom end I highly recommend not heat shielding the dipstick tube.
:rolleyes:

I actually cap off the dipstick tube these days and leave the dipstick in my toolbox. I'm not checking the oil while I'm out on track so it really doesn't need to be in the tube then. I only check it in the paddock or driveway.

Because of course that's something that would happen to you.

I may have missed it but which rear end did you decide to use?

I'm contemplating the ZF5 swap for my car as I only stopped at 313 ft-lbs and 338 HP as I'm nervous about the drive train going higher, but not sure which gear ratio would be best for track only.

i put in a getrag 3.42 with the V8 roadsters kit. Fits nicely. Unsure of how it feels since I haven’t driven yet.

Getting destroyed at work so progress is slow this week but added this to the bay. Looks nice. We'll see how it works.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c39fb24837.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d68d81466.jpg

Bled the brakes and added more fluids to the car. Put the fenders back on and mounted the wheels. She has a nice aggressive stance. Waiting to get in to the shop so I can have my downpipes and exhaust fabricated followed by an alignment. Pretty happy with the look.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e56667bcb0.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89c7cee98.jpeg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...05b5929910.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1d48a30386.jpg

It sure is clean. :bigtu:

I have progress pictures from yesterday as well.

Looks great guys

Sounds a bit like my big cam car at idle