Troy could fit, which is good since he doesn't have a car of his own to ride in, lol.

Seats are awesome in the car...sorta.

I love the way they feel but Im going to need to have custom brackets made. Im need to have the tunnel cut out and modified and ultra low brackets fabricated so the seats are practically on the floor. That seemed to be the most comfortable position for me. The PCI brackets are nice but they put this particular too high and forward for me. Reading more closely through older posts this seems to be the common way to install the ADV in a miata. No biggy...Ill just add it to the fabrication list when I drop the car off for the DP and exhaust.

Made some progress today...got these put in

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fd60be3de3.jpg

Happy with the look. Problem is the fucking hood still won't close over my waste gate actuator. I switched back to the original also because the dual port actuator is larger and neither quite fit. We fucked about with the vents and contemplated even cutting one out but part of the actuator still hits the goddamn hood. Ive sent an email off to blackbird to see about getting a set of his lowering engine mounts because the way it looks unless I want a weird fucking hole in the hood the whole engine needs to sit lower for this to have a prayer of clearing. Guess ill see. Tomorrow going to see about fucking about with the seating mounting to get my seats to fit comfortably in the car. Right now its just a battle of inches trying to get things to fit. Getting closer but just some annoying fucking shit at the moment.

There's plenty of room if the exhaust manifold was designed better for the EFR to fit beneath the hood. It's a real shame you spend so much money on a bunch of that doesn't fit. I'd be really pissed if it was my money. So the downpipe was $675 and doesn't fit and now we find out the exhaust manifold puts the turbo parts through the hood no matter which actuator you use.

Sorry to hear about the trouble. You will persevere, I know it.

Note to self...dont buy expensive kit that doesn't account for variances in cars...spend money on custom fabrication that guarantees proper fitment.

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...it-59007119007

Going to try this bracket first and see if this puts it low enough...not sure how this will work with a turbosmart dual port but it lowers the waste gate actuator and moves it back which is a higher portion of the hood. Normally you buy a short EFR actuator for this so I may have to modify mine by shortening the rod. Hopefully this works and I can move on.

I might grab that bracket just to have the actuator sit closer to the turbo. Looks funky sitting so high, but maybe temp issues having it closer to the turbo?

On the NA, you should be able to notch the hood structure to clear the standard actuator, or use the short actuator with no modifications to the hood at all. If you have Singular vents installed in the standard NA location, you can just un-bend the 2nd louver down from the top on the left side and it will clear the actuator without any issue. The louvers remove the part of the hood bracing that the actuator contacts.

Replying separately to this because it deserves a separate reply.

We can't go lower with the turbo and retain P/S compatibility.

The downpipe issues may be a result of the BMW trans throwing off the clocking rotation off the turbo, it's impossible to say. Tracy and I discussed it on the phone weeks ago, I sent him a replacement inlet flange free of charge so he can have his DP tweaked to match his specific setup. If he's had further trouble with it, this is the first I'm hearing of it.

The short actuator clears the NA hood with zero modifications, so no, the manifold doesn't "put the turbo parts through the hood no matter which actuator you use." That's simply a false statement.

As with all of my customers, I'm willing to provide whatever support is necessary when issues crop up. I've talked with Tracy at length about his specific application and tried to give ideas and direction on how to make everything work, given the constraints of his specific combo of parts. I continue to be willing to email or talk to him about this and any future issues he may come across.

Without the brace on the underside of the hood the actuator is hard up against the hood interior and bending it upward. The only way to have any clearance between the actuator and the hood is to cut a little hole in the hood and have the actuator stick out in the open air. This applies to both the standard actuator and the dual-port actuator. Bracing is gone. The hood louvers actually create more of a problem when present because the perimeter of the louvers sticks down further than the sheet metal of the hood itself which is already touching.

No offense, but have Tracy get in touch with me. I reached out this morning via email. I'd rather not play telephone game with a third party.

Prolly a stupid idea but would shimming up the hood at the firewall via the hinges help with the clearance? It might be a CR fan boy mod but it would definitely be a more cost effective route

No. There are several NAs running with standard actuator setups that fit under the hood skin. I'm working with Tracy to figure out why his car isn't doing what we expect it to.

Ppf at too severe of an angle?

I tried reading through your build but I probably missed it. What engine mounts are you running?

Don't have a PPF with the BMW transmission. Also running the 949 racing engine mounts.

Clearance, shmearance - you just need moar hood scoop bro

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c96a016e34.jpg

I'm running the same engine mounts. As the actuator is nearly centered over the engine mounts i doubt the angle of the motor/trans would affect it that much.

Once I get my axles from V8R I'll be installing the BMW/getrag system as well. I ordered a new hood since I folded my old one over my roof. If it offers better clearance than the stock one I'll let you know.

What hood did you order?

Ccp fabrication. Ryan @ Singular told me about them. It's where he got his glass doors I believe.

Na hood with the naca headlight cover glassed over. So it will be a straight flat hood, no openings except for the ones I want (5 singular vents). Paul @ CCP said the bracing under the hood was 1/4" tall and there are only a couple of them. I'll send pictures when it comes. If the hood is identical, I should still have to notch my louver to get it to close. We'll see

And you use the stock waste gate actuator correct?

Need some help with my wideband. I have an LC 2 and it calibrates fine but the afr isn’t communicating with mega squirt. I have the wideband selected but all I get on MS is 7.8 where the gauge is reading 14.5. Any ideas?

The innovate has 2 output wires. Brown and yellow I believe, and the setting on the calibration are different for both.

One is for the correct default in megasquirt, the other isn't. I ended up logging into the innovate gause and made both outputs the same and then input those in a custom wideband option in megasquirt. I probably made it twice as hard on myself, but it works perfect now

Thanks for the follow-up. I re read the instructions and the brown wire is the wrong output...even though it says to use it. I just wired both the gauge and the ECU off the yellow wire and it seemed to work. Im retarded. Probably should do what you did and log in to make both outputs the same but this will work for now.

As an aside pulled the car out of the garage for the first time in 6 months. Looks good. Taking it tomorrow for all the exhaust fabrication. Drove it quickly about 200 yards around my complex. No funny noises or anything other than an open downpipe. Only thing I noticed was neutral was sluggish. As in the car rolled slowly backwards with the car in neutral and the clutch also in. Not sure if its the new brakes or what...

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ee7f412f1.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...496014a8ca.jpg

Also got this piece in...will cut out the transmission tunnel and have this welded in. Found a company that makes them for SPEC miata. After its in will have the custom seat brackets made so my seats fit better in the car.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17beb634eb.jpg

KMiata shift knob showed up too. Thing is nice and heavy. Could kill someone with it. I like it.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae45370c6f.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...84df12efb4.jpg

Not sure on the specifics of the trans you are using, but there may be an issue with it if there is too much resistance while just spinning whatever the output shaft is.

Do you know for a fact the clutch is fully disengaged? It doesnt roll forwards atall, or maybe check if ms registers any load.

How is driveshaft alignment?

Brakes may be dragging, could clear up after bedding (im assuming this hasnt been done)

Diff might be set improperly

Axles new too? Could just need a high speed run or something to clear up.

Rear wheel bearings installed correctly?

Just spitballin, maybe it helps.

Heads up on the Amazon coils. Show correct part numbers and all but my dwell needs to be at 4.5 otherwise I get issues. Toby who tuned my car said the dwell on the d585's should work fine at 2.5, but I was getting blowout. I also originally used eBay connectors but cylinder 3 sometimes needs a jiggle to work. Ended up buying a set of 8 coils with factory harnessss off eBay. Made a new wiring harness out of the factory GM one and hope to not have any more issues.

It's the brakes. Don't sweat it until it does it after you driven it a little.

Car at the fabricator to start all the work...pretty pumped to see it on the lift.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...90538146fe.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d779f8b1d.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...141dd21c27.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5122dba089.jpg

Make sure to take lots of pics of the final exhaust DP/exhaust routing so I have some ideas ;)

No problem

Did you go back today?

Nope...he's great...shot me a update text and sent some pictures.

Man this is exciting. I'm glad to see all the progress.

your camera broke. this is unfortunate.

Ha...when I first saw those pics I thought to myself: "Man, I hope Braineack doesn't see these pictures...he'll have a brain aneurysm...".

As noted...wasn't my camera...photos sent to me

His eyes broke, he can't read. This is unfortunate.

everyone knows I don't read.

Any update?

Nope...he's welding lol

Still welding?

I hope not. Fabricators around my area are $90+/hr. A week of welding would be like 3,600 for an exhaust lol

There is a stack of cars at the shop it was taken to.

Muffler...

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4b34b5cfe.jpg

Purdy

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e79a9a54eb.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6d2e818f2.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b4f4f4048.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c0f2c71804.jpg

Driver seat in...even with the seat mounted all the way on the modified tunnel it touches slightly...but the door closes so it should work. He's my height and notes the position is perfect. Seat isn't tightened down but looks good. Close-up shows how bad that window trim really is lol...might have to change those things.

New pictures of the downpipe. Looks pretty damn awesome. Most of exhaust will be done tomorrow. Likely will pick the car up early next week. Super pumped.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aecab50c42.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94d1462052.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6341b87e55.jpg

that's a really good lookin downpipe

Is he going to do an oval/flattened pipe under the transmount? Having a flange where it's at is asking to get it ripped off on the track. If my flange were there it would be below the frame rails

I don't think so...where my mount is Im pretty sure there is room to get a 3 in pipe below it yet stay above the frame rails...its not like a ton of room but room nonetheless.

Have him put a straight edge on it once you install the clamp. I'd bet money it's below the rails. Maybe it's cause my frame rails are flattened from grinding on curbs.

When I get mine redone I'm going to have him put the vband where your second weld up from the flange is, tucked up and safe and then ovalized under the trans mount

Fingers crossed...Ill keep you posted

Hows everything going?