^^ yeah! that's what I want with my full weight piggy fatso big man street miata!

I would need 410 whp, to match that absurdflow cars power to weight ratio. I'll have half of that. Yikes.

you loose. :loser:

Haha yeah. I'll probably not even break 2 minutes at laguna. I'll still have a blast doing it, though.

Ill be happy to go under 1:50. Gotta set goals.

OMG. Just install the blower and set a laptime.

If you want maximum area under the curve, rotrex is not for you.

If you want instant spool street boost cred, rotrex is not for you.

If you want to take your real life driven hard car to the next level, Brotrex is for you.

What is important, is, at a track day, "did you drive all of it?" With a rotrex, you will, and you will for the most
part embarrass corvettes. And 911's. And, depending on the day, 911 GT3's.

There is no more reliable power adder for a hard driven miata than a Rotrex. Period. Full stop. End of Story.

makes me want rotexness. But I trust in Sav to make me not break down.

Mobius, I'm as antsy as you! I have to wait on my trans to come back, then for an ecu. I'm just really bored. SOrry for all the shitty posts lately. And yes, I drive my car as hard as possible when I can. I think I'll be happy. I just am dumb, and bored, and cant help but to gossip.

MiataMan, I didn't like that the tse kit hasn't even been completed yet. I tend to wait a few years to see where a kit brakes down. I wouldn't have even done the rotrex kit, since off the shelf kits are mostly pretty poorly done, butthen I saw TDR's ROtrex kit, and all the weak points of other kits had been addressed. The rotrex itself had been proven years ago. I just happened to like TDR designed brackets. anyways...

Step 0. install safety equipment (Hard dog roll bar, and fire system)

Step 1. get trans back in.

Step 2. put new MS3 in, and pray that it works this time.

Step 3. If it does, V and I will tune ID1000 injectors to run the car naturally aspirated with little to no issues. Then we will tune the barometric pressure curves, which will take longer to test, log, and retune.

Step 4. Install Big brake kit (looking at V8 roadsters radial mount fronts, dual master, and goodwinracings version 3 rears, with OGracings help picking parts.)

Step 5. install TDR intercooler (and tse front water plug while the coolant is drained)

Step 6. install rotrex oil cooler on the drivers side and engine oil cooler on pass side, while the bumper is off for the intercooler install

Step 7. install rotrex

Step 8. tune again with V



I'll stop after completing step 2 if the trans and MS take too long to get here, that way I can still make it to MMRLS. I'll do the rest of the steps when I get back to Sacramento, probably with V, and others who show up lol.

That car hustles from 5 to 6. Damn.

Andrew has been doing this for years tho. So basically, he's trouble fixed every issue we would have as costomers. He just has to manufacture the tested kit now. And even if I do have an issue, I'm sure he will back his products. So I'm not stressing.

Soooooo......

I'll at least have something unique to show off at MMRLS.

Quad D2S projector bi-xenon headlights. :D

Gotta get that light output yo. 10000 lumens through the stock projectors without a highbeam JUST WASNT ENOUGH. maybe 8000 effective lumens.

18000 lumens with a high beam is more like it.

Pics or it didn't happen

OK, one more then I'll stop hijacking the poor man's build thread. This was the pinnacle of Theseus, Summer of 2011, with the full 350whp on tap and enough cooling system to run full sessions in 100*F+ ambient. 7400rpm, 6-speed+3.909s, and it hits the rev limiter on the front straight at WSIR. Spins the tires for 300ft at ~95mph at part throttle cresting the hill at T6 before touching 140mph on entry to T8. Shifts so fast the 10hz TPS feed from the AEM into the Racepak wouldn't register a throttle lift (aka sub-100ms shifts with a stick and a pedal). Even today it sounds insane to me. I was 22 and built that car in my garage.

If you cant pass them, blind them :D

:)

See new post!

Honestly keep hijacking, it has given me some footage to enjoy!

Refer to me as little girl, please.

More for seeing animals running towards teh road, but yes. also, I want people to be driving towards me, oncoming traffic lane, to think to themselves, "what is that" is that a ferrari, or some other very expensive car?"

only to be sad and disheartened when the see its a teal miata.

You've already got that part, I believe it is the universal reaction to Teal miatas :)

Power don't mean shit. It helps, but you gotta know how to drive. I believe SM @ MRLS is something like 1:46.xx? My personal best is 1:57.03 on 4~5 year old NT-01 when I can get free of traffic. I don't get enough wheel time and I don't feel I have appropriate safety equipment so I'm not comfortable really pushing myself.

<-- Owns 300 HP Miata, drives in M@MRLS C group :giggle:

Sav- that was a hell of a car! This winter, use some of that magic on my car.

Mobius- haha, that's why i bought it! theft protection in the paint!

E02K- I'm in run group D, it was the only one open for both days. But according to the rules, it was the highest i could join, I don't have any seat time at MRLS. My exhiliration overcomes my worry of crashing, so I tend to push myself quite hard. I'll be on fresh, tire rack heat cycled A7s (or R7's, i didn't get a reply on the tire hierarchy thread) unless I cant get the blower installed, then i'll be on fresh RE71Rs.

How much track time do you have in total?

around 120 hours on my 220whp NA impreza. 2300 pounds with me in it. I used to regret selling that thing, but now that I have the miata, not so much. Some how, it turned in sharper than the miata. It was a pretty incredible, simple car. Mid-ohio, Grattan, Gingerman... my favorite was grattan. decreasing radius off camber turn, a jump right before a hard right hander... exciting!

Good.

EJ25? Did not know people got power bumps that nice on N/A Subies.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...532760c3d1.gif

One of the highest N/A 4cyl subies ever. Not because it was such a great build, but because no one does it.

Mild stroker, 2.65L 12.4 static compression, 2005 big runner intake manifold that was extrude honed, some canadian cylinder head and subaru exhaust guru, I can't remember his company name or his lol, but he makes the BEST headers for subaru. 321 stainless 4-2-1 like twice the price of Killer B, Uh, link ECU, cams, PURE tuning spent like 10 hours on the dyno with it.

Oh, full time E85.

I demand a dyno plot.

^haha, I might still have it, I'll look through my stuff I kept from that life later tonight.

Ah, it was techworksengineering that made the headers, and rotating assembly.

I might have pictures of the piston crowns, they were freaking thick.

Tech Works Engineering is Subaru performance, upgrades and aftermarket parts

Wow, his pricing has dropped by like 70% since I had the subie. It looks like he only uses 304 stainless, now.

THE SHIFT FORKS ARE BACK FROM ROUSH!!!!

ONLY A FEW MORE WEEKS :(

Picking up a 1998 Jetta TDI.... owner was meticulous, mechanically the car seems quite good.

VW Jetta TDI, 1998, excellent fuel economy!

that's a really bad idea.

^Why?

Seems like he replaced everything I would.

He replaced all that crap cause it broke. It will break again cause those are raging piles of crap.

I know cause my buddy used to be a huge fanatic of them. It was truly mind blowing how much crap broke and he had to replace over the years, over and over and over.

Granted, his was a vr6, but same everything else. Those car blow chunks. Period.

I would never get one.

Ugh, I'm just dying to have transportation. Seemed like a good choice. I probably would only keep it a few months.

If you want a cheap beater that's fine, there are tons of options. None of those are a vw tho. The amount of failure and retardation in design, and failure and retardation in materials, execution, and assembly is mind boggling.

That car is like an epic trifecta of failure.

I love my 04. 46mpg cruising at 70. Drivetrain is decent. But only has 3 working doors, 3 working windows, 1 heat seater. Etc. But it was dirt cheap. Ill probably sell it before it breaks 200k though.

Buy a used civic. Cheap, reliable, holds value like crazy.

one sec.

I want a turbo diesel though. Honda doesn't have those.

But they still get 30+ mpg. And si's are almost fun. Friend just bought an ep3 si. And although it's butt ugly it's kinda cool.

If you want a reliable turbo diesel get a 98 Cummins or a 7.3 power stroke.

^they go for 20,000 dollars. I've been looking for a manual trans 2000 7.3 powerstroke for like two years now. The market prices are just too high to justify.

Forgot you are from Utah. It's like brodozer capital out there. You can get decent ones out here for 10k if you look hard.

I'll own one eventually. Will probably be under my '72 body.

if you find an unmolested, good body, 6 spd manual trans 7.3 let me know.

holy poop.


2000 F250 7.3 6 Speed 4X4


I might fly out and pick this up. its exactly what I want, minus the dent in the body. Even if I don't keep it, I could EASILY sell that for 15,000 here.

Do it. Be the decider

The dude says someone put a deposit down on the truck. He is considering it sold. :(((((

I was like "I am prepared to pay higher than asking price" no response yet.

To be honest I'd buy that truck blind at 10k, even if the title wasn't clear. That is a hell of a deal.

I've been looking every so often, locally, about once a week for a 2000 F250 manual 7.3 (4x4 is preferred, but not essential) that exact truck, not even stock SELLS for 20k. Like I've contacted sellers after they sold their truck, and asked what it sold for. Anything less than 20 grand has a lot of miles.

99mx5 lives in Las Cruces. Maybe he could go look at it for you, if the current deal falls through.

thanks, I'll pm him

Some guy bought the truck for 500 dollars UNDER asking price. I was blowing up the sellers phone the day before he sold it offering 10 grand. What a moron, he deserves to be in debt.


Anyways....
Working with V8 Roadster for a full brake kit.

Modified Master cylinder brace (they are adding more bracing for me)
Dynapro Radial mount front calipers
2 piece AP racing curved vane smooth face front rotors
Tandem 1" master cylinder, looks like remote mount, not sure yet
2 piece Coleman rear rotors
PFC pads (one set for street, one for race)
Got the amsoil 600 series brake fluid, should be enough.

no ducting, i'm gunna see how the rotors and fluid do first. These brakes are good for a 500whp miata, so they are pretty overkill.


Also found my flash cards for the corner flags, gotta brush up, it's been like 4 years since I've been on track.

Haha, basically.

Here are the flash cards...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18565f9dc6.jpg

and I have looked through everything I own, and I cant find anything on the impreza other than this...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a26fb392a9.jpg


This is a dyno plot after a tuned length intake was added, still conservative tune. I'm running the built engine, E85, but not the modified big runner intake (makes an enormous difference on all subarus) or the cams or the aggressive tune.

I guess I'm kinda curious why wouldn't you run ducts?
Or you do plan to, just later after you test without?
It's no scientific discovery that they help tremendously

I just figured the brake setup should dissipate heat way better than the stock setup, and not a lot of people run the setup without ducts, so I'm curious.

Yeah, with the PFC race pads, if I experience fade, I'll just bolt on the (i forget the company) ducted backing plates everyone runs.

My hunch (and of course not really based on any concrete knowledge) is that my car won't have enough power to overheat the brakes.

You're probably right, that's a massive setup, just figured why not go all the way
(that's what she said)

Found these... I could rivet them to the oem under engine plastic panel, maybe.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3627

And this...

Singular Motorsports 2.5" Brake Duct Package for Miata

Hehe, I just think I need to focus on keeping it simple, then making small changes here and there.

Sometimes, you gotta go 3/4 in, to respect her pain levels... i mean, the thread title is "Italian Stallion" for gods sake.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...495b922aa0.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd62e14738.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...37712757a8.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b08d352206.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5c48bd4270.jpg

Holy hell! How did you find those? That was my senior picture album!

Brake ducts will extend pad and rotor life

It just seems like a hassle. I'm keeping my foglights, where do I put the ducts? Would the bottom or sides of the oem undertray draw any air?