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My 2001 Italian Stallion money pit build
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So I thought I'd finally share a picture or two of my miata.
I made a poor decision buying this particular, it had so much wrong with it, the original owner did zero maintenance, and somehow shifted like a moron, because the synchro are messed up. I did water pump, timing belt, plugs and wires, coilovers, swaybars and endlinks, brakes and lines, clutch slave, master, and line, and put in a flat top manifold with phenolic spacer. Still needs clutch (slipping) new trans or rebuild, megasquirt, a/few gauge and wideband module, maybe injectors and a tune on e85... Super fun to drive now though! I love when my whole body feels the cornering forces, it is ecstasy. anyways, here it is... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448253858 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448253858 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448253858 |
:party:
I can take more pictures of it in my back yard lol |
Seeing this makes me almost want a hardtop for my teal 01.
That looks pretty good. |
Welcome, thumpetto007. Check out the Miata Gallery and post up some pics!
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Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1285849)
Seeing this makes me almost want a hardtop for my teal 01.
That looks pretty good. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448413440boner by jestmaty, on Flickr |
Originally Posted by jestmaty
(Post 1286529)
Not to thread jack, but a little fuel to the fire
How much lower does that front lip sit than no lip at all? I've never scraped the front before but I think i would scrape for sure. I don't like scraping/hitting the car on anything, and I'm really not that low, but I still bang the frame support on stuff occasionally. |
It's only like half inch lower. If you hit the frame on stuff at your current height, you need to learn to drive more careful lol
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I could do without the trim, it's just more places to hold moisture and salt. I would have a hard time not buying a teal hardtop though, that looks really good.
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We're in CA.
404: salt and moisture not found |
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Moving this to Build thread section so I can upload pics of the various stuff it's about to get done
@thumpetto007 Finally started working on this thing a little bit. 1st thing first, I drove it and confirmed that the synchro's in the trans are fine, and feel like any other 6sp I've driven. The clutch, however, is completely toast, and I think there's a leak from rear main seal and/or trans input shaft seal https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598541https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598541 OP bought a FM happy meal with 949 racing light flywheel, some OEM replacement engine mounts, and a rear main seal. Some parts are here already, some on the way still. OP is also having me install the Rev built MS3 basic with wideband module and AEM Uego for him, as well as tune the car, and do a bunch of other random things. codes the car threw before I disconnected the factory ecu https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 wideband install found a spare plug to cut open adn replace secondary o2 with wideband so it looks OEM :) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 routed the wiring OEM like as well, and mounted the connector behind the heat shield so it's protected https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1453598402 |
Damn, I got sexually excited when I saw that flywheel.
I bought that Slave cylinder in August 2015 from FM... yeah. real quality piece. I think my compressor has been leaking this whole time, could it be from that? Thank you for spending the extra time cleaning everything and doing a quality job. |
the leak at the compressor is likely from the bolt that holds the bracket that holds the compressor. if it's loose oil will get out from the block and run down the engine.
the slave was hosed, it was sticking, and the boot was torn, and it looks to have started rusting. replaced it with the local auto parts brand as you can see from the rear main pics, rear main seal was leaking. took care of that. but it also kinda looked like the half moon seal was leaking a little bit too. Not sure. we cleaned/degreased it and put some sealant on it, hopefully that works. cause I'm not about to yank the oil pan on this thing. the clutch...oh brother. whoever installed it is a moron. bearing wasn't even pressed into the flywheel. and as you can see the clutch disk is completely trashed, and so is the pressure plate and flywheel. all good now had to adjust under the dash for the new clutch too. per FM instructions. it's all tight now, and engagement point is pretty good. the car drives so much better. revs fast too we were going to fabrication your stealthy maf delete tube but didn't have time. the diff bushings also arrived way late, like late noon, so didn't get to those either. lots of little things to do now, but progress is made :likecat: PS: no more squeaks :D |
WOOOAHHH IT'S NOT STEALTHY IF YOU POST IT IN PUBLIC!! lol
Thank you and the car gods (mostly you) for no squeaks!!! I always felt like trash when I'd roll up, winkin at some chick, and the damn car is squeaking. IT WAS RUINING MY GAME ahem... in all seriousness, i really do troll for chicks in the miata. Were the oil pan bolts tight? I'm guessing it would also be difficult to tell, since the rear main was leaking... lets just hope! I won't be pulling that oil pan any time soon. I bet the car shifts sooooo much better! I cant wait! |
While you were there, did you change the input shift seal? And did you put sealant on the flywheel to crank bolts before reassembling it?
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lucky that pilot bearing didn't fall out...
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^yeah! I couldn't believe it! I mean, I've only owned the car for like 10,000 miles, but I drive pretty hard!
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Originally Posted by btabor
(Post 1303952)
While you were there, did you change the input shift seal? And did you put sealant on the flywheel to crank bolts before reassembling it?
And yes, not sealant but locktite. I put locktite on fw and pp bolts every car |
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alright more progress today.
made some really strong and OEM like steel mounts for the megasquirt. found a spare bottom bracket and used it, and made own top bracket. this is the PROPER way to install this thing (as is the singular bracket, but it's way too expensive), not stupid zip ties like most places tell you to install it. started mockup of mounting brackets https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 comparing the giant MS to small OEM computer https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 comparing ms to oem https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 OEM bottom bracket installed https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 installed OEM bottom bracket https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 modified OEM bottom bracket https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 custom top bracket https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 finally installed this giant thing what a pain in the butt workign under the dash lol https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 installed like OEM https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 routed the MAP line along the firewall so it looks OEM https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 teed together the MS and cruise control vacuum lines so it's clean and simple https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 deleted this ugly cruise control vacuum line that ran across the whole engine bay. pulled stock ecu Then we made the super secret maf delete :likecat: Found a spare MAF at my bro's shop https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 hollowed out OEM maf https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1454827215 spare OEM maf There's still wiring to clean up and route, as well as various random things to do before I start tuning on Monday: like set up the MS/TS/Project, do timing sync, bla bla blah, but: She fired right up :party: |
Woo! Finally, the driveability will not suck for the first 10 minutes of running!!!!
Thank you as always, for taking the time for proper installs and photos! Also for replacing that ugly vacuum line, lol... it was on my list of little things to do! That ecu doesn't change foot clearance, does it? It sure is a big boy. I cant wait to see the gauge install! Oh, and I'm not sure if the A/F gauge comes with different color faceplates, but please use whichever one matches the other gauges best. |
Nice job on the brackets, I will have to fix my vacuum lines too now. I would give props, but I can't figure out how to do it on my stupid smart phone.
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haha thanks.
today we fired her up, syncd timing, and took her on a little drive. Now the tuning begins. 1st order of business is dialing in cold start, it's pretty decent but has a little bit of kickback before it catches |
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Slowly making progress :)
Putting together a decent map for OP to go drive the car tomorrow on to break in the clutch. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455259676 So far everything is going ok |
Nice work Vlad
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Thanks
First the good: Still not done, but it's already making healthy power, at least 10 more than my 01 did. Ignore the bottom it's just reading the wrong output, not actually wideband/map sensor. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455431472 Now for the not so good: We're running into a really weird wideband CAN connection/communication issue: Every now and then, it loses all connection, freezes and just stops working. The TS gauge just freezes at whatever AFR it was showing before it does that, and the car then flips out, with EGO correction pulling fuel and all sorts of wacky stuff cause it thinks it's either rich or lean depending on what AFR it "froze" at. Re-starting the car makes it work fine again. @Reverant can you please help out with this? Let me know what you need, a log, or whatever other troubleshooting. The AEM UEGO and CAN module came pre-wired, so I didn't touch any of the wires, and it works fine when it works. At first I thought maybe wiring issue, but re-starting car makes it work again, so I don't think that's it. Sometimes it actually un-freezes on it's own and works again without re-starting the car. |
Which wideband?
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He bought it from you: AEM uego pre-wired into the canbus module
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Here's a decent representation of what's happening in a log:
same run in all 3 rows, you can see when it's working and hitting 11.8 when triggering 12.3 then it freezes at 12.3 and stays there for the remainder of the pull even when you let off and car is triggering 14.7, it's still stuck on 12.3 and won't move during this time if EGO corr is on it will start pulling fuel and cause the car to run lean, obviously. most of the time, turning the car off and starting back up fixes the problem and it works again. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455498431 @Reverant@thumpetto007 |
Have you installed the ini file for the module?
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hmmm, no.
just set up the MS per your instructions with the .ini file in the instructions there's a seperate one for the CAN module? |
Reverant sent me the instructions for CAN module and .ini file, so we'll give that a shot asap. Also thanks to bahurd for offering to send me his if Rev didn't respond.
Skunk2 throttle body is installed, and we tuned fuel/spark/vvt on this thing. Doesn't seem to gain any more power than the 129 it put down no matter how far you push either of the above 3, just shifts the curves around. I guess that's completely normal though, can't expect an n/a BP on pump gas to actually gain power like the boosted cars :giggle: Car is real peppy now, feels solid, and OP drives FLAT OUT, all day urry day. |
Is OP in doubt? :giggle:
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lol, based on how he takes corners, nope. this car handles like a beast with the RE70Rs and Xidas and other handling stuff. I was like "whoa, slow down" and he was like "I'm not even pushing it"
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:laugh:
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Car looks good like it is, don't put that plastic crap on the side. Very clean car sir! That setup is the best looking NB2 I think. Simple and with a hard top, very clean.
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@Reverant
this is what happens when I try to download the CAN .ini file per your instructions halp? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455754820 all the other settings in my TS are spot on with the instructions otherwise. but I still don't have the CAN .ini file and the car still does this from time to time. |
Bahurd was kind enough to send me the .ini file, thank you sir.
I'll load it up tonight and hopefully it will fix this issue. |
If you're going to be posting this many words, we're going to need more pictures.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1308703)
@Reverant
this is what happens when I try to download the CAN .ini file per your instructions halp? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455754820 all the other settings in my TS are spot on with the instructions otherwise. but I still don't have the CAN .ini file and the car still does this from time to time. |
Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1308783)
Would you mind PMing me the link? I just used the link in my PDF and it downloaded fine for me.
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In know I a month+ behind here, but you can pull the rear main seal housing without pulling the pan to reseal the seal housing. Then just use silicone, no moon seal.
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So the tune is pretty much dialed in. Couple things outstanding:
1) the car takes quite some time to sync timing after startup. it will fire/start, and the CEL is on for at least 5-6 seconds after startup (CEL is set up to illuminate when MS is out of sync). This is not a deal breaker, but kinda weird. 2) since the car doesn't have dual-baro sensors, the only options for baro correction now is initial MAP reading and no correction. Initial MAP reading DOES NOT WORK properly. Something is wrong with the software, causing the car to peg rich no matter what. Disabling it makes everything peachy again. COINCIDENTALLY - the other Rev Built MS3's I've set up all had this same problem. The latest being Gordons (EO2K) which did the same thing, pegged rich any time "initial map reading" was selected for BARO correction. Disabling BARO correction solved the issues. Not a big deal for EO2K since he's only a few hundred ft higher elevation than I. The problem with OP is he's gonna be traveling from my area (100-200ft elevation) all the way up to the mountains (7,000-9,000ft elevation) relatively frequently. We're both a bit nervous about the tune getting all out of whack with such large elevation changes without BARO correction. |
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@thumpetto007 wants me to install the WB into the cluster in place of the dummy OP gauge.
Initial measurements: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456008254 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456008254 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456008254 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456008254 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456008254 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456008254 Has anyone done this with this wideband into a NB cluster? I've seen a couple on NA's, but can't find any info on this for NB. It looks liek both the cluster and the gauge have to be grinded a bit. |
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I really want to do this also, but too chicken at the moment. I believe you need to remove gauge out of the housing.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456014160 |
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Progress :party:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456102382 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456102382 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456102382 trimming will still need to be done to the hole in the housing/bezel, but otherwise it looks like it just might work :) |
Didn't the AEM come with a white face?
Either way, that looks super good. |
Thanks
Yes it does and we will use it |
You rang?
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hmm, can't wait for the final install photoes :likecat:
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This is a cool idea :) really tidy install!
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well that came out damn good. nicely done.
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Thanks
The only issue I need to figure out is the backlighting from the cluster coming through onto the gauge from the sides, since it's not in the housing any longer. You can see it in pics 2 and 3. Might just black out the pointless little led dial altogether, unless OP wants me to leave it as is. |
That wideband install is doap
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Originally Posted by Stealth97
(Post 1310676)
That wideband install is soap
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1306329)
1st order of business is dialing in cold start, it's pretty decent but has a little bit of kickback before it catches
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What do you mean by kickback? Got a log of it?
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i would also like to know how to resolve this. ive seen it on my friends PNPgen 2 and when testing my diypnp
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99% I'm pretty sure it's a decoder thing. I swear I never had this issue when I installed the 36-2 wheel. I'll write a new decoder once I get my car back, and if it works well, I'll send it to the firmware developers to update the main code.
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Great, thanks Rev.
I agree, and was just about to say: I think it's related to this specific/Rev built MS3 basic unit taking quite a bit longer to time-sync, as I mentioned a few posts up regarding the two ISSUES I noticed with this unit. The CEL stays illuminated for at least 3-4 seconds after startup, each and every time, indicating a sync loss. It always clears after the above mentioned few seconds indicating it finally sync'd. Savington/Pat/Jesse, With the last two cars it had a lot to do with the actual VE and Spark maps in addition to the normal startup settings. The 1st 2-3 columns on each table that the car sweeps through on startup, usually 0-1000rpm and 10-100kpa seem to affect this issue. It's still not flawless but much better and almost there on this car. Pat, I tried logging it and it never really captured what I'm talking about. It's something you can feel/hear. Just a tiny stumble midway through cranking. "Kickback" might be too harsh a term, but it's a very mild version of kickback. Too much advance during startup usually causes or increases it, but too little and the car will take longer to start and often will flood, which will cause a rough start. What I noticed on many cars is they usually like between a couple to a few degrees more timing in these areas and usually fire pretty clean at 11.2-11.8afr during crank/fire Too much timing and it will crank longer and eventually flood. Too little and will flood. Same thing with fuel: too much it floods, too little and it cranks longer and eventually floods as well. Finding the perfect compromise is the frustrating goal here. |
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