My Begi S5 Turbo Kit
#141
Update: I installed the compressor inlet tube after cutting the 3" off. I also routed the wire from the original oil sensor wire to the original connector and connected that to the oil pressure sensor on the block.
The LC-1 was a little bit of an issue. I was not sure if I can strip the insulation, but there was no way to connect things without doing that. I am not done with the connections yet.
The last picture is of my attempt to solder a lug to the ground wires of the LC-1. I had a junky solder gun, so it didn't work. I still have to get it done right
I won't be able to work on the car for the next two weeks but I will update with more pics when I get back.
The LC-1 was a little bit of an issue. I was not sure if I can strip the insulation, but there was no way to connect things without doing that. I am not done with the connections yet.
The last picture is of my attempt to solder a lug to the ground wires of the LC-1. I had a junky solder gun, so it didn't work. I still have to get it done right
I won't be able to work on the car for the next two weeks but I will update with more pics when I get back.
#144
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise
#145
I followed the suggestion of the LC-1 quick guide and I did not want to poke a hole in the shifter boot. Along with the turbo installation, I changed the clutch / flywheel / shifter boots... (besides brakes and reinforcement rail), so I don't want to ruin the new boots I installed.
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise
Where is ur Wo2 sensor bung that you needed to place the LC1 under the car?
#146
You are probably right and it's probably safer inside the car... I may change that later. Like I said before I went with the suggested installation on the quick reference guide for the LC-1.
Here is the text from the guide: 1. Find a suitable location under your vehicle where the LC-1 body can be mounted. Using zip ties or other suitable method, fasten the body of the LC-1 device securely to the framerails or other mounting points as far away from the heat of the exhaust system as the sensor cable allows. DO NOT zip-tie the LC-1 by the cables.
#147
I have a couple of questions: I had a 'tune up' a few months before I started the project, including wires and spark plugs... Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? The tune up was done by a regular mechanic with regular materials. I'm still on vacation, but I had those questions on my mind... thought I'd ask.
By the way, I a short cross tube that Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better.
By the way, I a short cross tube that Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better.
#148
I have a couple of questions: I had a 'tune up' a few months before I started the project, including wires and spark plugs... Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? The tune up was done by a regular mechanic with regular materials. I'm still on vacation, but I had those questions on my mind... thought I'd ask.
By the way, I a short cross tube thatsd Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better.
#152
Update: I have everything installed and I tried to start the car. First time, it would just start for a second, then die. I checked all the hoses...etc and I even took off the intake manifold and made sure all the injectors were seated. Second try, I can keep it running by keeping the throttle down a little bit. It runs very very rough and when I let go of the throttle, it dies completely. I tried that several times, same result. I will post pictures of the final setup later, but I need some help on this tuning stuff, since I don't much in that department. I will also ask Stephanie about it tomorrow, but anyone with ideas.. I'd like to hear them. Thanks.
I did gap the existing NGK plugs to 0.025 to split the difference in recommendations (.020 vs .030). I bought new plugs but did not use them yet.
I did gap the existing NGK plugs to 0.025 to split the difference in recommendations (.020 vs .030). I bought new plugs but did not use them yet.
#153
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Check for vacuum leaks on both ends of every single hose and at every fitting for starters.
Check to make sure all of the sensors are plugged in and completely seated. Wiggle everything.
Double check all of the new and old grounds for bright and shiny metal to metal connections. Make sure they are tight if they are bolted down.
It seems basic, but you've had your hands on a lot of different things from under the hood to the tranny tunnel to the interior. Any one thing could contribute to this problem. Be thorough and take nothing for granted.
Good luck.
Check to make sure all of the sensors are plugged in and completely seated. Wiggle everything.
Double check all of the new and old grounds for bright and shiny metal to metal connections. Make sure they are tight if they are bolted down.
It seems basic, but you've had your hands on a lot of different things from under the hood to the tranny tunnel to the interior. Any one thing could contribute to this problem. Be thorough and take nothing for granted.
Good luck.
#154
Finally found at least one problem. The MAF connector wires are corroded and breaking. When I moved them while the car was running, it ran smoother, more movement caused the car to run rougher or stall... I need the MAF connector with 2-4" of wire to replace mine... Anyone has one? Let me know. Thanks