I was at Gesso's house and I didn't want to drip my filth all over his driveway. I'll probably soak it all in Purple Power and pressure wash the **** out of it. Eventually.

Either that or I'll take the time to clean it once I'm forced to upgrade away from my FM1 clutch. I'd like to think 318ft/lbs is completely attainable

 

<p>Psh, why would you waste time pulling and cleaning the engine when you can just pull the trans, swap the clutch and boost away.</p>

 

They've had their FM2 clutch out of stock for like 5 months. They told me end of June and still none.

 

Because working on a car covered in grime is quite possibly the worst thing ever. At least for me. I hate being covered in grime when I'm wrenching.

 

<p>Eh, I'm covered in grime either way.&nbsp;<img alt="Dunno" src="https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/dunno.gif" style="height:15px; width:37px" title="Dunno" /></p>

 

because you're a dirty ****

 

<p>I barely have time to get my car working, let alone keeping it/myself clean.</p><p>G has the patience that I lack. I want my car working yesterday, not in 3 more months.</p>

 

Patience Grasshopper . . . patience.

 

<p>I want it now now now.</p>

 

The plugs are nice, almost too nice for what they are. Also, easily 40+ I think its actually somewhere in the mid 50s? I'll check again tomorrow.

Long term I've been looking at Valvoline VR1 or Amsoil Dominator. Lots of scuttlebutt about the T6 not being "as good as it used to be" so we'll see. VR1 I can get almost anywhere (like my local o'rlys) and Gesso has an Amsoil brick and mortar store up by his place, so neither should be impossible to find. I can also order Amsoil from TSE so there is that too. I've seen a bunch of the Subaru guys say good things about the Castrol, I'm guessing EDGE? Something to look into anyway.


Neither did we! It was very much "Surprise!" and then go buy a drill, on a Sunday. Gesso is a bauce like that though

Oh trust me, I want it running now.

 

I run the Castrol GTX, it's the plain regular oil not even a synthetic!. I run the 10W-30 version. My last motor showed zero bearing wear despite 8,800 RPMs, where last 2 motors on Rotella both showed some wear at only 8,000 RPMs. I know fancy oil is nice, but I think running cheaper oil and keeping it changed more often is not a bad approach either IF your oil temps are ok. It's usually around 22 dollars for a 5 quart jug, but sometimes it's 26. I run a mazda filter.

I'm hoping with my oil cooler I can run the regular oil and it not get too hot at the track. I need to wire up my oil temp sensor.... (is that bad I went through the trouble to install the sensor in the pan, and then made the wiring for it, and never plugged it in!?)

Bit +1 to having a running car!!!!!!! (mine is apart right now...... :( )

 

I'm at 12 psi at hot idle and 40-42 psi at 80mph on T6. I hope 50 psi isn't spec!

 

That is, the turbo part

 

MPH or RPM? One matters, the other... not so much.

 

1k rpm at idle and 35-3800 at cruise I believe

 

T6 is 40-42psi @ 3500-3800rpm? The "rule of thumb" that I've been told over and over and over again is 10psi per 1,000rpm. So tribal knowledge would say that is "okay" but I don't know how set in stone or accurate that is. I can look in my engine FSM tonight and see what it says.

Is your pressure higher (on average) right after an oil change (up to temp obviously) or does it seem to loose a bit the closer you get to your OCI? If you are worried about the condition of the oil, start sending samples to Blackstone for UOA and see if your oil is shearing down or its full of bearing fragments or something. As soon as my break-in is complete, I'll probably start doing the UOA dance. Maybe not every time, but knowledge is certainly power.

 

let's see that blackstone report

 

Wayy to late for that. Or do you mean on current motor? Not a bad idea on new motor actually.

 

We are going to give Jeffbucc something else to lose sleep over; keeping the inside of his engine clean

 

12psi@1k and 40psi@3800 is not good