Not track day because no real room to bring it home. You can drop it by the house any time just leave it inside the gate.

I probably don't have to say this, but inside the gate off to the side so the next person through the gate doesn't step on it. Having children has made me be very explicit

 

The "---" lines means something, you need to look at the sweeping LED. It just means it's below 10.0:1, or above 17.0:1. So in your video, it's showing full lean, or above 17.0:1 afrs.

 

I keep thinking its ecu/wiring related.

I dunno

 

Thanks Josh. Right, that makes sense: The sweeping LED's are on the full lean side when it shows --- so that definitely would mean it's full lean. Thanks for pointing that out.

Vlad, I feel the same way.

Also: I'm noticing a considerable amount of smoke at part throttle and super low boost. Can't tell what color it is, but I'm thinking it's oil smoke because I used a full quart of oil on the trip :(

 

I'm not sure on the nb2. If you dig around the wiring diagrams are out there. I ***think**** the main ground points are: throttle body, driver firewall, passenger firewall/fender ish, ppf, battery neg, probably somewhere else.
The injector grounds and coil grounds are exceptionally noisy and high current. It really sounds like something is off there.

Did something happen/occur around the same time that the symptoms started?

Funny enough I just moved from Beaverton... If only this popped up before the bush brushing I could have helped out in person.

 

Thanks for the thoughts. I need to go through and investigate this stuff.

Nothing in particular happened, except that on the way down and the first time on the way back I had a piece of cardboard blocking off 25% of the radiator on the passenger side. The second time it happened on the way home, no cardboard. Car was running fine, then suddenly sputter sputter.

 

Not sure if the digital AFR gauge is the same as my analog but on my analog gauge, while I was I stalling it, had blinking lights when it'd lose connectivity. It could be your sensor ground strap as well, maybe clean the the connection point to the body? Depending on how you tied your sensor ground into the ECU, it could be your splice, mine is directly into the megasquirt DIYBOB rather than spliced into the factory harness.

 

Jeff:

Those words you used... I do not know what they mean.

I think I need to go back and solder my AFR gauge joints. I used the butt connectors that were included with the kit. I don't think that's he cause of this issue at all but that'd be better.

 

Sorry, I blame my phone for the confusion.

1)My AEM AFR gauge has 2 blinking lights when an error or connectivity is lost. May be a hint at a wiring issue.

2) Your main engine ground wire by your dipstick may not have good contact with the body, you may want to check and see and maybe run a wire wheel over it.

3) As you said, check your connections, and maybe move your sensor ground wire to the AEM ECU, rather than the wiring harnesses sensor wire(depending on how you've wired it up).

Sorry, hope that clears up my garbled paragraph.

 

That helps for sure. I knoweth not what is a DIYBOB so I was thrown off Lol don't blame your phone, blame my brain!

I'll check into all that. Soon. I'm coming down with a cold so I'll just be trying to make the weekend then recuperate.

Thanks again for the help, all.

 

I'm not sure how it works on the MSM, but I know on my NB1 there is a ground on the top of the throttle body, a ground under the throttle body on the bracket that connects the up and lower manifolds together, block ground by the dipstick and more grounds on the PPF back by the diff. I think there may also be another ground somewhere on the trans, but don't quote me on that. I used a tiny stainless wire wheel in my dremel and polished all the ring terminals and contact points before reassembling everything. I think I even used dielectric grease to keep them from corroding up again.

Then I went massive overkill and ran a dedicated 14awg ground wire directly to my block. Crimped and soldered ring terminal on one end, soldered directly to my wideband ground on the other. Two dedicated 14awg grounds actually, one for the LC-2 and the other for the gauges.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that proper solder joints are always going to be better than butt connectors. I also vote for checking/cleaning grounds and soldering connections. Real men use heatshrink tube

 

Had a great drive yesterday with JC and a friend from work.

I am currently hating my +20 offset wheels. Seriously. They look cool and all but they rub rub rub on these bumpy roads turning hard.

Yesterday when it happened I resolved to buy 6UL's as soon as the X9's are available. However, that's going to be around $800 shipped, and then my tires are $120 apiece minimum (RS3's).

In my reading lately it seems that perhaps a bit less grip will let me become a better driver. So I'm thinking since I'm still a noob and I really don't have the budget for $800 wheels, what if I pick up a set of Federal RSR's? The 205-50-15 should give me the tiny bit more clearance I need so my tires stop taking out body parts and a 205 on an 8 should give me a more controllable feel similar to what I had with my 225 RS3's on 9s.

I'm also reading, however, that the RSR's don't put up with track heat well, and I DO plan to do at least 3-4 track days next year, as well as at least that many autocrosses. I'm sure Emilio was joking when he said they ran RSR's at the 25 hours of Thunderhill

What say all of you? I'm liking the idea of $320 shipped for a set of 4 tires and not having to buy new wheels. I'd also love for you all to tell me that I absolutely MUST buy 9" 6UL's and that buying a narrower tire is a terrible idea. Would need to sell the FFDs to fund it.

Anyone want a set of 4 FFDs for $500 shipped? They're in like-new shape, just need to have some brake dust cleaned off.....

 

If you'd posted this a few days ago we may have been able to work out a deal with the 3.63 MSM diff

 

DAMMIT THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN PERFECT!!



Oh well, life goes on.

 

Yeah Emilio's Federal comment was complete old school Russian-style misinformation. They ran Toyo RR's.

 

My personal littany of tire and rim fuckery over the last 4~5 years can be expressed in smilies:

225 + 15x9 = RS3 ~ HPDE, AX, DD

225 + 15x8 = RS3 ~ HPDE, AX, DD

205 + 15x8 = NT-01 ~ HPDE | sDrive ~ DD, AX

205 + 15x6 = sDrive ~ DD

195 + 15x6 = sDrive ~ DD m.net fitment

Currently my 225 RS3 are on 9, 205 NT01 are on 8, and 195 sDrives are on 6. I assume you see the pattern? There is a reason Emilio's sig says "1:1FTW"

I'm going to make a blanket statement that if you are used to a 225 on 9 or a 205 on 8, you are going to hate 225 on 8. If you want 9s, I advise you wait for 9s. Don't run a compromise if you can help it.

We caught SO MANY PEOPLE in our paddock space trying to scope out tires. We left Nittos, Federals, hell even Hoosiers around just to confuse people Emilio is just evil like that.

 

so...tempted.....to get the FFD's

 

Well, I had 225's on a 9 and now I don't like those same 225's on an 8 and plus it's rubbing. I don't think i want to run these RS3's another season, and certainly not on these wheels.

So I either drop $320 and get Federals and run them for a year, then get 6UL's next year (likely what i will do... I'm kinda broke these days)

OR

$700 + shipping for new 6ULs and then another $500 plus shipping and install for proper RS3's. That's just... not in the budget.

Federals for a year, FTW. If Josh can track on NeoGens I can track on RSRs.

 

You should buy them, it'll keep me from hoarding rims

 

Vlad, they'd look soooooooooo sick on your car. Need fender roll though, even with your skinny all seasons.