On your car, fo sho.

 

Mine just popped off with a tug. Fairly sure I was the first one in there as well. *shrugs*

 

Sean is quite dainty. I'm not surprised he needed a puller.

 

I had to go ape **** on mine. No tools though. Bare handed ape **** yanking.

 

Im just a bitch I guess.

 

Wait....I did need a puller the first time, and it was loud too. Now I just go ape **** and it comes off.

 

We can be little weiners together. Wanna sword fight?

 

All of this yanking, tugging, and pulling talk has me a bit breathless.



Carry on.

 

I just put my hands at 9 and 3 and rocked back and forth with a decent amount of force maybe ten or fifteen times then it came off. Car was completely stock, it had never been removed before. Nothing was damaged either.

 

Well yours is a 94, so 3 years less stickage.

 

Plus, you never know when some dumbass PO slammed the brakes and spilled coffee or something all over the steering column, bonding the wheel on forever.

 

Oil cooler hose and hose ends: what does everyone like? fragola? aeroquip? are the cheaper summit pieces worth a ****?

 

An hose ends are like the one thing I don't cheap out on and that's saying something

 

I used these things and the fabric hose they recommend on that site:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3488
Absolutely no issues in a year of use with 10 or so track events.

 

+1 on Pegasus, they have a long standing solid reputation.

 

Depending on what size you need, lots of used NASCAR hose assemblies on ebay. A couple races old at the most. Top dollar stuff.

Side note... I used ebay hose, good us made stuff, and aeroquip fittings.

 

So the little wire stalk was being a *** and not letting the adapter seat all the way.


I tried to just cut the plastic stalk, but the wires are molded to it internally. Then i tried to demold them. It turns out the are crimped to a ribbon strip. Which means you cant bend it more than twice before it fails.


So I soldered a wire to it and made a silicone strain relief.




Which then allowed me to pass the wire through the adapter and to the quick release. I can now drive this car with my work boots on!


So now the car makes this hideous beeping. Im assuming its upset about the airbag. Do we just pull the fuse?


"NRG" rad panel....

I had to bend the lip more and crushed the emblem in the process. It was going to be removed anyhow.


Those sneaky butt ******.


Its a DME, which can be had for $10 to $20 cheaper. lol
Mazda Miata DME Radiator Air Diversion Panel

 

Holy **** @ DME rad panel. Literally just slapping an emblem over the real manufacturer. Wow.



I have the NRG panel lol...

 

Still waiting on a horn button. Youd think I ordered from Begi or something.

I was able to get a deal on redhorse hose and fittings, so thats what I went with. Im very pleased with the quality of these fittings, they are beautiful. Nylon hose ftw.



I have a small gap between the rad panel and the rad, and other tings im sure. So I found this self adhesive silicone foam tape on amazon, and its really affordable, not to mention, good to 500*, and that includes the adhesive. So I can stick this **** directly to the rad!


Saint-Gobain 100S Strip-N-Stick Silicone Gasket Tape


Also got a mocal sandwich. So now I have everything for the oil cooler, except time.

And for when I do the 1.8 swap in 2026.

 

Im looking to setup knock control with megasquirt. Is there any reason I cant use the NB knock sensor, off the 99 motor I have, on the 1.6? The boss is already there on the 1.6 block, assuming its the right thread and clears the oil pressure sender can, it will bolt up. But is the NB sensor tuned to 1.8L bore? will my 1.6 *** that up? Can the MS be tuned for it? Or do I just buy the Bosch sensor?