I picked up a clerk at TJ Maxx today. She checked me out, literally.

 

Lane Bryant > TJ Maxx

 

So hooking your vacuum line up to the wrong wastegate barb means you get all the boost. I hit 226kpa in 4/5th gear at 4250rpms. My boost limit is set to 225kpa which I learned the hard way of hitting it.

For the brief drive I took it the car ran fine. I think that I have a coolant leak somewhere as after each drive my radiator is a little low, I just have not been able to pinpoint the leak yet. I am planning on putting actual coolant in so I can watch for the green liquid. Hopefully after driving to and from work tomorrow I will have it found and can fix it.

 

I've done the same thing at my WG before - sweet accel until it hits boost cut and bucks like hell. GLW finding the leak - get a black light and hunt it down at night if it's a really hard one to find.

 

RE Coolant: put in real coolant and follow your nose

 

I am planning on picking up coolant on my way home today. Generally I do not run with any just because it is not needed down in the south.

I drove the car into work today and it drove great. No major issues. I have a few small things to fix tune wise. Also checking coolant level at lunch it only looked slightly low, so maybe I do not have a leak.

 

updates?? how's it running?

 

My rear window is more or less completely destroyed. I keep putting the top down while it is cold out. I have my new replacement top in the garage that I need to install.

It runs decently. Still needs a ton of tuning, I honestly just have not been that motivated to drive it recently. It has no heat and it has been cold in the mornings these last couple of weeks.

This weekend is looking to be nice out. So I will probably work on finding my coolant leak and then go out on the street to tune. I also have to switch back from bluetooth to USB to work with my laptop.

 

I lied about working on it last weekend. I got lazy and did other things instead. So tonight I finally got motivated enough to go out and look for my oil leak.


bbundy mentioned in one post using an inner tube to find leaks. So I went up to the local store and picked a bike inner tube and pump. After a few pumps it looked like this.


I quickly found 2 or 3 leaks. I had not tightened down some clamps on hoses as much as they should have been tightened down.


I have now tightened them. Once I change the oil and get my intake manifold back on I will take the car out and hopefully not find any more things to break.

 

how does that work? The bike inner tube I mean?

 

It pressurizes the coolant system. Same concept as this tool, just a hell of a lot cheaper. I think I spent about $20 total on it all, $5 for the inner tube, then $15 for a bike pump since I did not own one.

 

Replace one of the lines in your system with cut up bike tube (use the part with the valve, in this case it looks like upper rad hose) hose clamp in place, add air, win at coolant leaks.

 

I get it now! Cool, but what I have is an adapted schrader valve in a brass fitting that I screw into the drain port on my radiator, so no wonder I was really confused at what the hell I was looking at besides a super bloated coolant bladder.

 

TSE radiator do not have a drain port, so while your adapter and schrader valve is a amazing idea for most radiator, it would not work for me. But the concept is exactly the same.

 

whatever works for cheapness

 

So after driving the car a few times this week, I still have a slight coolant leak at the back where my reroute spacer is. So this weekend I will be changing my top and pulling off the spacer to figure out why it is leaking still.

 

What are you using for a gasket? An actual gasket or RTV?

Did you use a file to clean the surface of the head?

 

It is an actual gasket. I may not have replaced both gaskets with new ones when I had the motor out during the summer.

 

I had a leak with gaskets too. RTV'd that ish and no problemo

 

Thread title is wrong.