Driver side ducting.



Engine almost done begin built.

 

looks like sewer piping from Alcatraz

 

It is a 5 year old BEGI intercooler pipe. It has seen better days, but it works.

 

Busted up over the alcatraz comment

Looks like its coming back together nicely though.

 

Engine is in.


The intercooler pipe that connects to my throttle body now does not fit with the new TSE radiator. I need to figure out how to make it work.



Also I found a crack on my wastegate pipe. It is not at a weld, but at the flex joint which vibrant makes. I am talking with Tim on the best way to fix it.

 

A small 45* coupler might fix that intake pipe, assuming the pipe lines up with the lower portion. Make sure it's black, please.

 

Will be measuring and hopefully ordering a black 45degree coupler tomorrow from silicone intakes. I can make the bottom section line up to the other pipe and fit.

 

Why not just a 90* and cut up that BEGI piece?

 

That would require effort AND the price of a coupler.

Don't forget who Lars is friends with.

 

Lars is more willing to spend that me.

But he can rotate the pipe so the 45° will work perfectly and he doesn't have to cut off the bead.

 

Will the BOV get into the alt. belt in that case?

 

I will probably order both the 45° and 90° couplers and see which one works the easiest.

That is a very good question. I am not sure of that yet. I will check next time that I am home and it is not raining out. Not sure when that will be at this point since it is supposed to rain all week.

 

I noticed Lar has the FM 1%er tools.

 

Those tools are awesome. I will no longer pray that my crank is torqued. The cam tool has its place, but doesn't seem to work quite as advertised. The zip tie thing never works.
Lars, remember that with our throttle bodies pointed down, you'll have to trim the 90* coupler to make it point straight down.

 

I have not really used the cam tool yet. So I can not pass judgment on it. The other 3 tools that I have from FM are amazing though.

I am not on a stock IM or TB. I have the old Begi cast IM and mustang TB so it points pretty straight. Below are pictures of how the pipe sits without the coupler.

 

You're supposed to be able to zip tie it to the sprockets, take the belt+sprockets off, and be able to put it back. But you'll never get the crank in the right spot. And I dunno if I put the zip ties on too tight or what, but once I take them off, there's no way I can fit both sprockets back on.

Works amazing as a bottle opener, and holds the cams in the right place.

It will fall out though, I've had to zip tie it in place just to hold it there.

Edit: also, it looks like that 45* might be a less than ideal but easier solution to your issue.

I don't really like the looks of any of those pipes though.

 

I'm thinking build new coldside? No way thats gonna work without major modifications anyways. Sell that to someone who can use it and start fresh.

 

So I had about 3 hours worth of dry time today to work on my car. I got more of the hotside together. Tomorrow it is supposed to be sunny out all day some hopefully I can get the cold side finished up. The one thing that might hold me up is waiting on my couplers. Tracking says they should be here tomorrow, but I really expect them to show up Saturday.

 

I forgot how sexy your manifold is!

 

I am starting to really dislike the positioning of the TSE radiator upper fill pipe. It is making it a royal bitch to get my cold side piping working. I think the TSE radiator and BEGI IM just are not meant to play nicely together.

I think I might be able to make the 90 degree coupler point a pipe straight down and get it to all fit. Unfortunately that means I need to order a new Blow Off Valve Weld Flange for my blow off valve and then get it welded onto the new pipe. So yet another thing that is going to delay getting my car back on the road.