Erat

iTrader: (5)

So i overnighted #JDMclubroadstersqag parts. Whatever you guys don't care about hashtag ****.

Pictures:




oh shiz


Nothing is written in English.


Oh these will be helpful.


Crappy picture.


I'll get a good set of pictures once i get it on the car, and the wheel mounted to it. I'm so excited for this thing. Maybe i can get that Nardi wheel of mine on the car when it stops raining, and i find some beer to help motivate me.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Looks like fun, though I'm not completely sure what it is...

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Looks like a steering hub adapter with a pnp air bag light defeater.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Moneyshot.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Another, little bit better picture.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Because i don't **** around:

BE oil pump showed up today. Street pump 60psi.




Thinking of just getting valve springs, and valves. Spin this bastard up to 8500rpm.

GAMO

iTrader: (1)

The Daikei hub is the only way to go. The Momo "plug and play" is absolutely ridiculous.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The ngk slim hub is pretty nice if you either: dont care about the air bag light, are doing a complete air bag delete, or know how to buy 2 dollars worth of resistors to make the airbag delete circuit that comes with the daikei.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I had an NGK hub. Not sure i posted it in here. I didn't like it one bit. I sent it back, i'm much happier with this hub. Air bag light was already deleted via megasquirt, but the passenger one should still work. Plus i retain my horn, and it was easy.

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

What size is the steering wheel? Can you see the gauges?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

350mm I can see all the gauges. Stock seat, and i'm only 5'6".

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

I really like Nardi wheels. Where did you get it and for how much? That was the hub I was going to get as well. Did you buy it to give you more room or just for aesthetics? My stock wood Nardi is humongous and I need more room.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

The wheel came from gomiata (which many people have had problems with in the past) and the hub was from rev9.

I did it kind of for looks. The stock wheel was getting worn out, the grip was "slipping" over the metal. Made it hard to drive aggressively. This pulled the wheel slightly closer to me which helps a little.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Not sure if it was FM's fault, or ACL's fault. But they failed to get me my thrust bearings/washers. So Bryan(dem) hooked me up with some Clevite ones and a Gates high performance timing belt.
FM has the rest of my rebuild kit, stage 2 clutch, and m-tuned reroute in the mail.

Got pretty much the last of this torn down before i take it to the builder.



I'll be out of town next weekend, taking the miata up north camping. Sick of this waiting game.
I noticed yesterday that my MBC is a real piece of ****. I'm going to need new diff bushings.

Suggestions and advice are always welcomed.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Car got up to 220F on the highway just now. I have my under tray stuff in place, i think the bigger intercooler is just more restricting.

Start hacking up this hood? I think so. It's only 3:30.
2 vents on the side, and an evo vent behind radiator??? Take off fan shroud??? Wait till my reroute gets here, build engine, put that on and then evaluate???

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Slap a reroute on the current engine, sounds like the fan shroud may be a bit restrictive at highway speeds. I've always run without the fan shroud since at high speeds you aren't using the fans anyways.

You running 50/50 coolan/water? Run as much water as you can. Use distilled water. Use some redline water wetter fluid as well.

Do you have an aluminum radiator? Sorry, didn't want to look through 14 pages to see. If not, get one. Mishimoto is fine, mine was a HUGE upgrade over the OEM auto trans radiator I had.

You mentioned you ahve a oem undertray in place, do you have a upper shroud too? Like this:


I've got the BEGI one and it's a noticeable difference.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

The reroute will go in when i get this engine built. I have the Mishimoto 3" core, the big one. But i still have AC. Under tray is custom made. I may make a new, better one once i get my plasma cutter and i can make better cuts. Top cooling plate is OEM, but i think i should get one of them aftermarket ones. I'm going with more of a water mix in my coolant when i put the new engine in too. I can't have things freeze in the winter, it could get below 0 so i need a good bit of coolant in it.
When i got back in the driveway it was at 215F and i had the hood popped with the one fan running, and it really wasn't cooling it. Well, quickly anyway. So i think it may have more to do with to much coolant, and a reroute needed. The damn thing over-cools in the cold, and under-cools in the hot... haha.

Edit* i posted a picture of my charge pipe hitting my coolant hose in your thread. You could see my aluminum radiator.
Though i don't think that little dimple in the hose is enough to restrict coolant flow.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Ah yeah, duh. Also, I didn't realize those egay rads come in multiple sizes, lol. I highly doubt there is any restriction in the flow where those two hoses rub, under pressure it should be a non-issue.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Well, i don't know anything about ebay radiators. I do know mine is more than good enough though because it was over cooling when it was cold. My t-stat is new too.
I was going to drive this up north. But i don't think i will now.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Order your parts from Fab9, they don't mess around and will get your stuff sent out pronto!

Sent Bryan a text, and he hooked me up fast. I told him it didn't have to ship out until monday, and it got here today. That's awesome.

Silly i was being held up by the stupid thrust washers. I'm sure the Clevite will work just as good as the ACL.
Picked up the Gates high performance timing belt as well. Might as well if i'm going to spin this engine up to high RPM's. Still have to source a water pump, i figured i might as well just put a new one in while i'm at it.