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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 08-01-2012, 04:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by k24madness View Post
It's horrible because the turbine section is the worst of the Garrett offerings at converting exhaust energy (65%) to shaft power for the compressor. The GT28 on the other hand is one of the best at 75%.
FM2 GT2560R vs GT2860RS, think spool. - MX-5 Miata Forum

Wut?
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:57 PM   #22
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all those FM plots have crap for top end. not sure why, but i suspect if they were tuned better you'd see more of a difference.
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:57 PM   #23
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The Gt28 is larger so of course it will spool slower. It should also allow for more timing to make up some of that. That difference does not seem right based on my what I have seen on other cars. The larger turbine should result in much better top end. Not sure why Keith was not able to tune for that.

The Miata community is the only place I have ever seen so much love for the GT25 over the GT28. Not that the 28 does not have it's issues. The compressor offerings are less than optimal hence my original suggestion for the Tial billet compressor wheel in a GT28 frame. With that compressor we saw spool 500 RPMs sooner without any changes. I wish someone would try that setup on a Miata.

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all those FM plots have crap for top end. not sure why, but i suspect if they were tuned better you'd see more of a difference.
Altitude likely plays a role.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:19 PM   #24
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it's not love for the t25 over the t28. the t25 just pairs better with .64. i'm giving love to the t28 w/ .86 and so it pretty much everyone else. "upgrading" to a 2860 with .64 housing is like if iphone 5's were out and you had an iphone 4 but you got the iphone 4s instead. except for the 2860 has slightly better top end in the right scenario and less tq in the low end so it's more of a wash. it's more like buying another iphone 4 to replace your iphone 4.

the 2560 is just a better turbo for a 1.6. I'm not just saying that. nearly every dyno ever compared shows it. the 2860 with .86 in the correct scenario could be a different story.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:43 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
all those FM plots have crap for top end. not sure why, but i suspect if they were tuned better you'd see more of a difference.
.64 housing.
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:08 PM   #26
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Jason - or others,

Did you actually run a 2860RS but swap in the .64ex housing?

I'm thinking of going tial v band housing on my disco but running the .64 turbine.

How was your spool and mid and top end? What motor, manifold, psi etc.?

I'm street only driving and have a goal of around 300hp on a built vvt.
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:14 PM   #27
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Well, since you bumped the thread anyways... in for anyone elses recent 2860rs experiences. I'll be finding out for myself soon enough
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:11 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
pretty much.

14psi vs 17psi:

Did you use an electronic boost controller with boost rising with RPM to get that flat torque curve?

Keith
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:16 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
all those FM plots have crap for top end. not sure why, but i suspect if they were tuned better you'd see more of a difference.
At altitude a turbo leaves it's efficiency island in the compressor plot much sooner. The pressure ratios on the plot are the same (obviously), but the inlet pressure at the compressor is significantly lower, so to get the same boost pressure you actually have to run a higher pressure ratio moving you up and out of the efficient range of the turbo at the same boost pressure that would be very efficient at sea level.

Keith
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:58 PM   #30
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To review my question - on the street will the .64 turbine housing kill all that's good about what was originally a disco potato? Will I get steamroller torque but a capped top end?
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:33 PM   #31
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OP,
Just turn the damn boost up.

You have a built bottom end with super low compression, why are you still at 17 psi?

edit:
******* 2012 thread. OP's B6 probably blew up by now.
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:18 PM   #32
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Blame me for reviving this, and for bringing sexy back....
Too late - I just committed to a .64 Tial turbine housing, it was the only way to convince myself to go v-band. It was cheap and being v-band I will probably review my turbo options next winter after a summer of driving my 2860R.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:32 PM   #33
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I have no direct experience but I'm pretty sure Sav/Hustler both say that the .64 housing sucks and to pull up your skirt and run the .86.
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:58 PM   #34
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Ha, when I do it'll be a 2871 to go with it most likely
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:03 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
Ha, when I do it'll be a 2871 to go with it most likely
Is it to late to change your order? You should get the .86 and purchased this from the for sale forums:

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...flanges-77544/

Then you could try out both and let us know the results!

Keith
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