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Old 05-24-2013, 02:11 PM   #21
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So what did Full Race tell you about availability of the 7163?
Nothing just yet, still waiting on a reply. But they are the ones that recommended it to me Before it releases "here soon"
So I did research, and got so excite.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #22
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Haha xD yeah never use synthetic oil for break in. I'll probably go get some **** oil.
I saw awhile back that Royal People is now making break in oil. ( over priced conventional oil I'm sure)
yeah, heard the same thing... Royal Purple isnt terrible, but im willing to bet you are right... overpriced conventional. I used rotella T, and right now it is only $13 if you have an advanced auto nearby.... doesnt get cheaper than that.

My friend (has that gross honda virus) had his H22 taken apart recently to sleeve it, and he used nothing but royal purple for 3 years... engine had a **** ton of sludge in it...
i know they are reputable, but i wont use it because of this
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:18 PM   #23
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yeah, heard the same thing... Royal Purple isnt terrible, but im willing to bet you are right... overpriced conventional. I used rotella T, and right now it is only $13 if you have an advanced auto nearby.... doesnt get cheaper than that.

My friend (has that gross honda virus) had his H22 taken apart recently to sleeve it, and he used nothing but royal purple for 3 years... engine had a **** ton of sludge in it...
i know they are reputable, but i wont use it because of this
Well if it was a non-detergent race oil (which some royal purple oils are) the sludge is completely understandable. Non-detergent oils will sludge every time, they're supposed to be run in engines that have their life measured in hours. But any detergent oil has no business sludging at all unless the oil change interval was stretch WAY to long (common symptom of the honda virus).
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:22 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Well if it was a non-detergent race oil (which some royal purple oils are) the sludge is completely understandable. Non-detergent oils will sludge every time, they're supposed to be run in engines that have their life measured in hours. But any detergent oil has no business sludging at all unless the oil change interval was stretch WAY to long (common symptom of the honda virus).
you dont need to change oil often when you have mad V-Tec yo.... everybody knows that...

makes sense... it probably was the non detergent race stuff... slap "race" in the name, and it automatically looks better for the V-Tack
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:31 PM   #25
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Nothing just yet, still waiting on a reply. But they are the ones that recommended it to me Before it releases "here soon"
So I did research, and got so excite.
They can be difficult to get hold of. Best to email them directly (Geoff/Jon/Raffi)

For oil, I used Rotella for the whole process.

Rotella T1 SAE30 (straight-grade) for initial fill, start and drain (to clean up all the crap after assembly)
Rotella T1 SAE30 (straight-grade)for break-in (like first 10-30 miles)
Rotella T Triple 15W40 (good conventional) for first 500 miles or so
Rotella T6 after that (full synthetic)

Bought everything at walmart

straight-grade rotella -
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:21 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
They can be difficult to get hold of. Best to email them directly (Geoff/Jon/Raffi)

For oil, I used Rotella for the whole process.

Rotella T1 SAE30 (straight-grade) for initial fill, start and drain (to clean up all the crap after assembly)
Rotella T1 SAE30 (straight-grade)for break-in (like first 10-30 miles)
Rotella T Triple 15W40 (good conventional) for first 500 miles or so
Rotella T6 after that (full synthetic)

Bought everything at walmart.
Thanks Soviet & Leafy
I'll probably end up doing the Rotella T1 route now.
Thank God... someone that knows engine break in isn't 500-1000mi. It doesn't take THAT long for rings to seal.

How did you do your break in?
My plan was:
fill with strait weight oil, start up and idle. Change oil, normal drive to nearby bridge. forth gear to vacuum/boost threshold let off gas, repeat untill over bridge (4-5 Times or more) then just normal drive around to put miles, change oil.


Hondas don't need oil changes. they eat a qt a week so it's like having a new oil every month!

Last edited by Impuls; 05-24-2013 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Typical Honda bashing
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #27
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Hondas don't need oil changes. they eat a qt a week so it's like having a new oil every month!
Yep... that Honduh engineering is unbeatable!!!!!
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:30 PM   #28
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its not vtec if it isn't MAD VTAK
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:41 PM   #29
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Do you even BWAAAHHH?!
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:53 PM   #30
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I broke my engine in the same way you described
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:12 PM   #31
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I broke my engine in the same way you described
Okay cool deal, What type of manifold are you running for your 6758? Still begi log?

On the news side of things I bought some brand new ID1000's from a member not but a few minutes ago :3

Last edited by Impuls; 05-24-2013 at 05:15 PM. Reason: epic awesome injector news.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:27 PM   #32
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no I have a 1-off tubular log manifold.

this one - https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-thread-59615/
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:56 PM   #33
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Update on the new EFR 7163 from Geoff:
The 7163 "is likely to be released in August and shipping in sept"

I'm not going to lie(I can not, I like big butts), I'm pretty ******* excited.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:52 PM   #34
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Some ID1000's arrived today
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:59 PM   #35
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I love that their new ones have the clips holding down the extenders/adapters.

I sold my old set and bought a new set for this very reason
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:04 PM   #36
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I love that their new ones have the clips holding down the extenders/adapters.

I sold my old set and bought a new set for this very reason
Interesting.
But makes no difference to me
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:57 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I love that their new ones have the clips holding down the extenders/adapters.

I sold my old set and bought a new set for this very reason
Yeah I'm pretty impressed by them, I can't wait for everything to be running.
There will be a delay in getting and EFR sadly, thanks to the ol AirForce shaft, but all in due time. It's still fun with the IHI rh55 :/ even though they are horrible.
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:32 PM   #38
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Its not a monster turbo like a 7064 but its still pretty big.
I don't think the 7064 is that much larger. A bit longer, yes, but that's not really hard to compensate for when you're custom-building a manifold.

6258 0.64a/r T25 vs 7064 0.92a/r T4TS



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Old 05-30-2013, 12:13 AM   #39
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I don't think the 7064 is that much larger. A bit longer, yes, but that's not really hard to compensate for when you're custom-building a manifold.

6258 0.64a/r T25 vs 7064 0.92a/r T4TS



Maybe I should man up and take AC/PS out..
Florida summers are horrible though, especially in a black car.
It would make my " well it fit" manifold worry go away
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:16 AM   #40
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Maybe I should man up and take AC/PS out..
Florida summers are horrible though, especially in a black car.
It would make my " well it fit" manifold worry go away
Think about that really hard before you do it. I don't see why you couldn't make it work. My turbo is larger physically(probably not as long, though) and I have tons of room for a/c.

There is nothing worse than sitting in traffic and the sweltering heat just engulfs you. No one will ever want to ride in your car.
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