soviet

iTrader: (10)

Ah, everything looks so clean before you start abusing it

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

I took leave all this week to get this thing running.
and of course my luck shows.

I haven't taken the final pictures yet but here I took during the week:




The finished product is a lot better then those pictures make it to be. I need to get rid of those danmed red vacuum lines.

There's a while list of things that went wrong.
missing hardware because people fucked with my ****. Luckily we were able to acquire said hardware.
So after everything was bolted up and rechecked torque. Filed with coolant. Leaks, leaks all around the back. Coolant reroute w/ Kai waterneck and spacer.
So I figured we needed to just torque it down more. Yup it snapped. going to just a **** ton of RTV next time.
Also, no first start. I got ignition twice and that was it. the connection between my laptop and Megasquirt was compete ****. my laptops charger is broken now and also.
We forgot about the oil pressure sender.


No luck ever getting the MS to connect to the computer again. So I put it on the trailer and took it tu my place till I get the parts I need and this sit happens.



Front strap broke then back strap broke trying to hold it during those giving mountains of speedbumps.

So I've had a GREAT week with the car.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

Holy crap well I hope it gets better from here.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Well I just got the car to start.
Something is fucked though, I have to keep my foot on the th so it doesn't die and my AFR gauge is leaned out 19.9 jumping to 14.8 sometimes, and Megasquirt isn't getting an AFR signal.

Sounds like a wiring/ fuel problem to me.
Also my gas gauge since I put the Walboro in is saying empty :/
I hate automotive electrics.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Here's a video of what my ****** does on start up.
I have to hold the RPM with the throttle so it doesn't die. Horrible idle vaccum. Oh also I checked timing with the help of someone holding the throttle...

In my .msq my timing is set to fixed timing 10 degrees...
My timing like is showing my timing at 0 degrees, As in:

Block indicators:
|-----10-----T------------|
My crank timing points as my timing light shows
|------------10-----T-----|
Exactly like that.

Also as you can see in the video my AFR Gauge is giving me a [3] which is " an sensor error code. Please check if the sensor is disconnected or defective."
So I guess my wideband went out. Figures. It wasn't giving a really good reading before.


So as you guys can see, My luck never stops with cars. I may burn her to the ground.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Looks like its running on 2 cylinders. Check if all cylinders are sparking and getting fuel. Put like, a credit card or something under the throttle stopper so it holds idle and unplug spark wires to see if it changes in idle.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Also, ETA on 7163?

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I thought it sounded weird but thought it was because of the idle. I'll check that out, plugs are new and I wouldn't think it only firing on 2 cyl would cause the timing to be +10 degrees.
It may be my ignition settings also. 32-1 toothed wheel and such.


It this continues like this probably never haha. I don't know though. They were suppose to "release" this month and then ship out September I haven't gotten any word about them though.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking all this is from my toothed wheel being mounted wrong..
I'm not sure since when I asked for help on the tune and if the machine shop assembled this right no one said anything.

Old pictures:
10 Degree and T (note crank key slot)



Missing tooth location (note crank key slot again):


This doesn't seem like my missing tooth at 80 degrees BTDC setting. Which I was afraid of this since I wasn't sure if the superdamper + tooth wheel can only go together one way
Also if I'm only running on 2 cylinders like it sounds, it seems I'm in the same boat as this guys thread "https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...linders-68724/"

ardler_dan

Have you done reading up on tooth wheels and how an ECU reads them?

If you have don't read the below as it's teaching you how to suck eggs..

The ECU sees the missing tooth and goes "right, coming up is TDC"... it knows where TDC is due to what you program it to do. Crank the engine by hand with a 22mm socket on the crankbolt, imagine what the sensor is seeing - is it seeing the missing tooth shortly before no1 is at TDC? If so then you need to look at your settings in tuner studio.

You can get an engine to run with the missing tooth say 320degrees before tdc but you're relying too much on the engine swinging round that far without the ECU loosing sync - in practice with voltage drop etc an engine that has the missing tooth more than 120degrees before TDC can have issues on low battery voltages whilst starting (I do a lot of complete loss race cars here in the UK and even when running on a low battery voltage some ECU's crap themselves if they have to hold sync for too long).

I'd say check the above, check your settings and THEN look at spark outputs etc - you don't want to petrol wash those bores...

Dan

Miater

Looks like a solid project.

No machine work on the block?

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Yes I've done a lot of reading of the missing tooth wheel ignition. I just made the mistake of relying on the balancing machine shop on the install of the trigger wheel.
Could you explain the petrol wash the bore though? I understand if the ignition is wrong it won't fire and will run rich. And therefore flooding the engine? ( if that's what your getting at)


Medicine work on block and head
If you look at the pictures of the block you'll notice diamond bore and hone. Really awesome stuff.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

When you have a misfire like this due to ignition, you wash the cylinder walls with raw fuel.

Which is bad.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

This is the trigger wheel (OEM 36-1) I run and the setting is somewhere 80-100*, I don't remember. You're forgetting that the crank sensor is offset, so when engine is at TDC the sensor is at like 60*

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

I'm removing the pully once I get off work. I need to make sure for safe of mind.
Mine just looks like its wrong for missing tooth at 80° (the setting I have)

By the looks of yours it has that key way, I remember if mine has that. Also mine may be mounted backwards if you notice my pictures the missing tooth is on the opposite side of yours.
I may be paranoid. When I checked timing 1-4 fire fine. Very stable flash from the timing light.
2-3 is erratic. I did this just to check if my coils were firing.
MSM coil over plug wasted spark system if anyone didn't know.

Is the crank keyway facing up at TDC? <-- Stupid question I know figuring we just but my engine together.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

Here's how it looks with timing marks lined up:



I'm acquiring a puller tomorrow to remove it.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure your timing belt is on correctly?

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

I can always double check when I have the pully off. I watched it go on and we caught it being 1 tooth off before. Everything lined up from what I remember.

What happens if it's off by a tooth? I haven't ever read up on it.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

1 tooth isn't likely to cause the issues you're seeing. It'd have to be pretty wrong to do this. I somewhat doubt it's your issue, but it's pretty easy to check just to rule it out.


My race motor was timed really wrong, and ran something like this. Only ran on 3 cylinders out of 6. (Front bank only, back bank just backfired and shot fire out of the throttles.) Turns out it was running at all only through dumb luck.

I kinda doubt you could **** up timing a BP bad enough for that, though.

Impuls

iTrader: (1)

True, I'm defiantly going to check every is correct again.

For now though my question is how the hell do you remove the super dampener?
I rented a puller from auto store. The bolts aren't long enough, and pretty sure that enough force will just strip the holes.