Did you get a 2/3 jaw puller?

 

Yup it only came with 5/16ths 18x2" thought. I went tu the hardware store thought and hit a 2 1/2", pulling it off right now

 

Is this true? I never did this
https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...e2/#post976776

So, the missing tooth needs to be at 80° after the sensor at TDC. and I need to grind off the 2 teeth on the cam wheel. maybe it's because of that and my settings set up for sequential (needs cam signal) that it ran like ****? I'm checking timing marks for TDC and this what I got:
TDC:

Cam timing:


****.

 

Batch fueling doesn't work. Starts then instantly dies.

I may take the leap and just grind those teeth off.

Though I found out the output>ECU from my AFR controller took a ****. Keeps reading 1.6v or -1.2v and ****. Going to talk to prosport about it when I can.

 

Dude, you need to read & understand megasquirt trigger wheel settings. The car should run in batch/wasted spark. If it doesn't run in batch/wasted spark, you have issues. Get it running in batch/wasted spark first.

Megasquirt-3 MS3 Trigger Wheel

 

Yeah I know it SHOULD run on batch.
I've read about toothed wheel over and over again, I have a form understanding of it now.

I believe my Megasquirt got fried :/ it's showing 0.30 AFR at -1.24v with my AFR controller signal at 5.12v when the ignition is on. Which may be another result of my cigarette lighter going out frying my laptop's charging cable.
This really sucks.. it's a MS2PNP for 99. I'm sure there's a way to take it apart and check. off to take it out.

 

Sequential and batch logs..
The car battery died today from all the starting. Had everything in batch and started and ran for about 5 seconds though it's progress. But you can see I get sync loss reason 2. Missing tooth in wrong place.

 

I had sync loss when my cam sensor was wired in reverse. You may need to change 'rising edge' to 'falling edge' or vice versa.

Run the trigger logger. you should see 35 bars, gap, 35 bars, gap, etc...
MS2/Extra - Tooth and trigger loggers

 

Yeah in the composite logs I posted I have that 35, gap, 35, gap.

I'll give that rising edge or falling edge a try. when ever I find out whats wrong with my actual MS. :/ The circuits may have gotten damaged. The only one I know for sure isn't working is reading AFR input.

Any experts on the schematics and what shiuld be tested?
I'm wondering if DIY will do a warranty type swap on it or if that just doesn't exist.

 

Change the rising edge/falling edge and see if it works.
Also you might need to adjust the pots on megasquirt.

 

I found this ******. DB15 pin 14 (O2 sensor) leads to this..

 

I learned my lesson to get the programming first, on a naturally aspirated motor before going all out on a build.

Its too late, the build looks good, be patient, if this is your DD, you should start checking CL for another to get you from point A to B.

Good luck on the build

I feel ya for the wideband, the same thing happened to me. Had to unplug/ disconnect everything and send it back to warranty. It pushed me back about a week, and similarly I had taken time off from work, I was furious. Moments like that you have to let go, and stop working on the car else it will end in the "part out" sub-forums.

 

The programming was fine before. I don't know what you're trying to say by "it's too late". I chose to build it out 7-8 months ago after it ran fine.

**** happens and you gotta fix it.

 

Well, I can now run sequential.
Still waiting on DIYautotune to send back my ECU. I suppose they are still testing it.

 

It does not sound that way by the questions you are asking...

 

Explain

 

Alright so,
I have idle problems consisting of oscillation and/or stall/dying.

Been doing some research on the subject but if anyone would like to point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.

I still get sync loss reason 2, and now reason 5 (first tooth failed test) but I think reason 5 is from my battery dying once again from cranking.



I know the attached log is pretty horrible but my battery died. My idle is for sure "surging" or "oscillating" though. can't seem to figure out why or what to do.

 

Idle tuning is tricky. Anything being off will kill idle. Do a bit of VE analyze live in order to make sure your general fuel map is OK, injectors work etc. Then get to the idle.

 

By idle you mean idle control valve? Can the car idle with just the adjustment screw? That should be the first step - disconnect the idle control valve and just the screw.

Good to know that grinding those nubs off the cam wheel works. As far as I know, you're the first one who actually did it.

 

VE live is about impossible to do since my AFR takes long to calibrate when turned on. I need to source an external one/tail pipe sniffer.

I did the idle valve test. nothing changed with idle. Bad IAC Valve?
I'll try unplugging it just for kicks. if I can Getty it to idle somewhat I'm going to check for vacuum leaks too.
I'm doing a fresh slate install right now; reload firmware, reload basemap tune.