Another great idea... the base hobby shop has to have a welder, or the motor pool.

I almost forgot plugs. Braineak said one step colder NGK's are the ticket, part# BKR7E-11. I assume these can be bought at Advance or Kragen.

I just sent payment for the Bipes... so that just about wraps it up. Everything should be here by middle of next week. Now I just need that damn truck so I can put it on jacks and start.

 

have an exhaust shop custom make you one for 'track use' and just don't have them install it...w/ the flanges of course, then for inspections, you could replace yours w/ the cat. and all other times use the TP. I got my test pipe w/ my exhaust so it will be going on when everything else goes on and the FM cat will go to the closet for a while.

Just tell them you race it, and you need it for the track only.

my cat was trashed when I took mine in to get it looked at, I couldn't afford a new cat so the local guy just said, you know what trust is? I nodded, he then proceded to bend a piece of pipe and welded it in place...

this was before I got my new exhaust and cat on...its just about where you take it and who you talk to.

 

looks like you have it on the run. i would offer my truck but you are abit to far away just stay patient and it will be worth it when you have fewer problems later.

 

Get BKR7E instead of the BKR7E-11, as they'll already be gapped down to .033-.035 (the "11" stands for 1.1mm, or .043" gap).

 

What a nice tidbit of info.

 

I accept tips.

And here's another: you can use the stock #6097 to help the clerk find it at most auto parts stores.

Good site: http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp

 

Good one... OK, time to start installing this stuff I think... but first, questions?

I hope the turbo/rebuild kit gets here today, if so, I can do the rebuild this weekend. I also want to install some of the other stuff I've bought ahead of time.
Walbro
Begi AFPR
Bipes
Intercooler (not the piping, but the AC is coming out this weekend and I might as well)
Spark Plugs
Boost gauge/line: also, best place to tap... pre or post IC?

Is there any potential problems installing this stuff while still NA?

I also want to do Seafoam this weekend. I think the spare Vaccum line where the Cruise Control taps off of is where most people recommend to do it. As I understand, warm up the car, stick the vaccum line in to the can. Keep the engine between 1500-2000 rpms while pinching and unpinching the line allowing the Seafoam to be drawn in gradually. Use about 1/3 can over about 30 seconds and then kill the engine. Let the stuff sit for 5 minutes, start engine, keep RPM's near 3000 until white smoke stops. Is this right?

 

No problem installing the items you listed ahead of time.

 

what i do. then I put the rest in the gas tank and oil

 

post. then you can see exactly what the engine is getting.


sidenote: You Navy folk get tattoos down there? One of my best buds does tattoos at the Blue Horseshoe.

 

/\ Too fast for me

Tap at the manifold, using the cruise control line.

Braineack: do you have a thread on using the seafoam?

 

Nope, just use as above. It's fun, you'll scare all your neighbors.

 

"It's okay! Everything's under control"

I read somewhere it's like the "Spyhunter smoke screen" which is obviously cool. I like that game.

Also, if the neighbors are really bad (fire department knocks..), ... midnight mission should do the trick.

 

Well, no turbo rebuild this weekend. The good deal I got on a used T25 turns out to maybe be a scam. It arrived today, and there is no turbine wheel. The groove where the turbine wheel sits inside the housing has metal damage beyond repair. This thing is useless. Also, the $150 authentic "Garrett" rebuild kit he got me a great deal on is this one...
http://www.gpopshop.com/garrettt2kits.html
Available to the general public both there and on eBay any day of the week for the same price.


Thankfully I used paypal and never erease anything out of Hotmail. I just emailed him to see what he wants to do... I'll keep you posted.

 

i cut the vacuum line near the booster, before the check valve then used brass barb fittings and compression fittings for my boost guage line. the compression fittings and ferrules are usually included with the guage or tubing kit. (see picture)

i've also drilled a small hole in the nipple cover on the back of the intake manifold and siliconed the boost tubing line into the hole and placed it back on the nipple.

 

Wow, that turbo is exactly why I won't buy used **** on eBay other than cosmetic stuff like shift ***** etc. Sorry.

And I hate to be a nag, but just put a cat on your car. Be at least a little bit environmentally responsible. Trust me, you won't be losing anywhere near 20-30hp like the other guy said. Maybe a 500whp car loses that to a stock cat with a hamster stuffed in it, but the difference between a good high flow cat and a test pipe on a 200whp car is MAYBE 5whp and 200rpm of spool TOPS. Be a good human being and kill the baby seals a little slower.

 

i hope you get a refund on the turbo.

 

There is some honor left in the internet after all. He's going to refund the purchase price and I get to keep the turbo. The compressor housing and wheel looks good. I'm not sure what a new shaft assembly and turbine housing costs, but it's probably just better to source another used turbo. OH well, good learning experience. At least I can still remove my A/C and get started installing the other crap today... as soon as I stop hunting Craigslist for me next turbo.

 

Thats good to hear that he manned up and refunded the turbo.

 

A/C removal comlete. I've left the condensor in the passenger footwell for now until I get the crossover tube next time I'm at the dealer... but as you can see, lots more room!!!
I removed the .48 turbine housing from my busted T25. It is in great shape... nothing wrong with it at all. The CHRA section has metal damage on the turbine side that is irreparable, so that's scrap. I can't get the compressor housing off the CHRA, the "C" clip is a bit rusted. I bathed it in WD40, so we'll see tomorrow if I can budge it. I think the local NorthernTool is open tomorrow, if not, the HarborFreight will carry some 90* pliers. I'm pretty sure the compressor housing will be just fine. If so, I just need a new CHRA and rotating assembly... that should only be about$300 Oh well, I've contacted about a half-dozen guys with used T25's for sale today, we'll see if one of those pans out.