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Old 06-10-2014, 09:06 PM   #21
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my test was always turning on headlights and a/c at the same time I was dropping bass through my 500 watt amp.
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Old 06-11-2014, 03:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speed View Post
Will this be applicable to the MS3 basic I bought from rev. last summer for my 2000 model?
It will require hardware modifications and will require 2 output ports.
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Old 06-11-2014, 10:24 AM   #23
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It will require hardware modifications and will require 2 output ports.
For clarity sake, on a 99-00 would that be ECU pin 1T for the field line, and 1O to read the voltage?

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Old 06-14-2014, 12:04 PM   #24
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There is a hysteretic loop, with a couple of complications on top. Very high speed. minimum "stay in state" is 50uS.
Cool. That will regulate to within ~0.2 V from no load to full load, with very fast transient response. And if one wanted to have even more accuracy, put a PI loop on top of it.
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Old 06-16-2014, 05:00 PM   #25
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How are you wiring the alternator so it doesn't spike 14volts?
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:35 PM   #26
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Confusing question is confusing.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:27 PM   #27
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The alternator is currently charging 18v. It's not good at all. I just installed the ms3.
It should be 1 wire will have a 12V feed and the other will be control (ms) but which one is which?
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:46 AM   #28
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Quote:
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The alternator is currently charging 18v. It's not good at all. I just installed the ms3.
It should be 1 wire will have a 12V feed and the other will be control (ms) but which one is which?
wtf?

I'd start by wiring it correctly, then tuning it correctly.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:48 AM   #29
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We are working on the wiring before we tune atm. The voltage is what's stopping us.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:52 AM   #30
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Well if you're using MS to control your voltage, and you haven't tuned it, how do you expect it to get correct in the first place? Are you using the 1.3.2 firmware with the "Miata" control method?
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:54 AM   #31
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Everything is running properly. Fans, ac, idle. It's the voltage that were receiving out of the alternator is what's scary.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:54 AM   #32
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It's the voltage that were receiving out of the alternator is what's scary.
how are you controlling it?
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:03 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuyler View Post
For clarity sake, on a 99-00 would that be ECU pin 1T for the field line, and 1O to read the voltage?

I'm assuming it would be:

1O field out - spare PWM output.
1Q charge indicator - spare medium/high output (like inj e-f-g-h)

I'm also assuming that 1Q is optional if you don't want a low voltage indicator.

1T is a input/ground from the alt. to the OEM ECU to let it know the alternator isn't functioning (something to that matter), it is unused.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:20 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuyler View Post
For clarity sake, on a 99-00 would that be ECU pin 1T for the field line, and 1O to read the voltage?

The Mazda diagram is kind of confusing. 99/00:
Alternator field is 1O
Alt sense is 1T

01/05:
field is D4
sense is E27
Where D is the 24 pin plug and E is the 31 pin plug
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:22 AM   #35
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I appreciate it. Hoping this will help.
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:16 PM   #36
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So I will be simply hooking the alternator field wire from 1O to the nitrous 1 pwm, using the exact settings posted in Ben's first post aside from changing miata to the renamed "high speed" setting, and changing the output to nitrous 1. Correct me if I'm wrong, otherwise I'll post the result. lol.
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:35 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
The Mazda diagram is kind of confusing. 99/00:
Alternator field is 1O
Alt sense is 1T

are you even using 1T, you'd hook it up like I suggested in teh post before yours, correct?
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:46 PM   #38
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Moderators:
Should we move this over to the Megasquirt subforum?
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:52 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuyler View Post
So I will be simply hooking the alternator field wire from 1O to the nitrous 1 pwm, using the exact settings posted in Ben's first post aside from changing miata to the renamed "high speed" setting, and changing the output to nitrous 1. Correct me if I'm wrong, otherwise I'll post the result. lol.
PWM outputs supply ground, so me thinks you need to add a 12V pullup.
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:52 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestfieldMX5 View Post
PWM outputs supply ground, so me thinks you need to add a 12V pullup.
5V pullup, but otherwise correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
are you even using 1T, you'd hook it up like I suggested in teh post before yours, correct?
No, wire it like my post.
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