I took the 5V for the pullup from one of the bias resistor locations on the MS3X board and soldered a resistor on the bottom of the MS3X board. Seems to work just fine.

 

yeah, i see that now. I hadn't actually looked at the parameters/documentation on it.

 

Odd, why 5V?

 

Because that's how Mazda did it, and I haven't tested with a 12V pullup.

 

This is not working, anyone care to tell me what I'm doing wrong?

 

Not working for me either (although I'm using JS0). Just like the first iteration of the software control, I'm charging near 20V, didn't blow up anything this time.
Reverting back to hardware control.

 

this is why everyone loves MS. cause there's no documentation and no one can just get a simple answer on how to hook something up.

great job!

 

Works either way, as long as the pullup resistor is reasonable.

 

And the reason I've stopped building them. It's too time consuming trying to find all relevant information in several forums. And even then it's a nightmare.

Edit: gave it another try and tested with JS10 and that didn't work either. Then tried D15 to find out it's used by the knock sensor. Then I gave up. I used a 1K pullup to 5V each try.

 

Waiting for NA8 alternator prices to skyrocket.

 

Those are plentiful, any Mazda from about 94 to 98 usually have the same type (fitting, offset, connector, multirib, internal IC). At least the 323's and 626's I have raided.
A cheepo LED panel Voltmeter helps keep this **** in check.

 

Drives me potty. The devs on the forum mostly expect you to understand how they've coded stuff and why because they mentioned it on a random thread once.

Lack of docs is by far the worst thing about MS. There should be at least some documentation before any new feature is made available to the public.

Case in point, there's **** all on the LTFT feature, still.

 

Woah there with the hatin'. What's next? Asking for the source code for the current stable version?

 

Since you and Ben seem to be about the only people indicating you can get this to work properly, would you mine breaking down everything you've done and posting screenshots of your setup in the most idiotproof manor you can?

Why did I leave the board I bought from you at my house at school Frank? Why'd you let me do it? Was hoping I could get things working with this feature to save myself the trip to go get it. But since a lack of a functioning alternator system is the only thing keeping me from tuning, i'm getting annoyed to the point I might have to do just that, or have a roommate ship it. Car is idling great when hooked to a charger to keep the battery going.

 

Looks fine -- try non-inverted output.

 

I'll give that a shot tomorrow evening and report back. Car is a 99-00.

EDIT: I've seen it referenced more than once that nitrous 1/2 can only be used in certain applications. Would this be on of those applications it CANNOT be used?

 

 

LOL don't be so silly, that's not a reasonable request!

 

LOL, is this the point where I say I told you so?
Lost pretty much the entire afternoon on it yesterday . Not saying software control doesn't work, just that *I* couldn't get it running, just like the first iteration.
Figured I might as well install my board. 5 mins later, my battery voltage is rock solid to 0.1V precise and I can turn of the alternator at startup as well.

<Shrug and move on>

 

How *exactly* did you set up the hardware? On the face of it, this sounds like a hardware setup problem... and the schematics ARE available readily on line...

If you wired JS10 to Alt field with a 5V pullup, you're going to have a bad day. That should command the alternator at 100% duty cycle. JS10 might work for field control without a pullup, but I wouldn't try because I don't know how much current the field will sync.

If you add a pullup to JS0, you're going to have a bad day. JS0 switches between 12V and ground. It's a stepper output.

To use either of these pins, you should add additional hardware.

Why not use a spare PWM output with pullup as shown in my posts?