Just to make sure, this is only for MS3 and not yet available for diypnp, right?

 

Only MS3 and will never be available for DIYPNP (hardware limitations).

 

I'm so jelly of the ms3 guys. I guess i'll have to stick with my alternator circuit.

 

New firmware released to address voltage spike issue at sync loss:
Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) ? MS3 pre-1.4 beta 10 released (View topic)

 

Hi Ben,

I have the Alternator control running pretty well with my MS3pro Module on Franks Adpater board.

This new Beta got me thinking about the meaning of the Inverted vs. normal setting.
What does that mean and what setting are you using? (INverted as me I guess...)

 

Braineack, Did this firmware resolve your alternator problem?

 

MegaSquirtPNP Pro MM0105 for the 01-05 Mazda Miata, manual trans DIYAutoTune.com

MS3 PNP PRO ???

 

Yep - now available for '90-'93, '94-'95, and '01-'05 with a separate option for the Mazdaspeed. '99-'00 is up next. For those swapping an NB engine into an NA, any one of them will support the NB alternator control, just takes some minor wiring changes on an NA.

 

I'll have to check and see with the user. He hasn't emailed back about anymore trouble...

 

I've got the JasonC circuit in my DIYPNP and it works great.

I've got AC idle up worked out, the only oddity is when I turn on the headlights the idle dips about 100rpm. Wondering if this would influence performance under WOT?

Would this update address that issue? (were I to upgrade unit)

 

tune your voltage idle pwm% compensation table and turn on adaptive timing.

 

Thanks, i'll give that a look.

 

it's not a voltage issue, it's a MAP issue. I bet your volts don't move when you turn on the headlights, but the extra draw on the alternator makes the engine speed sag.

 

Bumping old post because its relevant to me, since the mazda 3 2 wire alternator seems to be electrically identical to the NB one. The MS3P manual says using a spark output is ok for the miata. That is correct and supersedes the info in this thread right? Also does it connect to the P or D wire? Manual says P and D sounds like it stands for Diagnostic but reading the FSM it makes it seem like D is the one connected to the power transistor and its the line you're supposed to scope to make sure the factory ECU is working right. Looking at how the alternator is wired I guess it can't hurt to try it either way till it works. Annoying that the mazda wiring diagram that shows you which wire does what doesnt show which connector pin it is and the one that says P and D on the connector doesnt show wire colors or what it does.