Is that a flywheel spacer? What the ****?

 

Those motor mounts, for whatever it's worth, look a lot like what AWR supplies for other chassis.

The rest of it looks pretty dreadful. Ebay headers, YUMMY.

 

HAHAHHA@!!!! I didn't even catch that the first time.


I bet it's to take up the space issue caused by the adapter plate.

 

I'll eat my hat if they didn't lower the steering rack dramatically, BTW.

 

LOL @ $3500 for that

 

This looks and smells like vapor ware. Someone is going to get the 3500 of the 3 club ricer members with that kind of money and walk away laughing.

 

That's probably a spacer/adapter for the input shaft-pilot bearing-flywheel connection. This is fairly typical in the hot rod world with transmission swaps- and I bet it's due to the adapter plate. What scares me is that subframe. I would think they could've at least made some concessions in the pan to allow gussets where the crossbar meets each side.

 

LFX mounting kit

if i'm in the market for a 6Cyl im doing the lfx kit. lfx engines start at 300hp and you get a trans that can take the power. not to mention the kit is almost $2k less. let not forget about the v8 roadsters customer service.


if you want super lightweight get the k swap, or do a 2006+ mx5 drivetrain.

 

I really like the idea of the LFX swap, but don't forget your going to need their rear diff setup as well, so figure another $2k - $2.5k for the 'kit' + a getrag diff. But you'll have a much more robust combo overall...

 

You dont need the diff. They should start selling a PPF eliminator kit for the stock diff though. The stock diff is going to take everything LFX would normally throw at it.

 

i'm not going to comment to much more but i will say it''s a V6. so the Tq is going to be much less than a ls1. a RX7 or 1.8 diff should be fairly happy. remember NA power is allot easier on components then turbo power.

 

Fair 'nuff. Stock TQ on the LFX is ~280, and a lot of turbo cars are doing that, or more. Though I have seen some broken mounting arms. I'd still be tempted to do the Getrag, then you'd never have to give it another thought, and you'd have better gearing options.

 

Its pretty hard to compare LFX pricing to this right now. For one the V8R kit as available now does not have everything sorted (flywheel and so on). This is actually sort of comprehensive from a mechanical standpoint.

My guess is that a LFX swap with a V8R kit is going to be twice the cost of this. Price out some LFXs. Cheapest I have seen reliably is about 1200 from LKQ. Crate Engine Depot wants like 4400 for one. And go ahead and let me know when you find an AY6 6 speed manual transmission for sale online. They are still not common. And that 1750 mounting kit does not have exhaust, clutch, throttle cable, and all the other little things figured yet.

GM stuff useable in swaps is rapidly falling into wine and cheeser/money to burn/ territory. T-56s are made of gold, the LS1 is your only option. Blah blah blah. Sucks.

J parts are all over the place and they are cheaper because they are inferior and common.

I will say that I would much prefer a LFX over a J. Its going to make more power, get better mileage, and GM ECUs are like Subbies in that they are easily tuned. I have no idea if Hondata works on J's or what its cost is. But GM ECUs are pretty flexible out of the box. And my bet is the V8R is higher quality by a lot. But this J setup looks darned economical at first glance. Weld some extra bracing and see what happens. It may be the ebay manifold of the swap world.

If I ever make any power at all, I'll try my luck with my 1.8 stuff and an OGK or hell OBX diff. Axles will probably fail long before anything else back there.

 

The $64k question with the J swap is what they've done with the steering rack...

 

I think this pretty much sums up what we're looking at with that photoshopped "kit" posted

 

I think they ended up moving the steering rack somewhere around 4 inches.

 

How well does a front sump work on a rwd vehicle? That's how they are fitting the starter, clever but will it work well under hard use? Especially since our engines are nose high. Unless they lowered the rack...a lot.

V8r did my t5 to factory diff driveshaft so that won't be an issue for their lfx kit. I paid for their steel and they sent me an alum shaft, nice bonus. But it wasn't balanced well.

A flywheel spacer is fine if the entire assy is machined so it's all concentric when assembled. If Chinese, it won't be.

Claire uses a spacer in her v6 kit. We need more of these in the states.
Crapengineering - the home of the KL V6 conversion . - Home

I'm slightly considering a similar kit that uses my style oil pan and the factory subframe but my car is too modified to use as a mockup car.

 

Aren't there factory front sump LSx cars? The j-series are definitely "front" sump from the factory, but they're obviously all in FWD cars.

I really wish they had implemented a starter solution like Claire uses with her KL swaps. This would have made rear sump possible and probably allowed them to keep the stock steering rack location because per the build thread on CR, the steering rack sits "about half an inch".

 

I realize its not the norm for this forum so it's quick to get poked fun at, but I actually think this swap has the potential to be awesome. The engines are dirt cheap, do have great power potential and sound great. It's no uncommon for these engines to make 300whp with boot ons and a tune. If you can get ~260whp for $5000-6000 I think that's about perfect. The small weight penalty makes no difference if your comparing it to the other option of a installing a turbo setup on the BP.

 

5-6k to make 260hp? Wouldnt you rather spend 3k to make 250 and weigh less and be able to be up and running in a weekend?