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Old 01-26-2015, 02:28 PM   #101
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On their site, they claim the conversion adds "about 40lbs to the front axle", indicating the J is slightly heavier than the BP. Not sure how AC/PS factor in, either before or after the swap. I agree with Leafy that this is going to put a lot more stress on the PPF and diff mounts with the entire weight of the motor forward of the mounts. Especially in track cars that are seeing 1+G corner loads. Also, their mount setup doesn't look beefy enough for that kind of loading, though it's hard to be definitive with the pics that they've posted.
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:07 PM   #102
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Put me in the category of "would do not do this swap"

-Ryan
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:27 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roda View Post
It would have been nice if they specified the direction in their answer...
When I spoke to the fabricator he told me the steering rack was lowered 1/2".

I think if you buy their adapter plate/flywheel spacer and then buy the v8 roadsters mount less subframe you'd be better off. The s2000s with these swaps use mounts on the side, not the adapter plate method. You'd gain ground clearance by changing that stupid bottom/center starter setup, too.
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:53 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corey View Post
I think if you buy their adapter plate/flywheel spacer and then buy the v8 roadsters mount less subframe you'd be better off.
/\ That…The guy in AU did the swap with side mounts, stock oil pan and a modded stock crossmember.
There's more than one way to skin a cat.
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:07 PM   #105
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infraction
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:08 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
lol @ 1/2" movement of steering rack not being "significant"

lol @ oil pan sitting below factory subframe
my oil pan sits level with the sub frame ( ls1, V8roadsters oil pan) and I've hit plenty with it. if it was a cast piece i'm sure i would have broken it once or twice. with this kit sitting lower and oem's love of cast = bad day.
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:13 PM   #107
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i dont see the problem:

Attached Thumbnails
Honda 3.5L V6 swap-oilpan_hanging_front.jpg  
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Old 01-28-2015, 04:48 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corey View Post
You'd gain ground clearance by changing that stupid bottom/center starter setup, too.
But then how would you start it? Push starting would get old fast.

If you do it Claire's KL way, you'd need to find a reverse rotation starter that works with the flywheel tooth pitch (OEM Honda if those mount on the trans side) then create your own mounting brackets inside/thru the bell housing.
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:05 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
But then how would you start it? Push starting would get old fast.

If you do it Claire's KL way, you'd need to find a reverse rotation starter that works with the flywheel tooth pitch (OEM Honda if those mount on the trans side) then create your own mounting brackets inside/thru the bell housing.
B-series engines rotate CCW. J-series rotate CW. The swap setup is using a b-series starter under the oil pan (engine side). Using a j-series on the transmission side would obviously mimic the factory setup on all oem j-series setups. I agree that a mount setup would have to be made similar to Claire's starter setup for the KL swaps and the bell housing would need modifications.
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:30 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
i dont see the problem:

Is that an actual picture of the swap?
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:50 PM   #111
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Yes, but with the optional recirculating ball steering upgrade.
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Old 01-29-2015, 09:31 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williams805 View Post
Yes, but with the optional recirculating ball steering upgrade.
and the ford 9" solid rear axle..
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Old 01-29-2015, 04:17 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Is that an actual picture of the swap?
no, i think i googled bad engine swaps.
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Old 01-29-2015, 04:18 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
no, i think i googled bad engine swaps.
Lol I realized that after seeing the steering links.
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Old 02-21-2015, 02:18 PM   #115
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Some pictures from miata.net of the shop car:



Attached Thumbnails
Honda 3.5L V6 swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257437.979343.jpg   Honda 3.5L V6 swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257411.683531.jpg   Honda 3.5L V6 swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257383.385907.jpg   Honda 3.5L V6 swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257397.493260.jpg   Honda 3.5L V6 swap-133720d1424542669-honda-3-5l-v6-swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257437.979343.jpg  

Honda 3.5L V6 swap-133721d1424542669-honda-3-5l-v6-swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257411.683531.jpg   Honda 3.5L V6 swap-133722d1424542669-honda-3-5l-v6-swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257383.385907.jpg   Honda 3.5L V6 swap-133723d1424542669-honda-3-5l-v6-swap-imageuploadedbymx5-miata.net1423257397.493260.jpg  
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Old 02-21-2015, 03:05 PM   #116
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Is the starter the lowest point on the car now? Al least it's kind of close to the axle center line.
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:45 PM   #117
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It looks like a 12 year old welded that exhaust. I don't know if I trust that welding quality for the subframe pieces...
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:26 AM   #118
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In before starter left on speed bump.
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:16 AM   #119
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looks like the front sump might protect the starter
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:21 AM   #120
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this just keeps getting worse
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