Honda intake manifold
See if any of your local metal suppliers list their drops on their website. If not you'll have to call them and ask them about their drops. I loved getting 5 pieces of 2.5" 6061 tube for practically nothing, they were 47 7/8" I'm assuming someone ordered some pieces pre-cut to 48" and they fucked up cutting them.
They always seem to have something I need in their ohio warehouse. And have an $80 minimum for shipped orders so I have so much random metal that I "may need for something" that normally only costs 5 or 10 bucks to get the the minimum just sitting in a corner in my apartment.
let's see how long mine will last.. 
above:

there's a V -shaped support plate on top of the every runner
below:

Support plates/ribs there also. (don't mind the burned spots. my desk caught fire during pre-heating)
This is the last time I’m going to repair that ****. If it broke one more time I’m going back to the OEM flat-top

above:

there's a V -shaped support plate on top of the every runner
below:

Support plates/ribs there also. (don't mind the burned spots. my desk caught fire during pre-heating)
This is the last time I’m going to repair that ****. If it broke one more time I’m going back to the OEM flat-top
Better late than never. Godspeed intake manifold for GSR (Blox/skunk knockoff). I have the Godspeed throttle as well (again, same specs as blox).
Water-jet cut flange, based off of the original intake mani flange.




Water-jet cut flange, based off of the original intake mani flange.




Nice job Aaron. Best one I have seen yet. Be sure to support the manifold so you don't waste your efforts.
If mine fails again I maybe asking you about that flange.
If mine fails again I maybe asking you about that flange.
Yes, and it need to actually be like the stock brace, not just a stupid rod end jobby, unless you put a rod end setup on the front and the back of the manifold.
Beautiful work for sure!
My question is about the ports.....when I did this the ports on the manifold were MUCH larger than those on the flange and the transition is rather obvious. I don't see where your runners taper and I wonder if the ports on the head will match those on the manifold or will there be an abrupt transition there? I plan to do another one of these by modifying the flange and not welding a mazda flange on it hopes of a stronger design.
Either way, you do great work!
My question is about the ports.....when I did this the ports on the manifold were MUCH larger than those on the flange and the transition is rather obvious. I don't see where your runners taper and I wonder if the ports on the head will match those on the manifold or will there be an abrupt transition there? I plan to do another one of these by modifying the flange and not welding a mazda flange on it hopes of a stronger design.
Either way, you do great work!
I wanted to be able to go back to a madza manifold I guess? I thought others were welding the madza flange on and making the transition in the manifold as to not do any permanent changes to the head?
Thanks. I've already been thinking about a bracing solution. Have a friend with a welder(s), we'll have to see what we can come up with.
Before the porting/smoothing work was done it looked pretty rough. The flange ports and runners line up pretty close, and are close to the same size, but yeah it was not perfect. My manifold was cut right at the flange, a tiny, tiny bit "higher' of a cut may work a little better. At the end of the day, good porting/blending work with the die grinder will make it work. The 2 outer ports don't line as quite as well and aren't quite as nice as the single pic I posted above, but it still has a decently smooth transition, etc.
Before the porting/smoothing work was done it looked pretty rough. The flange ports and runners line up pretty close, and are close to the same size, but yeah it was not perfect. My manifold was cut right at the flange, a tiny, tiny bit "higher' of a cut may work a little better. At the end of the day, good porting/blending work with the die grinder will make it work. The 2 outer ports don't line as quite as well and aren't quite as nice as the single pic I posted above, but it still has a decently smooth transition, etc.
Guy in Pensacola did the flange.... Bogus outsourced it to another guy, I'm not sure what his name/contact info is. I told him as soon as the you guys on MT saw that flange they'd all be wanting one, lol.
I need to check and see if I have a drawing of the intake flange kicking around on my hard drive. I'd be totally cool with uploading it in, dwg, dxf, sldrprt, stp, and iges, which should cover every freaking piece of software and mechanism for cutting one.
The guy who made mine isn't doing too well health-wise these days... but I will ask a few questions to see if there's any desire on his end to sell a few more, if there's interest on here.
We have a #4771 Edelbrock Performer-X at the fabricator being put together this week. For an N/A engine with stock or mild race cams, we want the runners just a shade under 11" long. Most aftermarket Honda B series manifold are based on the Type R B18C with shorter runners. The Performer is a bit longer and smaller volume runner so it's closer to our target. A friend did some controlled testing of various runner lengths on a supercharged BP4W head and found best power at around 10.5" runner length. Not sure how that applies to turbos but I have a feeling they'll respond best to the same runner lengths. This all assumes stock (3000-7200) or slightly higher powerband with cams/porting (4000-8200).
The obstacle in our case is making it fit with the NB's ABS pump in the OEM location with those longer runners. So we're making a new bracket for the ABS pump and shoving it over a few inches. If it fits and makes any power, I'll post pics.
The obstacle in our case is making it fit with the NB's ABS pump in the OEM location with those longer runners. So we're making a new bracket for the ABS pump and shoving it over a few inches. If it fits and makes any power, I'll post pics.
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1-2 heim joints, either two from below or one from above and another from below should stabilize it. Aaron, let us know how your intake fares; I'd love to see regular manifold vs your new intake if you get a chance.
Is there a larger TBody that has an IAC valve similar to OEM? For those of us considering this for our DD cars.. I don't want a terrible idle.
Is there a larger TBody that has an IAC valve similar to OEM? For those of us considering this for our DD cars.. I don't want a terrible idle.
Last edited by Der_Idiot; Aug 23, 2013 at 05:36 PM.









