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Old 06-18-2011, 08:02 PM   #181
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just to update. overflow is empty, took what, two weeks?

Plug #2 is dark around the insulator compared to the rest, starting to look worn where the rest look perfect.

Either my HG is leaking coolant into #2 or my IM gasket is leaking water into #2.
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:17 PM   #182
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if the coolant is dissapearing and no where to be seen, I'm guessing headgasket.
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:52 PM   #183
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vs.

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Old 06-19-2011, 12:57 AM   #184
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This thread sucks because you failed to do what everyone recommended on page 1 which was leakdown test.
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:21 AM   #185
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I didn't need any recommendation to know this. I would have done it first if I had the means at the moment.
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:27 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I didn't need any recommendation to know this. I would have done it first if I had the means at the moment.
Like driving down the street to a shop and paying $20 for them to do it. This way you would not have wasted so much time trying to figure it out.
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:46 AM   #187
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Quote:
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I didn't need any recommendation to know this. I would have done it first if I had the means at the moment.
No means for the past month? I thought you had a tester at your dad's 40 minutes away? I will pick it up for you.
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:52 PM   #188
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new fun.

when a/c is running idle goes to ****. causes MS loose control of idle valve and shoot up idle speed.

only at fan speed 3 and 4. I have alt noise now when a/c runs through speaker.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:47 AM   #189
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Any way to tell before hand if it is a headgasket or IM gasket? I'd hate to pull the head if it is just an intake manifold.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:50 AM   #190
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I'm getting a leak-down tester this week and will be testing it sometime soon.

This issue with my a/c is most important at the moment. Car still runs with whatever issue I might have, but with the idle being uncontrollable when I turn my a/c on and fan speed above #2, is a big issue.

I can acutally log the MS driving the idle duty up and being unable to maintain a target. There's no rythme or reason, it just opens the valve fully, slowly comes back down, and ramps back up again-saw tooth. If I turn the fan speed down to #3, the effect is lessened, at #2 it hardly happens. But it seems that the PID is letting go for some reason.

This is only when I have the a/c adder code turned on with my MS, car runs perfect without running the a/c, so I think i have some sort of fault fubaring the system. Been talking the Ken about it...kinda clueless right now.

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Old 06-28-2011, 02:56 PM   #191
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(zack morris's phone)

Just lost my ac. The fan blower only works at speed 4 but the compressor wont run. My lc1 at the same time locked at full lean. After a reset it kicked back to life but the ac is dead :(

Any clues what to check first
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:50 PM   #192
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Tap 12V to the compressor manually from the blue connector just behind the driver's side headlight - does the compressor engage?
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:57 PM   #193
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(zack morris's phone)

Ill have to check tomorrow. Then check the relay then the resistor pack then the hvac toggle unit.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:11 PM   #194
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(zack morris's phone)

Easy check will be if ac cooling fan runs.


Quote:
1991 white,
The problem is unlikely and uncommon to be an unaltered Blower Motor Relay problem. If window wipers work confirm by finding 12V at blower's blue wire (under the dash). If not, before concluding Blower Motor Relay, check Fuse Block (under dash) 30A circuit breaker (red push-in reset button near center of Fuse Block). However, the problem's quite unlikely to be the circuit breaker open. Canadian 91 Miatas have no Blower Motor Relay.

The most common problem, if window wipers also don't work, is the electrical part of the car's key switch. Although the weight of hanging keys may appear to the casual observer to be the problem, that's a common misconception. Oxidation of the electrical contacts within the electrical part of the key switch is most often the problem. It most often is a problem after a period of non-use, even for unused Miatas when new. Once used, if left unattended that can result in internal overheating and melting. If melting has not yet occurred then a solution that often works long term is to simply turn all of the car's electrics you can off, then rotate the key switch through its positions as many times as you can for around a half minute or so. Doing that most often well cleans the oxidation from the electrical contacting points. If that's not successful then replace the electrical part of the key switch. When internal melting has occurred dissembling to better clean may not be successful solution.

The next most common problem, when the blower fan continues to work in its highest speed switched position, but not one or more of the others, is the Resistor Assembly for the blower motor. It's located under the blower motor unit under the dash, near the interior firewall. Replace the Resistor Assembly. It simply removes by its two screws (find blue/yellow, blue/green, blue/red and blue/white wires to it). The Resistor Assembly requires adequate blower fan cooling for long term operations. So, when one has gone bad it's a very good idea to check that the blower fan runs and turns smoothly, freely and up to full speed, and that there's not air flow restrictions in the system.

-Jeff Anderson

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Old 06-28-2011, 06:59 PM   #195
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resistor pack blew-it was fine yesterday.

I have a fault in my engine bay; car wouldn't start and i heard sparks flying when i tried to start it.

My coolant reroute pipe was energized and blowing sparks when i just tried to start the car. I wiggled it around and it was hitting the alternator bolt. I moved wires around off it and the sparks stopped and car started.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:18 PM   #196
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back to square one, cant find the fault or why it happened. could not get it to re-energize again went through all the wiring right there. Car runs again, fan speeds 3 and 4 still cause the MS to increase the idle duty and drive up the rpms. I gotta find this stupid fault.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:21 AM   #197
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thread title change and no love.

This electrical failure has me wondering, I have a ground fault for sure, just dunno where to start looking.



leakdown tester has been ordered and will be performed soon, but I wonder if my issues dont just stem from this obvious voltage dumping to ground.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:13 PM   #198
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How many problems does your car need before it's taken off the road? Jeebus.

Along with the leak down test, I'd have the alternator tested, and of course double check all the big grounding straps.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:20 PM   #199
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the alt is "new" paid a large chunk of change for it at autozone. This all started maybe 2 weeks after I replaced it.

a/c issue started last week, got out of control on Monday. It was that the idle would surge randomly when I was using the a/c, just every now and again without reason the MS would increase the idle when the a/c was running and idling smoothly. It started happening more frequently, not it's to the point I cant have the MS idle up with a/c otherwise it's getting confused and causing the idle skyrocket.

Something on the a/c circuit has got to be failing and dumping more and more voltage to ground. No idea what lead to the sparks in the engine bay, crazy random.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:25 PM   #200
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its a sign that you need a built 1.8 and MOAR BOOST
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