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Old 06-30-2011, 11:31 PM   #221
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could you ms be sending 12v back to the wiper motor like this ?

I wonder what else is connected to that joint connector, could it be the air bag circuit ?
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:42 PM   #222
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actually but through the blower motor, if i unplug the connector at g-01 the problem goes away.

EDIT: let me make that more clear. If I unplug the 12v side of the blower motor (which comes from the HEATER fuse), the crazy idle issue goes away. I'm getting a new resistor pack shipped, but I'm unsure if that's the issue or the blower motor itself.

the other issues where the voltage is flowing through the fuse panel i haven't figured out yet.

my sparks were coming from the starter, a had loosened a hose clamp that was hold a small section of hose to protect the pipe against rubbing the alternator bolt. I never refashioned it into position after I swapped my alternator last month. It crept all the way back and was able to make contact, that energized the pipe and when it hit the alternator bracket it sparked.

Last edited by Braineack; 07-01-2011 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:58 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
yes, it is. actually but through the blower motor, if i unplug the connector at g-01 the problem goes away.
does unplugging g-01 make your other problems go away ?
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:32 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revlimiter View Post
I'm totally shooting in the dark here.

Have you checked all of the wires below/around your coolant pipe? If it bridged the alternator, it seems like it could also mess with the starter motor.

As for your air bag fuse.... perhaps scrutinize your airbag sensors? Maybe a lot of voltage running across them suddenly was bad?

Holy **** your pony is so ******* cute. <3


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yeah like i said losts of wires around coolant pipe, going to disassemble it all and see
Can you post a bunch of pics of your engine bay? High res?
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:37 AM   #225
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Quote:
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I'm getting a new resistor pack shipped, but I'm unsure if that's the issue or the blower motor itself.
A bad motor will short straight through if the windings are cooked. If your alternator was shooting sparks, it probably pushed too much current through the motor and burned it out. I had a starter motor do that on a Datsum pickup. Turn key to start, and fried wiring resulted.
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:41 AM   #226
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the resistor pack is getting hot as **** when the blower is running too. but yeah, I'd be more inclined to thing the current is passing through the motor, although it still blows strong.

Last edited by Braineack; 07-01-2011 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:01 AM   #227
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this might explain the airbag fuse, I wonder if that shield wire is joining the two on the 12v side??





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I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows-airbag_circuit.jpg   I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows-2011-07-01_08-03-32_147.jpg   I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows-2011-07-01_08-03-39_290.jpg   I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows-2011-07-01_08-03-43_875.jpg   I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows-2011-07-01_08-03-52_602.jpg  


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Old 07-01-2011, 10:38 AM   #228
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I believe you have grounding issues. Bizzare electrical behavior almost always are the result of bad grounds.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:40 AM   #229
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havent touched my grounds in a while, never had an issue before the alternator diedz. In fact I have 4 extra grounds running directly from my ECU to the fuel rail through 18awg wire.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:09 AM   #230
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Why not just start simply, and eyeball every single wire in your engine bay? Your engine bay is much fuller than mine but it still should only take about an hour. I would cut open the looms too.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:37 AM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Why not just start simply, and eyeball every single wire in your engine bay? Your engine bay is much fuller than mine but it still should only take about an hour. I would cut open the looms too.

I plan to. I plan to at least remove the ign and fuel harnesses and poke around back there.

Right now I'm going through the wiring diagrams on paper to see how power can get to some of the spots I found when pulling fuses.

For example:
how/why does pulling my engine fuse activate my a/c relay? The engine fuse powers the main relay and the cooling fan relay. The main relay itself provides power to the the injectors, and CAS. The a/c relay is linked to teh cooling fan through the ground side of the relays, the thermowswitch and the diaganostics box.


why does pulling my air bag fuse remove power to one side of the wiper fuse?


Can someone confirm those double dashed lines are in fact shielding?

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Old 07-01-2011, 01:00 PM   #232
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When you have ground issues, voltage appears to move backwards, common occurance.

For kicks and giggles, have your alternator checked. We have purchased bad starters and alternators every once in a while.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:10 PM   #233
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ugh i hate removing it.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:22 PM   #234
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Sounds like you hate doing anything, all you've done is call on everyone for help and change the thread title a couple times. Oh, and felt a resistor pack.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:49 PM   #235
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lol. ive totally cried a little too.


after fooling around just now, i'm pretty sure my ground loop issues all steam from my MS. I might just build a new mainboard from scratch. I have other two MSes and harness at home I can test this theory on.
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:02 PM   #236
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Wait a sec... Why does this thread have my name on it?
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:09 PM   #237
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why not?



when i remove MS all my ground loop noise in speakers dissapears, also, my a/c doesn't activate when i pull the engine fuse anymore...im pretty sure it's the cause.
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:35 PM   #238
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Quote:
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the resistor pack is getting hot as **** when the blower is running too. but yeah, I'd be more inclined to thing the current is passing through the motor, although it still blows strong.
Those resistors get hella hot, thats why they put them in the moving air stream from the blower motor... They're super low resistance, high wattage deals... The higher the wattage the resistor the more heat it puts off. Those resistors work by soaking up power that would otherwise be running the blower motor faster.
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:37 PM   #239
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Quote:
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Can someone confirm those double dashed lines are in fact shielding?
those are harness connector outlines.

what the **** is a 'backup battery'??
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:43 PM   #240
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for the airbag control unit, so it never dies!
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