I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows - Page 8 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-07-2011, 12:25 AM   #141
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 138
Total Cats: 0
Default

I didn't include it in that post
Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
are you including the time it takes to acquire the air compressor and leakdown tester?

A clogged cat would be sluggish all through the rev range, not just at idle from what I've experienced. But then again things work differently in Australia
ampz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 05:03 AM   #142
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,658
Total Cats: 39
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
BLAH...fwiw, my idle screw is maxed. I cannot lower the idle speed any further mechanically. I had to lower it a full 360 to still hit my 850RPM idle target when this issue first happened. That made me first think vacuum leak, but like I said, I can't find one.
There must be a vac leak somewhere. I'd suggest you keep looking for it. maybe this vac leak is causing you to leak at certain temps which is what's buggering up the idle MAP and consequently the idle stability.

Still running the stock PCV valve? Try plugging it.
richyvrlimited is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 10:23 AM   #143
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

I still dont see how a simple vacuum leak would cause the issues. I could see increased idle speed, but not the rest of it.

I'm suffering from poor throttle response (especially on a cold motor), inconsistent AFRs, misfires at idle, oscillating/senestive engine at idle.

When I pull out of my parking space in the morning, I have to be careful not to continue rolling backwards, I can hit hte throttle and there is a delay before the car lurches forward. This improves as the motor warms. When warm, the car hesistates between shifts and jerks when applying throttle from 0%. My enrichments are still there, but no amount of fuel injecting is helping. I've gone from 0-50% AE and that only makes it backfire the more fuel I dump in.

When I thought it was the HG it was the idea that water was getting into the mix, which would probably cause all the above, but I'm really not losing enough water to back-up that theory.

I would think the same of the IM gasket, but again, while I do have some slight water loss over a few weeks, I don't believe it's enough.

I threw the clogged cat idea out there because I'm just trying to think of anything I haven't before. I could see some of the symptoms, but I dont really have much power loss, maybe a slightly slower spool, but I'm on straight wastegate, feels great in boost. My MPG has suffered a little, but I also have EGO off.

I'm going to check my #1 spark plug today to see if it has yellowed now that I moved the #2 coil onto it. I looked at my TB again last night with y8s and it's good.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 02:19 PM   #144
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

runs worse with the a/c-all symptoms are amplified. stalled it once, the rpms drop at an aggressive rate I'm not used to.

As your Admin, I order you to fix my car!
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 02:33 PM   #145
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bellingham, Wa
Posts: 2,732
Total Cats: 3
Default

My car also runs like **** when cold. It is fine once warmed up a little though so I never really worried about it and figured it was just a matter of tuning it out which I never have time for. Hmmmm.
wayne_curr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 02:41 PM   #146
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

It doesnt run like **** when cold, the tip-in is worse, but drives more or less the same.

The warmer it is, the greater chance of a misfire at idle.


basically the car wants me to sell it.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 02:59 PM   #147
y8s
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
 
y8s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,038
Total Cats: 407
Default

reenable EAE and increase your CLT based enhanced enrichments?
y8s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 03:46 PM   #148
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

if adding/subtracting any amount of enrichments is not helping...how will that help?

a faulty/sluggish/leaky/irregular injector could cause the issue and maybe I need to take what's his face up on his offer for the stock blue-top injectors. But there was really no improvement on your purple 240cc ones.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 04:57 PM   #149
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Any chance you have a set of stock coils and plugs you could throw on real quick and then run it in batch.
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 05:36 PM   #150
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

i dont handy, but i was going to try to run the cops in batch on my mainboard outputs and see how it reacts.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2011, 11:16 PM   #151
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 138
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
but here's the latest issue I'm having...

This all started after my alternator failed, it did so in a way that allowed huge 17+ voltage spikes. My boost solenoid seems to have been vicitim of it, and my TPS signal has become very unstable as well, it was never perfect, but it's worse now.
Wait a second, if you boost solenoid crapped out, what about your IAC solenoid?
Maybe it is fubar as well. Have you checked its winding resistance?
Should be around 12 ohms from the factory manual.

Apologies if you've answered/checked the IAC already, I must have missed that post.
ampz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:20 AM   #152
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

It operates perfectly so far as I can tell. Are you suggesting that maybe under certain conditions it's acutally causing the oscillation, even though I'm outputs a stable pwm%?



I was actually pretty excited there for a moment this morning. I switched to my mainboard outputs and ran it in wasted spark. After warmup I noticed I was idling at an AFR i was used to, albeit a little unstable, it was the leanest I've seen it idle on my same fuel map.

However, After the light went green and I turned a corner and had to come back to idle, the AFrs dropped back where they have been lately.

Luckily I took a log, take a look. RPMs are the same, but the PW is actually less and suddenly it starts showing the AFRs 2 points richer when I cam back to idle. I'm looking at and AFR of ~14.5:1 @ ~1.84ms, then later on the log at similar RPM points ~12.8:1 @ 1.79-1.81ms of PW.

But you can also see it starts pulling more vacuum during hte later half of the log, and the CLT temp is about 10 warmer. This is exactly what I was saying. Once the car gets a little warmer, all of a sudden I pull more vacuum and idle richer.

I'll try different coils just to see, but I wouldn't understand how they could work but not work, ya know? Car is running on all 4, and all the outputs work as intended when I check the injector and spark outputs on the car.
Attached Files
File Type: msl 2011-06-08_07.53.56.msl (398.2 KB, 56 views)
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:31 AM   #153
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
It operates perfectly so far as I can tell. Are you suggesting that maybe under certain conditions it's acutally causing the oscillation, even though I'm outputs a stable pwm%?



I was actually pretty excited there for a moment this morning. I switched to my mainboard outputs and ran it in wasted spark. After warmup I noticed I was idling at an AFR i was used to, albeit a little unstable, it was the leanest I've seen it idle on my same fuel map.

However, After the light went green and I turned a corner and had to come back to idle, the AFrs dropped back where they have been lately.

Luckily I took a log, take a look. PW and RPMs are the same, but suddenly it starts showing the AFRs 2 points richer when I cam back to idle.

I'll try different coils just to see, but I wouldn't understand how they could work but not work, ya know? Car is running on all 4, and all the outputs work as intended when I check the injector and spark outputs on the car.
My only thought is that the spark isn't lasting long enough for a complete burn, or isn't timed correctly. Both of which would lead to a rich condition.

That's why I keep harping on the capacitors. If there is some voltage drop that the capacitors are compensating, then the capacitors have to charge before the coils will get energy, which could implement a delay or weak spark. Or the injection timing at idle is injecting a little too late. I'm using your injection timing table. How long have you been running that table. If fuel is being dumped into the cylinder too late, then this would have the same effect.

Running old coils would completely eliminate the COPs as a problem.
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:36 AM   #154
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Example. I have an intake cam gear that I cant remember if it is retarded or advanced 8 degrees. Should I be taking this intake account for my injector timing??? At least at idle?
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:41 AM   #155
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

probably -/+ whatever it's advanced.

I've been running that injection timing table for almost a year now. I've gone to pretty far extremes with it at idle and felt no significant change.

My table injects (end-of-squirt) around 375 at idle, which puts the fuel at the intake valve 10 before it opens, at 365.

the capacitor on my cop harness has been taken out of the equation.

Last edited by Braineack; 06-08-2011 at 09:43 AM. Reason: quirt)
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:45 AM   #156
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
probably -/+ whatever it's advanced.

I've been running that injection timing table for almost a year now. I've gone to pretty far extremes with it at idle and felt no significant change.

My table injects (end-of-squirt) around 375 at idle, which puts the fuel at the intake valve 10 before it opens, at 365.

the capacitor on my cop harness has been taken out of the equation.
So if retarded 7 degrees, then run 375 + 7 = 382. Would you do this to the entire table? I'm guessing yes.

My best guess now is COPs, and then vac leak.

Last edited by miatauser884; 06-08-2011 at 09:55 AM.
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:52 AM   #157
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

I would yes.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:56 AM   #158
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I would yes.
did the direction I went with my math make sense for retarding the intake gear?
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 10:00 AM   #159
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,872
Total Cats: 1,790
Default

yes.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 10:07 AM   #160
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

It's been wicked hot here so I haven't been driving the miata. Tomorrow I will drive it and add the changes that seem to make sense. I'm adjusting my injectors to the correct deadtime, and I am adjusting my injection timing to compensate for my cam gear. I'll autotune and then try to get a stable idle.
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1994 Spec Miata Race Car SM/SM2/SSM For Sale Quinn Cars for sale/trade 6 10-23-2016 08:58 AM
No spark while cranking? navalhawkeye MEGAsquirt 9 10-07-2015 08:10 PM
Odd Steering issue interestedofold Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 09-29-2015 02:42 PM
ME221 Now has Autotune and Long Term Fuel Trim Tables Motorsport-Electronics ECUs and Tuning 0 09-05-2015 09:02 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:43 AM.