I Threw Gasoline On The Fire And Now I Have Stumps For Arms And No Eyebrows
#142
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Still running the stock PCV valve? Try plugging it.
#143
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I still dont see how a simple vacuum leak would cause the issues. I could see increased idle speed, but not the rest of it.
I'm suffering from poor throttle response (especially on a cold motor), inconsistent AFRs, misfires at idle, oscillating/senestive engine at idle.
When I pull out of my parking space in the morning, I have to be careful not to continue rolling backwards, I can hit hte throttle and there is a delay before the car lurches forward. This improves as the motor warms. When warm, the car hesistates between shifts and jerks when applying throttle from 0%. My enrichments are still there, but no amount of fuel injecting is helping. I've gone from 0-50% AE and that only makes it backfire the more fuel I dump in.
When I thought it was the HG it was the idea that water was getting into the mix, which would probably cause all the above, but I'm really not losing enough water to back-up that theory.
I would think the same of the IM gasket, but again, while I do have some slight water loss over a few weeks, I don't believe it's enough.
I threw the clogged cat idea out there because I'm just trying to think of anything I haven't before. I could see some of the symptoms, but I dont really have much power loss, maybe a slightly slower spool, but I'm on straight wastegate, feels great in boost. My MPG has suffered a little, but I also have EGO off.
I'm going to check my #1 spark plug today to see if it has yellowed now that I moved the #2 coil onto it. I looked at my TB again last night with y8s and it's good.
I'm suffering from poor throttle response (especially on a cold motor), inconsistent AFRs, misfires at idle, oscillating/senestive engine at idle.
When I pull out of my parking space in the morning, I have to be careful not to continue rolling backwards, I can hit hte throttle and there is a delay before the car lurches forward. This improves as the motor warms. When warm, the car hesistates between shifts and jerks when applying throttle from 0%. My enrichments are still there, but no amount of fuel injecting is helping. I've gone from 0-50% AE and that only makes it backfire the more fuel I dump in.
When I thought it was the HG it was the idea that water was getting into the mix, which would probably cause all the above, but I'm really not losing enough water to back-up that theory.
I would think the same of the IM gasket, but again, while I do have some slight water loss over a few weeks, I don't believe it's enough.
I threw the clogged cat idea out there because I'm just trying to think of anything I haven't before. I could see some of the symptoms, but I dont really have much power loss, maybe a slightly slower spool, but I'm on straight wastegate, feels great in boost. My MPG has suffered a little, but I also have EGO off.
I'm going to check my #1 spark plug today to see if it has yellowed now that I moved the #2 coil onto it. I looked at my TB again last night with y8s and it's good.
#146
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It doesnt run like **** when cold, the tip-in is worse, but drives more or less the same.
The warmer it is, the greater chance of a misfire at idle.
basically the car wants me to sell it.
The warmer it is, the greater chance of a misfire at idle.
basically the car wants me to sell it.
#148
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if adding/subtracting any amount of enrichments is not helping...how will that help?
a faulty/sluggish/leaky/irregular injector could cause the issue and maybe I need to take what's his face up on his offer for the stock blue-top injectors. But there was really no improvement on your purple 240cc ones.
a faulty/sluggish/leaky/irregular injector could cause the issue and maybe I need to take what's his face up on his offer for the stock blue-top injectors. But there was really no improvement on your purple 240cc ones.
#151
but here's the latest issue I'm having...
This all started after my alternator failed, it did so in a way that allowed huge 17+ voltage spikes. My boost solenoid seems to have been vicitim of it, and my TPS signal has become very unstable as well, it was never perfect, but it's worse now.
This all started after my alternator failed, it did so in a way that allowed huge 17+ voltage spikes. My boost solenoid seems to have been vicitim of it, and my TPS signal has become very unstable as well, it was never perfect, but it's worse now.
Maybe it is fubar as well. Have you checked its winding resistance?
Should be around 12 ohms from the factory manual.
Apologies if you've answered/checked the IAC already, I must have missed that post.
#152
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It operates perfectly so far as I can tell. Are you suggesting that maybe under certain conditions it's acutally causing the oscillation, even though I'm outputs a stable pwm%?
I was actually pretty excited there for a moment this morning. I switched to my mainboard outputs and ran it in wasted spark. After warmup I noticed I was idling at an AFR i was used to, albeit a little unstable, it was the leanest I've seen it idle on my same fuel map.
However, After the light went green and I turned a corner and had to come back to idle, the AFrs dropped back where they have been lately.
Luckily I took a log, take a look. RPMs are the same, but the PW is actually less and suddenly it starts showing the AFRs 2 points richer when I cam back to idle. I'm looking at and AFR of ~14.5:1 @ ~1.84ms, then later on the log at similar RPM points ~12.8:1 @ 1.79-1.81ms of PW.
But you can also see it starts pulling more vacuum during hte later half of the log, and the CLT temp is about 10° warmer. This is exactly what I was saying. Once the car gets a little warmer, all of a sudden I pull more vacuum and idle richer.
I'll try different coils just to see, but I wouldn't understand how they could work but not work, ya know? Car is running on all 4, and all the outputs work as intended when I check the injector and spark outputs on the car.
I was actually pretty excited there for a moment this morning. I switched to my mainboard outputs and ran it in wasted spark. After warmup I noticed I was idling at an AFR i was used to, albeit a little unstable, it was the leanest I've seen it idle on my same fuel map.
However, After the light went green and I turned a corner and had to come back to idle, the AFrs dropped back where they have been lately.
Luckily I took a log, take a look. RPMs are the same, but the PW is actually less and suddenly it starts showing the AFRs 2 points richer when I cam back to idle. I'm looking at and AFR of ~14.5:1 @ ~1.84ms, then later on the log at similar RPM points ~12.8:1 @ 1.79-1.81ms of PW.
But you can also see it starts pulling more vacuum during hte later half of the log, and the CLT temp is about 10° warmer. This is exactly what I was saying. Once the car gets a little warmer, all of a sudden I pull more vacuum and idle richer.
I'll try different coils just to see, but I wouldn't understand how they could work but not work, ya know? Car is running on all 4, and all the outputs work as intended when I check the injector and spark outputs on the car.
#153
It operates perfectly so far as I can tell. Are you suggesting that maybe under certain conditions it's acutally causing the oscillation, even though I'm outputs a stable pwm%?
I was actually pretty excited there for a moment this morning. I switched to my mainboard outputs and ran it in wasted spark. After warmup I noticed I was idling at an AFR i was used to, albeit a little unstable, it was the leanest I've seen it idle on my same fuel map.
However, After the light went green and I turned a corner and had to come back to idle, the AFrs dropped back where they have been lately.
Luckily I took a log, take a look. PW and RPMs are the same, but suddenly it starts showing the AFRs 2 points richer when I cam back to idle.
I'll try different coils just to see, but I wouldn't understand how they could work but not work, ya know? Car is running on all 4, and all the outputs work as intended when I check the injector and spark outputs on the car.
I was actually pretty excited there for a moment this morning. I switched to my mainboard outputs and ran it in wasted spark. After warmup I noticed I was idling at an AFR i was used to, albeit a little unstable, it was the leanest I've seen it idle on my same fuel map.
However, After the light went green and I turned a corner and had to come back to idle, the AFrs dropped back where they have been lately.
Luckily I took a log, take a look. PW and RPMs are the same, but suddenly it starts showing the AFRs 2 points richer when I cam back to idle.
I'll try different coils just to see, but I wouldn't understand how they could work but not work, ya know? Car is running on all 4, and all the outputs work as intended when I check the injector and spark outputs on the car.
That's why I keep harping on the capacitors. If there is some voltage drop that the capacitors are compensating, then the capacitors have to charge before the coils will get energy, which could implement a delay or weak spark. Or the injection timing at idle is injecting a little too late. I'm using your injection timing table. How long have you been running that table. If fuel is being dumped into the cylinder too late, then this would have the same effect.
Running old coils would completely eliminate the COPs as a problem.
#155
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probably -/+ whatever it's advanced.
I've been running that injection timing table for almost a year now. I've gone to pretty far extremes with it at idle and felt no significant change.
My table injects (end-of-squirt) around 375° at idle, which puts the fuel at the intake valve 10° before it opens, at 365°.
the capacitor on my cop harness has been taken out of the equation.
I've been running that injection timing table for almost a year now. I've gone to pretty far extremes with it at idle and felt no significant change.
My table injects (end-of-squirt) around 375° at idle, which puts the fuel at the intake valve 10° before it opens, at 365°.
the capacitor on my cop harness has been taken out of the equation.
Last edited by Braineack; 06-08-2011 at 08:43 AM. Reason: quirt)
#156
probably -/+ whatever it's advanced.
I've been running that injection timing table for almost a year now. I've gone to pretty far extremes with it at idle and felt no significant change.
My table injects (end-of-squirt) around 375° at idle, which puts the fuel at the intake valve 10° before it opens, at 365°.
the capacitor on my cop harness has been taken out of the equation.
I've been running that injection timing table for almost a year now. I've gone to pretty far extremes with it at idle and felt no significant change.
My table injects (end-of-squirt) around 375° at idle, which puts the fuel at the intake valve 10° before it opens, at 365°.
the capacitor on my cop harness has been taken out of the equation.
My best guess now is COPs, and then vac leak.
Last edited by miatauser884; 06-08-2011 at 08:55 AM.
#160
It's been wicked hot here so I haven't been driving the miata. Tomorrow I will drive it and add the changes that seem to make sense. I'm adjusting my injectors to the correct deadtime, and I am adjusting my injection timing to compensate for my cam gear. I'll autotune and then try to get a stable idle.