Well, I acutally spoke too soon. The MS is being less reactive to the new blower motor, I can run the a/c at speed #3 without it going crazy, but I still can't run any a/c idle up adder without it shooting up to my max duty %.

 

Today I decided to run my a/c input into my ms3x to take advantage of the extra protection on the circuit. I had it on my mainboard previsouly going directly into JS4 with a simple input circuit (2.2K, and two diodes).

This caused the system to fail. The wouldn't start up right away, TS was showing the voltage was only ~8volts, both fans were running and my LC-1 wasn't outputting correctly...I finally got it to start and it was idling horribly; I noticed my inputs were displaying junk, my idle speed was high and the MS was showing that the duty was fully closed. The only thing I could do at the time (here at work) to solve this was cut the input to the MS3x. The voltage immediately reported back at ~12volts, started the car back up and everything was "kosher" again.

 

Which pin did you use for input? and what about the a/c output?

 

(zack morris's phone)

Pin 11 launch in. Output has always been on js0.


So just drove to gym and to chioptle with a/c on full blast and idle up code running. I had pulled my radio and cleaned up the wiring behind it ran a new RCA from my hu to amp and fooled with the wires goring into the hvac unit.

Tested voltage on input wire at zero and dropped to ground like it should...I remember seeing voltage on it before. So I reconnected the wire to my ms and now that issue seems to be resolved.

 

BONER


Tell us about your workout.

 

(zack morris's phone)

I ran for 2.5 miles. Got real sweaty.

 

Yep last night and this morning was the first time in a few weeks that I could run a/c without issue. Happy now.

I'm pretty sure it's something in my heater control unit, right now fan speeds 3 and 4 are now sometimes causing the a/c compressor to shut off...so the ground to the MS is breaking up. But it sure beats that causing the MS to lock opne my idle valve.

When I had my radio pulled I was messing with the wiring to the unit and unplugged it and made sure there was no obvious faults. I have a new control unit coming in the mail and hopefully that solves it completely.

 

no love...

 

Joe hates you, we have been over this.

 

He should take a number. They all hate me.

 

I wont hate you if you wire my car for my MS3X. I trust your skillz

 

Replaced the HVAC switch but same thing happens. At blower speed 3 and 4 the a/c cuts out.

If I unplug the blower itself at the 12v side the a/c turns back on, but that's no help when the blower isn't spinning.


ideas?

 

Yesterday I pulled the power from the blower motor and ran a wire directly from my battery and connected it as seen here:



When in this configuration, the MS appeared to activate the a/c compressor at all fan speeds, I want to confirm it again while I have the laptop attached as I did it in a rush before heading off to the gym to get pumped.

The connection I made got hot, fast, through the wire back to the battery (~16awg). When I reconnected it back to the stock wiring, it didn't even seem to get warm.

Does this tell me to maybe start looking at everything behind the heater fuse?

 

I need that diagram in a somewhat better resolution.

 

http://y8spec.com/wiring/images/wiring/91diag.pdf

DIY?

 

there's that one. page 5

the one I posted is from: http://boostedmiata.com/servicemanua...vicemanual.pdf

page 1138

 

Did you check the thermo switch on the AC controll unit i assume the hvac has one it could be wet with condensation or not reading properly. My 3 does something similiar and when i shut the hvac of and, back on it works agian for a while longer.

 

Just as a sidenote for your feedback issue, when amplifiers arent grounded properly, or other voltage/amperage issues, they can end up pullin grounds through the rca's which is the noise you hear through the speakers. It can be something inside the amp or your headunit because the same thing can happen to the preamp outputs of the headunit. Any ways on my classic bronco I had my headunit preamp outputs go haywire after my alternator took a dump and every time I did anything electrical that used grounds near my headunit ground I'd head it through my amp whether pops, eeing from alt, or all kinds of other things... On this mustang the alt went bad and messed up the cam sensor and feedback could be heard through amps. but after the alternator was replaced all was well again. On the bronco the headunit stayed broken.
Anyways just wanted to give some info so if you find the [possible] issue dont expect the feedback to dissapear (but pray it does)

 

feedback is gone with a new set of rcas.

 

Thats what I thought but eventually it came back for me, I changed again it went away again. then it stopped going away unless i hit the back of the headunit or unplugged and replugged it. Until I finally got a new headunit. The mustang went back to the way it was... Chasing electricals is not sweet so keep it up man!
-Pops