Taken from the log I just posted, this chart perfectly represents the car getting richer as it gets warmer.




The idle between 170-175°F starts out leaner with a greater pulse width. As the coolant temps increased, the AFRs became richer with a smaller pulse width.

Jump to temps between 180-185*F, the condition got worse, even richer with an even shorter pulse widths.



does not compute.

 

Any chance that the temp difference between the intercooler and the TB is so great that AIT correction is just inaccurate? When did you move your sensor to the IC?

 

~3 years ago. This is a new phemonina.

There are no corrections on that log, AIT temp is sitting at 80°F throughout. If the AIT corrections where the case and the enrichments started leaning out the tune, I'd just be handed the deadly oscillation and doesn't explain the misfires, poor throttle response, and poor gas mileage.

Please keep in mind I'm intimately familar with my car/setup. Been in the family since 1995 and I first went to MS in March of '07.

I normally don't post my issues because 1. I'm usually the cause and 2. smart enough to figure it out. Right now I'm completely clueless.

 

I keep coming back to a spark issue. Have you tried replacing the CAS?

Any chance you can put a completely different MS on the car?

If it is in fact spark related. Changing to stock coils would indicate if it is indeed the cops, or somewhere from the MS to the coils. Replace the MS after the coils and you will know if it is the MS or the wiring between the coils and MS. Check wiring and you would be led to CAS if everything else didn't fix the problem. Check CAS and you can rule out spark as the issue, or you will have found the problem.

Have you inspected your ignitor for a weak connection?

Could a voltage spike damage an ignitor?

 

Unfortunately I don't have a spare ignitor and I sold my 3 spare coilpacks long ago.

I think I can coax y8s into letting me try the COPs out of his car and see if there's a noticable change.

I wouldn't think it's the CAS because I don't have any syncing issues and my timing holds pretty damn solid at idle when shooting a timing light.

The ignitor connection is interesting, I'm pretty sure before it happened I had just flashed the lastest alpha firmware. I removed the ignitor connector form my cop harness before flashing just as a precaution. But I'm almost positive I snugged it back and have since pulled and refit it a few times trying older firmwares after the issue showed up.

But I do still think it has something to do with fuel, ignition, or timing (mechanical or eletrical).

 

I just installed my LC-1 and have driven 200 miles at most on the MS-2 and the LC-1. Last night I wanted to add some delay to the LC-1 so I could actually see the readings on the gauge. It error-ed out and gave me a blinking 7.4 on the gauge. After some more research I found out that Innovate has a 1.2 firmware floating around that fixes the AFR jumping issue as well as the false Error code 8. It may not be related to your problem entirely but it might be worth flashing down to 1.0 and then to 1.2 and see if that helps the stoich issue. I found a thread that mentioned the readings were more consistent and not as erratic.

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=1902

 

Problem is right now I believe the LC-1. I'm running a known good fuel map, only tweaked at idle to get it to idle smooth. Everywhere else reports AFRs close to my target. It's fairly consistent driving around back and forth to work.

Assuming the LC-1 was actually reporting false AFRs, why would it run so poorly and misfire all over the place?

I'm also getting ****-poor MPGs this tank. I'm going to hit 135 miles at the 3/4 mark, I should be closer to 165.

Last good tank of gas I filled up at I reported 27mpg on this very same fuel map. Granted I had EGO enabled, which probably helped. But something is happening at idle where I really seem to be dumping in extra fuel.

I guess if all my coils are weak and I'm wasting gas due to incomplete burns, I could see this happening.

 

Well, I have my old 1.6 coilpacks with plug wires attached. If you want to try them, shoot me pm with your address and I'll ship them out priority mail tomorrow

 

Do you think it is possible to have a gasket that expands enough when warm to stop a leak that occurs when cold?

You are having idle issues at all temps correct?

 

its mainly once warmed, then unable to lean up and stay smooth after warmup enrichments are complete.


take a look at this...idling with the a/c on today. All of a sudden the code freaked out and shot my idle way up without rhythm or reason.



I had to lower my upper rpm limit to get it to stop...which in turn made the car stall every time I came back to idle.


sigh.

 

Can you offset it with dashpot adder? My idle is a lot more stable tonight after switching to the published deadtime data and retuning fuel. I was able to idle pretty stable around 15.0:1 +/- .2 afr. My deadtime at 13.2V is .734ms with a correction factor of .13ms/V.

If you are using the RC440, try the published deadtime data instead of your calculated deadtime. The part I don't get is that it has been working for you in the past, which leads me to believe it isn't the problem. However, it appears to have fixed mine. I only tested mine after the car was warmed up to 180. It did change my idle VE by 30% , which I guess makes sense since I changed the deadtime by the same amount.

What I don't get is that after the WUE turns off the car idles for a while, then all of a sudden relaxes to a lower rpm. I have no clue why this happens.

 

Here is the sudden rpm drop. It at least recovers from this now without much issue. It's just weird to have a 150 rpm drop all of a sudden.

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is my idle when the oscillation isn't really noticeable, but it is obvious that it is oscillating in the log.


My MAP and RPM still oscillate out of phase with one another.

 

A clogged cat might misfire and it would have a hard time building rpm if it was extremly clogged because it cant flow air through the motor. You can probably rule it out if its running somewhat close to what it runs like usually. A vacuum gauge would help in the diagnosis but you can check it with the vac portion of your boost gauge. Blip the throttle and watch how fast it moves. It should increase and decrease at nearly the same rate with no load on the motor, i.e. with trans in neutral. If it accelerates fast toward 0 vac and falls back down very slowly to idle vac or at a noticeably slower rate, it's trapping air in the motor. Usually indicating an extreme restriction in the exhaust.

Happened on my truck. Part of the honeycomb broke loose and every once in a while would turn sideways completely blocking the flow. It would then proceed to act a fool. Engine light would flash, it would misfire horribly and it wouldn't build more than 3500 rpm. Granted this was the most extreme case but the symptoms woud be similar. Just not as bad.

Just sayin.

 

Really surprised he hasn't checked that yet, given his history. Although that would illicit other issues as well, mainly with performance. Idle would probably be the last thing to be effected.

Is your idle screw too far out? Or are you already screwing it in. I know if it gets backed out far enough the screw itself will turn into a fairly substantial air leak, although it hisses if I remember correctly.

 

I had to put the idle screw all the way IN.

You know what... This morning I wanted to drive without the idle valve connected. I increased the idle speed screw back to where it used to be and unplugged the idle valve.

car idled fairly low without but when I started to pull up the street it stalled out on me and was really twitchy. So I run back over and plugged it in, idle speed kicked up and went on my way to work.

What I just realized right now is that I pulled my TPS connector, not my idle valve...

that is VERY odd and i need to investigate. I wonder if I have some sort of ground fault that's fubaring things running off that harness (idle, tps, injectors, etc.)

 

Don't you have an idle valve block off plate from a few years ago? I'd definitely give that a shot, if your TPS doesn't end up being fucked.

 

No, I've always used the idle valve. I can't believe I didn't realize I unplugged the TPS no thte IACv.

But I'm glad I did, the idle speed increased the moment I plugged it in, like that plug powered the iac, I could hear it even click on.

 

Because my CL idle wasn't triggering when the TPS connector was pulled.

I noticed my overflow levels since I added the stop leak last week have dropped about 1/4" from the full line.



I'm done guessing. I'll do a damn leakdown one of these days, find out it's the HG leak I always thought it was and inally solve the problem.

 

Update: LC-1 Firmware 1.2 Beta WORKS!!!! My LC-1 had been locked up acting like it had an error code 8 but my LED light wasn't flashing. I uploaded the new firmware and I have never had my AFR's so stable at idle and driving around. It may be doing some more smoothing but my car definite feels like it is running better. I will post a screen shot of my MLV log when I get home in a bit.

 

cool?