How do you get the damper off with the engine in the car?

How much added protection does this add above already having billet oil pump gears?

Can you switch from the 4 tooth to the 12+1 tooth trigger wheel easily?

I am guessing I need to get the TSE 12+1 trigger wheel so that I can get it to the MS devs to get VVT working with it.

'Twas one of the Super Truck teams...

Is the construction still a rubber ring like the OEM that will move (poor balancing and timing marks that move around)?

If bought without the trigger wheel, are the attachment points so can it be added later (yours or homegrown)?

Guessing its elastomer and thus not as easily rebuildable as the ATI damper.

That thing is sexy and I must have one, but don't own a Miata anymore. What to do?

That is a silly question, you just buy another Miata.

OK well I used a regulated air gun and it was fine. This bolt is the biggest damn bolt in the car. It's supposed to be torqued to 150lbs.

The alternative is to hone the crank some so pressing it on isn't quite as hard.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345138448

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345138448

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345138448

I'm in like pen0rs in hustler's mouth.

We already have a drawing for 36-1 wheel so no delay. If you are one of the first 12 orders, it'll be the same $107 intro price as the other wheels.

Reverse of install procedure.
1. 11
2. Yes
3. So it is absolutely clear (as stated in OP as well): You can not use any other trigger wheel on this damper. Only the proprietary wheels we offer will fit.
Trigger wheel mounts to hub, so it's easily added later. Timing wheel is fixed to crank position, not subject to pulley movement.

Homegrown would be easy for somebody with a full machine shop. It's just a plate but cutting the teeth with precise edges requires more than just an end mill.

Regarding the use of elastomer
Dampers used for high performance or racing, eventually need to be rebuilt. We can't specify a rebuild interval because it varies with usage. For most street only cars, one could expect the damper to last a decade or more. For cars that see regular competition, it is recommended to manually verify timing marks against TDC every year or so. This is something we have always done with OEM dampers on our race cars and will continue to do even with the SPM damper.

Heat affects the life of any damper that uses an elastomer. This is one reason we opted for an aluminum hub. The better the airflow over the damper, the longer it lasts.

Update on weights.

The damper will actually weight closer to 3.75lbs with trigger wheel. OEM is 5.15lbs with timing plate and bolts.

Ordered mine

Do you have to remove the damper from the timing belt pully to do a timing-belt job? I'm not sure that it's actually required. This would change things for me.

Crap, it's getting to be an expensive week!

is it possible to make one with a single v belt for us festiva guys?

What, nobody has a torque wrench that goes to 150+?

^ I've used math and my body weight and a 1ft wrench to torque for large numbers. Sometimes I've had to adjust the length of the wrench.

Also I've never had to remove the timing belt to pull the crank pulley. The other way around yes. The crank pulley should be able to be swapped with out messing with timing.

Plus I ordered one. Thanks to Emilio for answering my questions earlier.

Far easier to just convert your water pump/alternator setup to 4-rib.