Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. (https://www.miataturbo.net/)
-   Engine Performance (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/)
-   -   New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata (https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-performance-56/new-harmonic-balancer-supermiata-67838/)

emilio700 01-20-2013 11:32 AM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 970065)
Has anyone ever taken one of these off? Do you use the 3 holes in the center (only half threaded) or does the puller grab the outside of the pully?

Three holes for puller.

hustler 01-20-2013 11:40 AM


Originally Posted by emilio700 (Post 970071)
Three holes for puller.

I only have like two "twists" of penetration on the threads cut into the damper, should I be worried and or cut them deeper?

emilio700 01-20-2013 02:00 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by hustler (Post 970074)
I only have like two "twists" of penetration on the threads cut into the damper, should I be worried and or cut them deeper?

My bad. Three holes are the crank holder tool to tighten or loosen the crank bolt. Use a common three or four claw pulley removal tool to pull the damper off the crank snout.

SuperMiata damper holder tool
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358708423

Harbor Freight puller #69104
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358708423

hustler 01-20-2013 03:01 PM

Gotcha, thanks.

hustler 02-03-2013 05:47 PM

Do I still have to torque to 150lb feet or whatever?

emilio700 02-03-2013 07:16 PM

crank bolt is still OEM torque

TorqueZombie 02-04-2013 01:09 AM

Am I the only one that either holds the flywheel with a bolt and prybar or leaves the car in gear, brakes on, and torques the crank bolt? Or am I doing something horribly wrong and causing damaging stress to things.

Savington 02-04-2013 01:26 AM


Originally Posted by TorqueZombie (Post 974994)
Am I the only one that either holds the flywheel with a bolt and prybar or leaves the car in gear, brakes on, and torques the crank bolt? Or am I doing something horribly wrong and causing damaging stress to things.

I typically torque in the car using the E-brake and in-gear, but using the install tool will be much easier if the engine is on the stand.

TheScaryOne 02-08-2013 12:29 PM


Originally Posted by EO2K (Post 959272)
So seriously... no one uses the "rope trick" anymore when doing this? Was I raised by wolves or something?

You're not the only one who uses the rope trick, if by rope trick you mean pulling the spark plug and filling the combustion chamber with rope for a mechanical stop while torquing.

That's also how I did my valve guide seals on my Camaro. Much easier than buying an air compressor and the proper fittings.

hochkis 02-08-2013 02:05 PM


Originally Posted by TheScaryOne (Post 976772)
You're not the only one who uses the rope trick, if by rope trick you mean pulling the spark plug and filling the combustion chamber with rope for a mechanical stop while torquing.

That's also how I did my valve guide seals on my Camaro. Much easier than buying an air compressor and the proper fittings.

Works great for doing valve seals, Never had to use it to tighten the crank bolt because the "put it in gear/pull the e-brake" method works pretty well.

hustler 02-08-2013 02:25 PM


Originally Posted by TheScaryOne (Post 976772)
You're not the only one who uses the rope trick, if by rope trick you mean pulling the spark plug and filling the combustion chamber with rope for a mechanical stop while torquing.

You can't be serious, hahahaha. 150lb/ft of torque on a stock rod, yeah...okay.

I like to let the wrench on the crank-bolt hit the ground, then get a long extension in the spark-plug hole, then hammer the piston down with a sledge and turn the engine backwards to torque the bolt. Ya know, there is more than one day to skewer a dog.

Der_Idiot 02-08-2013 04:33 PM

If it breaks then he can get forged rods.

TheScaryOne 02-08-2013 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by hustler (Post 976834)
You can't be serious, hahahaha. 150lb/ft of torque on a stock rod, yeah...okay.

I never said I did it. I was clarifying EO2K's definition of "rope trick." Besides. I have a flywheel holder. His name is Jason. ;) It does work great for keeping the valves from falling out for valve guide seals without a head pull.

I'm no expert, but aren't people turning 200+ ft/lb on stock internals at the wheels? Factor 20% drivetrain loss and that's 250 at the crank on the same axis as tightening the crank bolt.

Figuring roughly 9.5:1 compression creates around 200 PSI (I think it's closer to 250 ideally, but my junkyard motor does 195 on the tester.) in the combustion chamber, and if a completely flat top 83mm piston has 8.35 in^2 of surface area, that's 1670 lb's of force on the face of the piston as it approaches TDC, correct? I'd imagine that pushed through the cross section of the connecting rod, the number goes through the roof.

I don't have the required math background to figure the upward force on the piston transmitted through the offset crank throw from the centerline of the crank having torque applied at 150#. Does anyone else?

Joe Perez 02-08-2013 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by TheScaryOne (Post 976957)
I'm no expert, but aren't people turning 200+ ft/lb on stock internals at the wheels?

200+ average torque, yes. Which means that the peak load on the con-rod would be greater in actual operation than that encountered from applying a stead-state 200 ft/lbs to the crank bolt and using the piston as a stopper.

Nobody is going to bend a rod from using the "rope trick".

EO2K 02-08-2013 09:26 PM

Thank FSM, the previous lack of responses made me doubt my tenuous-at-best understanding of physics as it was.

IcantDo55 03-13-2013 12:16 AM

Impact never failed me. 150lbs is DDHHH...DHHHHH DHH yea that it. 150

muoto 03-18-2013 03:46 AM

2 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363592790

Damper is in with the 36-1 trigger wheel. Adaptronic reads it perfectly

I was kind a surprised how easy it was to get it in. I don’t know why 949 sell that crank holder tool

Another thing that amazes me is how quick car starts now. It probably has more to do with Adaptronic than trigger wheel resolution..

Hot_Wheels 03-18-2013 09:38 PM

Muoto looks good! i opted out for the crank trigger wheel on my b6 due to it doesnt have provisions for a crank trigger. Can anyone tell me how i can mount a crank trigger to my b6t? can i use oem parts? (like a set off a 99?) what would i need?

emilio700 03-18-2013 09:56 PM


Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels (Post 991009)
Muoto looks good! i opted out for the crank trigger wheel on my b6 due to it doesnt have provisions for a crank trigger. Can anyone tell me how i can mount a crank trigger to my b6t? can i use oem parts? (like a set off a 99?) what would i need?

Our trigger wheel is the only one that will fit our damper.

Hot_Wheels 03-18-2013 10:07 PM

right, but im using a fwd b6t, the b6t originally used a dizzy, so what parts would i need so my AEM EMS can utilize a crank position? is there a bracket? sensor from what year?


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:55 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands