Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 944528)

Race oil?

Originally Posted by emilio700 (Post 944474)

I don't think the damper will make that much of a difference that you can notice it from the driver's seat. I have driven BP's with the ATI damper and not noticed anything. The BP's I have driven that were fully balanced however, felt far smoother than any other BP. The best were like a long rod ratio Honda inline 4 in smoothness.

The two things we seen broken the most from mechanical over revs are bent valves and dead main bearings. Mostly the valves. In one instance, a cracked main cap. ST single springs shimmed for another 10# or so of seat pressure good to high 8's. Above 8700-8900, you need the dual valve springs. You pay a price in seat wear, cam wear and heat with the monster valve springs though.

For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230° range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280°. That kills mains.

I need to get off my butt and put together an oil cooler kit for the site.

Originally Posted by hustler (Post 944542)

I assume my engine was balanced, since it had 8lb taken off the crank.


Did you ever look at my baller oil cooler set-up? I never went above 230*f at 250whp in 105*f Texas heat, tucked behind a Panoz. I use a 13-row. No cat, no care.

Originally Posted by emilio700 (Post 944554)

Don't assume that lighter is better balanced. A full counterweighted crank does a better job of offsetting what it's designed to offset. We hurt stuff with super light cranks more often than well balanced but near stock weight cranks.

Originally Posted by hustler (Post 944574)

More reason to keep it under 7200.

Originally Posted by emilio700 (Post 944581)

Yeah but 8200 sounds so bitchin :party:

Originally Posted by hustler (Post 944588)

When the lights flash in Crusher, you're supposed to immediately shift, lol.

Originally Posted by Faeflora (Post 944528)

Race oil?

Originally Posted by czubaka (Post 945460)

How bad would it be to remove/install the damper twice each year? Any potential issues with the press-fit loosening up?

I'd need to do this to return to stock for obd2/emissions testing. :vash:

Originally Posted by czubaka (Post 945838)

It has more to do with changing the crank trigger wheel. I'm considering the AEM EMS-4, but it seems to need the 12+1, but I'd need the 4 tooth wheel for the stock ecu.

Originally Posted by czubaka (Post 945942)

2001. Yeah, probably MS3 is the best bet. I'm trying to minimize my workload when going for testing. I guess that means I can use the super damper with the 4-tooth option, and I won't have to change it back and forth.

Originally Posted by Ski_Lover (Post 945955)