Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 945947)
I believe the AEM can use the stock 4 point trigger wheel. Savington went with a 12 point just for better resolution and it is the max that AEM will read.
AEM is PNP I believe for an 01, while an MS3X would need an adapter harness for it. Both will work for you and it just comes down to personal preference for which to use.
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 945948)
I'm obviously biased, but one of the MS3 variants would be my first choice. It'll run off all the stock sensors, and the VVT system seems to be pretty well sorted on it from what I understand.
You'll have to supply your own wiring harness, as (to the best of my knowledge) nobody has PnP harnii available for the '01-'05 Miatas (they have a really odd ECU connector which differs greatly from the '90-'00 cars) however you can greatly simplify the task by starting with a Boomslang extension harness (the car side) and adapting it to the MS's connectors on the ECU side. For all I know, Boomslang might even be able to build you the whole harness- the list PnP harnesses for a number of other applications. Back on topic - I want one of these! |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 940766)
The removal tool is proprietary. The damper has threaded bosses in its face. The installer is a cylindrical block with port for a breaker bar. The installer will be available to buy or rent from our site and possible TSE as well.
To install, thread small bolts through the installer into damper. Insert breaker bar through port to keep damper from rotating. Torque main bolt. To remove use claw type puller. |
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 948330)
Ok so i got my damper today, unfortunately i dont have the cash at the moment to get the installer. But from reading the statement above it sounds like the installer just holds the pulley still while you torque down the crank bolt? My engine is out, So cant i just use my flywheel holder tool to hold the flywheel while i torque the bolt? the crank bolt is pressing the pulley on correct? Also is there any where online i can order the crank bolt and key? part numbers would be appreciated!
MAZDASPEED MOTORSPORTS DEVELOPMENT - Miata Parts Catalogs and Collision Guides 1990-2002 |
4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 948330)
Also is there any where online i can order the crank bolt and key? part numbers would be appreciated!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352608234 BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406) - $10.98 - B3C711406 KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352608234 KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) - $4.33 - B3C711317 Check me on this though, I've been drinking tonight |
i found them on ebay so i bought them. Im hoping there oem mazda. if not ill use those part numbers.
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Let me get this straight... you just bought a $440 harmonic damper and you are going to attach it to what I assume is $2000-$3000 worth of built engine with hardware... from eBay?!
Come on man. I'm cheap as hell, but even I'm not that bad. Its $15.31 for OEM parts from a Mazda dealer. Is saving $5 at this point really that important to you? |
it said they where mazda parts, ebay dont lie, all the time
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 948536)
BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352608234 BOLT,LCK C-SHAFT (B3C7-11-406) - $10.98 - B3C711406 KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1352608234 KEY, WOODRUFF (B3C7-11-317) - $4.33 - B3C711317 Check me on this though, I've been drinking tonight |
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 950021)
i took you advise and ordered right from mazda, thats a great site! i also ordered the oil pump o ring due to i have a feeling my machine shop may not have realized it needed a o ring. I gave them the short block un assembled.
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels
(Post 950021)
ps did you start building that manifold yet??
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Installing the SPM damper
One can use the OEM crank bolt to press the damper onto the nose of the crankshaft. The preferred method however, is to use a damper installer that allows far more precise torque to be applied. You can use any standard damper installer that has a 14x1.5mm bolt option or you can rent ours for $30.
If installing on an engine that's not in a car, you can hold the crank from the flywheel end to torque the crank pulley bolt. If installing the damper while the engine is in the car, you will need a method to hold the crank stationary. Standard Miata crank holders will not work so you'll need to rent or buy our SPM damper crank holder tool. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 958583)
If installing the damper while the engine is in the car, you will need a method to hold the crank stationary. Standard Miata crank holders will not work so you'll need to rent or buy our SPM damper crank holder tool.
This is how I've torqued down OEM pulleys in the past. There's some slack in the drivetrain to take up, but it's doable. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 958655)
Place transmission in 5th gear and apply parking brake?
This is how I've torqued down OEM pulleys in the past. There's some slack in the drivetrain to take up, but it's doable. |
2 Attachment(s)
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 958655)
Place transmission in 5th gear and apply parking brake?
This is how I've torqued down OEM pulleys in the past. There's some slack in the drivetrain to take up, but it's doable. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 959247)
I have never had that actually work to tighten or loosen the crank bolt to the correct torque spec. It always seems to give out well before 100ft/lbs.
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So seriously... no one uses the "rope trick" anymore when doing this? Was I raised by wolves or something?
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 959250)
Your e-brake is le suck. Before I had an impact manly enough to remove front crank bolts, I would always remove them that way before pulling the engine out of the car.
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...and page 5 features a bunch of women posting who can't press their own body weight.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 959281)
...and page 5 features a bunch of women posting who can't press their own body weight.
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Has anyone ever taken one of these off? Do you use the 3 holes in the center (only half threaded) or does the puller grab the outside of the pully?
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