Regardless of what is displayed for the driver, it is important to understand the relationship between ECU correction tables and the sensor data. An example would be warm up enrichment table that extends all the way to 185 degrees coolant but an engine sensor that always reads 175. That is just one table but there are many that are affected by CLT.

Sonny's race car, Miller which I have tuned is like yours and has a driver gauge that reads different from what's in the ECU. So the tables in the ECU or keyed off the readings from one sensor. The dash on the gauge and its warning lights are calibrated based off what the ECU is seeing. So the coolant temp warning light comes on a bit lower than you would expect. I guess what I'm saying is determine which one you think is the most accurate location/calibration and key everything off of that.

QMax
 

So I test fitted my QMax while the engine is out.....Heater hose is literally sitting on top of the EGR pipe.....will this get resolved once the engine is in and the heater hose is attached?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...10c81081c.jpeg

have you considered a barb adapter - maybe a a 90 and your heater hose goes under the EGR and comes up vertically if the hose allows

Depending on the year and header brand, the EGR pipe is close. If you are concerned just put small amount of thermal wrap on the rubber hose. We have no reports of heater hose damage after a few years of selling our current design.

QMax
 

I will do just that....thank you.

QMax
 

So I decided to make it work the way it should be without wrapping the heater tube.....that is by using a 45 degree 3/8 npt x 5/8 hose barb......and the result is what I expected.....
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b441ab82b.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...75c59b31d.jpeg

NA8 stock rad clearance?
 

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bceb7ea991.jpg
NA8 rad hose clearance

i know the easiest solution is to just order the Supermiata radiator, but I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a solution making this work. Issue is the stock radiator hose location forces the supplied hose into a tight bend that will kink no matter what. Running it through the vacuum line like I have in the picture makes it less of an angle, but still difficult to prevent it from kiniking. Also results in the hose rubbing against a sensor more than I would like.

Buy Dayco 71519 and trim off what's needed to bend pass the throttle body and then buy a 32mm hose adapter to join the two.

I can take a picture tomorrow, but I cut and welded the koyo inlet to ~45 and it fit perfectly. I’ve seen a lot of rotated stock hoses and joints and don’t like how they function. Cutting and welding uses a single hose and fits beautifully when done right.

Perfect, I'll look into this. Thanks!

That would be a great option, but I have a relatively new OEM plastic tank radiator. If all else fails I'll just order a Supermiata Crossflow.

Someone was asking about EGR pipe clearance, so I took these photos. And lastly the radiator modification. Great excuse to ditch a plastic radiator.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4947f949.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...59a597dd2.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dfffcd452.jpeg

did the egr need any bending?

Here's the EGR in my '97. No bending needed but I did loosen it up until the re-reroute was installed.I think there was also a small bracket on the back if I remember right and I left that off. No way I could see to reinstall it.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0ff273d073.jpg

For those with upper radiator hose interfence issues on a radiator with the upper port in the stock location; I came up with a "home brew" solution that is working so far. It's not pretty, but it worked well enough for me to test fire the engine this weekend.

You'll need the following:
- 1.25" aluminum or stainless steel couple for silicone hoses (i got mine at silicone intakes)
- Gates radiator hose, part # 22436
- 2 additional hose clamps
- 1/2" pipe nipple from you favorite hardware store
- some half in pipe of tubing

Splice the radiator hose to the silicone oe that came with the kit (yes, it creates an additional falure point). Where to cut/splice is obvous once you have the parts. Next, hack the IACV fitting off the stock intake and use the pipe nipple to reattach so it sits further away form the intake tube. Then use the 1/2' tubing to connect it to he IACV. I plan to make a "prettier" more permanet solution once I finish the other stuff I need to do to get the car back on the road.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1d800e617d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7683571e77.jpg

I got a 99+ throttle body with the internal IAC routing for $20. Eliminates the IAC tube off the intake and solved the routing issues.

This sounds like a great idea! Did anything else have to be modified to work for this?

I'm a dumbass, LOL. MUCH better solution!

No. I did trim the IAC hose about half an inch so it sat higher.

I'm currently installing the FM S1 turbo kit now and I'm having difficulty getting the egr pipe around the SM Coolent reroute .

I cant confirm just yet if the egr pipe won't fit at all- but its definitely not bolting straight up

Per the instructions, you'll find it easier if you loosen the EGR fittings first. No need to disconnect EGR, just some wiggle room to get the housing on then retorque the EGR fittings.
If the FM kit has a non-OEM EGR or EGR location, it could cause interference. We have not test fitted the Qmax with non OEM EGR pipes or mounting locations.

HTH