The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)
Started working at a new shop doing production work. Getting some practice on the new machine, dialing it in to get my amperage and gas flow right. Practicing getting my beads closer together, without pulse, just dip dip dip after seeing some aerospace welders do it like that. They explained to me that it keeps you from having to put as much heat down if you dip more often but with less filler. I also like the look I must say.



These are a slip fit, so I just washed the edge over. No pulse, just side to side.


Here's a repair job on a marine exhaust I did.. What a bitch. Has to hold 20 psi internally, so it has to be oressure tested as you put it together. Inside tubes were leaking, and there wasn't enough time before the race to make new ones. For those of you Who don't know, marine exhaust are within another set of tubes, with water circulating for cooling.






These are a slip fit, so I just washed the edge over. No pulse, just side to side.


Here's a repair job on a marine exhaust I did.. What a bitch. Has to hold 20 psi internally, so it has to be oressure tested as you put it together. Inside tubes were leaking, and there wasn't enough time before the race to make new ones. For those of you Who don't know, marine exhaust are within another set of tubes, with water circulating for cooling.



Last edited by Boost_addict; Aug 25, 2013 at 04:18 PM.
im a bit drujnk, but i made a drunk mangs switch start panel . Consists of two off/on light up swithcs, and a momentary toggle.
I thik itts going into the bronco.
This might be the saddest thing in this thread but im kwl onwing it

eww my corner of that keybard, I never touch that area. I need to clean that.
done.
I thik itts going into the bronco.
This might be the saddest thing in this thread but im kwl onwing it
eww my corner of that keybard, I never touch that area. I need to clean that.
done.
Hey, nothing wrong with **** that works. The only thing that I would have done differently is the labeling. Eject, rockets, and dome light could potentially confuse thieves.
Also, if those are Pico switches they have a 50% chance of failing (I know, I bought 6 from summit and 3 have failed after flicking them <10 times. The housing design is Chinatastic).
All finished, used another of my custom machined AIT bungs, I was so sick of not being able to purchase nice quality bungs made with high quality SS, so I had a run made by a local old time machinist 








Dann









Dann
The bumps at the small end are for my pleasure, at the big end they are for hustlers mums pleasure.
Sorry about the fucktonne of photos, fair call.
Yes the dimples are for hose clamps, I wish I had a bead roller capable of doing 1.6mm stainless, but alas thats another 600 dollars away (and **** me I have a workshop, but no hoist, and I've been here 2 months already!).
Dann
Sorry about the fucktonne of photos, fair call.
Yes the dimples are for hose clamps, I wish I had a bead roller capable of doing 1.6mm stainless, but alas thats another 600 dollars away (and **** me I have a workshop, but no hoist, and I've been here 2 months already!).
Dann
Dann, you should be able to buy those fittings pretty easy.
Go to a good stainless supplier that does food grade stuff and ask for sanitary npt fittings in the size you need. they should be a stocked item and about $4 each.
I just used a few of those on a kegerator tank for a lowrider that i worked on.
Go to a good stainless supplier that does food grade stuff and ask for sanitary npt fittings in the size you need. they should be a stocked item and about $4 each.
I just used a few of those on a kegerator tank for a lowrider that i worked on.
Dann, you should be able to buy those fittings pretty easy.
Go to a good stainless supplier that does food grade stuff and ask for sanitary npt fittings in the size you need. they should be a stocked item and about $4 each.
I just used a few of those on a kegerator tank for a lowrider that i worked on.
Go to a good stainless supplier that does food grade stuff and ask for sanitary npt fittings in the size you need. they should be a stocked item and about $4 each.
I just used a few of those on a kegerator tank for a lowrider that i worked on.
I guess its almost the same material costs if you're not buying the CX-Racing crappy bends and are getting like vibrant quality or better aluminum bends. The only real downside I've found with the twain CX-Racing bends is that occasionally you'll just hit a really thin spot and end up with 1/4" hole before you can get off the pedal.
Stainless is just as easy to work with IMO, because the time you spend cutting and drilling it you save in not cleaning and preparing it for welding.
The main upside is that its tough, the threads are tough, prep is easy and it looks really fantastic. And you can get .8mm SS bends and tube also if you want (the ICV tube is .8 or .6) and there is no weight penalty.
Dann
The main upside is that its tough, the threads are tough, prep is easy and it looks really fantastic. And you can get .8mm SS bends and tube also if you want (the ICV tube is .8 or .6) and there is no weight penalty.
Dann











