Got the driver's door bars bent and notched. Royal PITA since the pillar bars fit so tight. Went with the FIA style X bar, bottom of the X comes out high in the back since the main hoop sits on the crossmember behind the driver's area.

That bottom bar that rides along the rocker serves no real purpose other than to meet the USAC requirement for the Pike's Peak Unlimited class which requires three driver's side bars instead of two (which nobody ever does, their tech is appalling). Since it's there, I'm going to tie into the bottom of the X to brace it for ***** and giggles.

 

I like the idea of having the 3rd bar. I added it in mine on both side. I personally think the factory rockers are way too weak!

Looks good. You gonna run it up pikes with the SBC as well? Is it carb or FI?

 

Pikes Peak is still a long ways away for me. Plan on running this thing for several years before I give it a go, I'd kill myself if I attempted it now with this car and my lack of experience. Since the weight, aero, and braking will be changing drastically, it will take quite a while to sort out as-is.

Motor is fuel injected using the Holley HP setup. Planning on running this motor naturally aspirated for a while. Will likely step up to either a bigger N/A setup in 2015, or look at an S480-based turbo setup. With the tracks I run at, the N/A setup alone would already be a lot to handle.

 

This is the coolest thing I've built. Turned a Formula Continental (Van Diemen) into a Formula 1000 with a GSXR 1000 dry sump motor. Also involved in writing the rules and creating the class in SCCA...

 

 

That's unbelievable cool. Looks like a blast. Any vids?

 

This was prior to the silver paint job...

 

This Definitely isnt worthy of being put in here, but i found it kindof funny, and figured i would share.
I drove out to Mid-Missouri to visit family last week. It was about an 800 mile drive. Somewhere in indiana (Greenfield??) on I-70, i noticed smoke coming from under the hood. I pulled over, and popped it, and noticed some oil was burning around the banjo/bolt on top of the turbo. I removed the bolt, and looked at the washers, they were Marred up. I didnt replace them as i should have when i replaced the feed line. Anywho, i had some in my trunk... i carry everything in my trunk. lol
I replaced them, and as i went to tighten the banjo bolt back in, it never got tight, or even snug... just spun... i pull off the socket, and found that the bolt had snapped.



So, now im on the hunt. I walked up the off ramp, and saw some businesses including Advance Auto, Vato Zone, and The Home Depot. I went to the Two Auto stores... Neither of them had the M10 x 1.25 Bolt that i needed, and NEITHER of them could even get one. Im 400 miles from home, and 400 miles from my destination. I dont have time to wait. I went to The Home Depot, as they usually have a decent selection of nuts and bolts, and a plumbing section. Absolutely nothing, and they cant get it. And, its so close to the holidays, there is no way i can get anything in a reasonable amount of time.
So, i buy a few regular m10x1.25 bolts just in case i luck out and find a drill press. I look around, nobody has a press, and everything is closed. I Went BACK to the home depot, and asked them if they had a way to drill a bolt for me. Obviously their answer was no... But they also went ahead and told me that you cant drill hardened steel.... (since when?!?)
So, i asked where the drills were... I bought a Cheap Ryobi, and about 6 titanium bits in the diameter i needed, and then said "watch me"
Took my happy *** back across the street to Advanced auto (they couldnt get it, but they WERE very helpful initially, even called around to a bunch of places for me.) they were already locking up, but i knocked, and knowing my situation, they let me in. I asked if i could use their power, and they said "Definitely!" and they even let me use their bench vise.
So i started going to town









So, i did it, first try... i know its not the best material to use, but it got me un-stuck, and i made it home.
Already ordered a new bolt, so once that gets here, ill be golden. The bolt, even though it is threaded all the way up, sealed perfectly fine with the new crush washers.

 

NB8C Turbo setup, from stock to completion. No good pics of the manifold build sorry. SR20 shaped though.







I wasnt happy with the wastegate arm travel on the regular flat divorced gases flange so I made this, then I still clearanced it with the die grinder and polish wheel.













Divorced gases return ported







Up into a 3" section with a flex, a brace and a 3" bullet cat. (100 cell)






It has one of those grills popular on NB's to cover it a little.











Worlds shortest and simplest BOV recirculation. With the huge filter and 3" intake pipe its still loud enough to hear inside the car but not really outside it.







Aeroflow black on black hoses and fittings everywhere and silicone also by Aeroflow.




Getting tuned this week. Mod list.

MSM clutch
Haltech PS1000 ECU
RX8 injectors
EBC via TPS via ECU
GT2560r
Tubular manifold
Full sized intercooler
10mm inconel studs and locking hardware
Separated gases downpipe (2.25 and 1.5") with separating bridge inside flange
3" 100 cell bullet cat
Flex and brace
Turbosmart kompact 34mm BOV recirculated
2.5" tailpipe with small straight through muffler.


Power goal 250whp for weekend use.

Dann

 

Holy **** that is clean

 

Props Supercooper. Not every bit of good fabrication is planned.

 

haha, DEFINITELY wasnt planned.. lol
i knew i should have replaced that banjo bolt when i did the line.. Thats what i get for cutting corners. Lmao
Made my 14 hour drive turn into a 17 hour drive. haha
Only took a little under an hour to make the bolt (because i drilled slow as hell so as not to burn up the bit)
But it took a little over 2 hours to figure out what i was gonna do so i wouldnt be stranded. lol
And to top it off.... i HATE Indiana... lmao

 

Really clean setup. Some things I just don't understand though:
why msm clutch when it will be on thin ice past 200tq?
why the weird length downpipe?
why not traditional style hotside routing?
that ac line is way way too close to the turbine and needs way more than heat tape to stay unbaked imo

 

Looks great, you guys are very luky to have all that room with the left hand drive cars! Nice work, hope that it runs as good as it looks!!!

 

The car was never meant to be turbo, I told him he would end up being disappointed with in n/a with bolt ons, and he was. The MSM clutch was a very good choice for a nice quick n/a car..

The downpipe joins with the catback, the n/a exhaust was fully custom apart from RB headers, and thats just where that flange happened to be. I didn't build it, it retains the 2.5" section behind the cat as you can see looking at the downpipe.

Its so hard to fit a solid 2" pipe through all of the AC and PS mess, so I just built an MSM style setup in 2".

Yes the AC line will get a hard time on the track, its not finished it needs a little bit more work, like an airbox.

Dann

 

Love that Dann, very nicely built and very very clean!

Do you mind me asking how much that setup would cost?

 

Dan, your stuff looks fantastic.
If I come to visit you will you teach me how to weld like that?

Supercooper, great skills and quick thinking!
I want to be in your basement during the Zombie apocalypse

 

I was wondering something that someone here may be able to help me with.

On an exhaust, can you couple titanium with stainless or would you have to use a fully titanium exhaust? The reason that I ask, I have found a plethora or used titanium motorcycle mufflers and I have a line on some cheaper tubing but I cannot find flex pipes, couplers, or anything else I may need in ti.

Oh, I should also mention that I cannot weld worth jack **** and I have never welded ti so I would have to have that done by a pro.

Let me know what you think. And this may not be the right place for this, I am just hoping that it is.

 

I dont believe you can weld stainless to Ti, you'd be better off mating the two together with slip connectors.

 

In generaly, Titanium needs to be welded in an inert atmosphere because it oxidizes rapidly at high temperatures. It can be done in a normal shop with a TIG welder if the weldor knows what s/he is doing and is using the correct shielding gas, a huge cup, and a tremendous amount of said shielding gas. Good luck finding someone that can do it for a reasonable amount of money, my guess is that it will be expensive.

So, no matter how cheap you can get the mufflers and some other tubing, it's still going to be expensive.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out