I use 308L rod for everything. 304 to 304, 304 to 316, 304 to 409, 304 to 321, 321 to 409, etc. I know in some of those situations I should be using 309L rod instead to prevent carbide precipitation but I'm not welding nuclear reactors here just exhausts.

 

Everything? Even MS to 308?

 

OH yeah, I forgot mild to 304.

 

Mine isn't nearly as pretty as boost_addicts (goddamn those are some pretty welds..), but I finished up a 3" downpipe for my xr4ti this weekend.



Fits like a glove. Now to get the f*cker running on MS...

 

I forgot to take pictures, but last two nights I made a new billet endcap and welded it to a new perf core section for the aluminum exhaust setup. The previous one failed the rivets after like 6 races and then finishing the race broke the perf core into multiple pieces and fucked up both end caps. This one wont fail, its bolted and billet.

And while welding it I must have shorted out the miller mask at school. I somehow managed to get zapped in my elbow and then the mask would always go full dark when I started the arc even though it was set to 9 glass. I had to reset the mask to get it back to normal. It was weird.

 

Switch to Arm & Hammer and your welds will look better.

These guys with the photogenic welds have some incredible shop tools at their disposal. Yours like quite alright for a driveway weld job.

 

You dont need unreal tools and unlimited resources to make a good weld.

Jeff, yours looks fine and will have no problems holding.


Though Im no pro, I made good welds in my shop at home, and I dont have a ton of tools and the ones I do have arent anything more than any other consumer. Make due with what you have. Spend the money getting educated and you will get way better than others who dont.

I have said it before -maybe not here- but there is nothing like an old boy welder yelling in your ear while your welding away trying to help you out. Take a class.

 

I know that a back purge setup is whats holding back my stainless work. I really should just buy a cheap tank and grab another regulator when I get a chance.

 

Dann

 

Where is the WGA for that EFR?

 

In the boot. Its got a stock bottom end, for now, and its getting driven interstate, like 1000 miles.

Dann

 

Lol. How much boost does it make wide open? I know my IWGA runs out of throw before the WG is all the way open which is why my car creeps to 10 psi. Based on what I've seen if you can get a 6psi waste gate that opens more than mine and run 8psi it should be fine on the stock bottom end with the the 6758, and probably the 6258.

 

0 PSI.

All day, on the dot.

No matter how you drive it

Go Borg Warner designers :P

Dann

 

Some practice
.125, 50 amps

.0625, 28 amps


Custom muffler setup for an rx4 using a rx8 pre-silencer, stainless.

 

Changing pants, brb.

 

Jeff: props for owning a Merkur. That takes courage. Miss mine some days.

To the rest if you: if you look at boost_addict's latest photos there and don't hit the props button, you are failing our community and you should go join m.net.

 

Zander, what base metals are the top 2 flatbar?

Very perfect width weld on the first. Auto pulse?

Intentional starvation of argon to achieve the colour?

Dann

 

They're stainless. .125 and .0625. I'm just pulsing the pedal on those, no filler. As far as gas coverage goes, I need to get another #12 cup, that thing made a world of difference with coverage.

 

Sweet thanks for the info. Looks like the gas flow is at that level juuuuuussst below where its enough for silvery gold welds, and making those sexy colours, its hard to do on purpose.

Dann

 

Almost finished up. MS2 is in and running nicely and most everything else is buttoned up. Just need to swap out shady *** heater hose and replace a questionable hose from the fill bottle to the pipe that runs from the t-stat housing to the manifold. Then the carnage begins!



Edit: Seriously, the stock cooling system on these cars looks like it was designed by Hyper. No ******* joke.