PCV oil vapor catch can
 

Here's my simple PCV oil vapor catch can that goes in place of the stock airbox. It's for naturally aspirated cars running individual throttle bodies. One hose comes off the stock PCV valve, the other goes to vent on the valve cover. No internal baffling or pot scrubbers or anything because it's not really needed on a N/A car. Very similar to the ones made by Ocean @ Chikara Motorsports except my dimensions are a little bit different (4" square tube overhangs the shelf a little bit) and I have threaded bungs which allow for replaceable fittings to permit 90° elbows to be used if so desired. I designed it and cut all the pieces. A friend welded it up for me because I suck at TIG welding aluminum.

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Is that a Vibrant mid muffler? How does it fit under the car?

Those are some nice welds, I picked up some of the same 4" square for the same kind of catch can, If my welds look half as good as those Ill be very happy

Mine is going on a turbo setup so Im going to do some baffling

my first thought too.

i also enjoy the clean new fab parts juxtaposed on the old dirty engine photography

flipped.

yes, and its a tight fit. you will loose 1/2" of ground clearance if you set it so it doesn't hit the body

Ive been meaning to clean and paint it, but I have no time for that right now lol.

Having it clean would be nice since it is a mock up engine.

Making a pit vehicle of death.

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And I rode it around a bit like this, no spacers in the front.

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This is going to be pretty dumb. 8Ah LiPoly battery, 3hp SBC/BBC gear reduction min starter 100A solenoid. Its going to get gear ratio limited to about 20mph.

Nice! There's plenty of what you have in your pictures here at work (after the Segway's died they switched to razor type scooters) so let us know how you do it.

Here's something my dad and I built circa early 90's. The horizontal shaft engine was a display piece at the local VoTech that was missing basically everything, built it using vertical shaft pieces I pirated off a dumpster lawn mower, intake manifold is a BBC oil pump pickup tube. I built a few silly things like this when I was a kid but this is the only one that I still have, stored in my parent's basement.

I don't think it's safe enough to give to my kids though.

I've got some rod that should direct fit into the hollow end of the gear of the starter. And another tube to sip over that to make it the right diameter for a sprocket. Attaching to the wheel is going to be much harder I'm going to weld 2 shaft collars together to clamp onto the wheel and clamp onto 1.5" od tube. I didnt just weld to the wheel because I wouldnt be able to get the bearing out if it needed to be serviced, which it probably will since these wheels were designed to top out at 5mph, not 20mph. Probably not going to be perfectly concentric, but at this power and weight level with #40 gokart chain I'm not terribly concerned. I'm thinking of mounting the motor behind the wheel and putting a rear fender on like the stock one to use as a brake.

made a pair of master cylinder braces yesterday, one for me one for the classifieds.

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washer stacks just for mock up
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can I ask why you need to brace the master?

This trick has been going on for a while.

The M/C is anchored only to the relatively thin and slightly flexible sheet metal of the firewall, and thus it can move slightly in normal operation. You can actually see it if you have someone else sit in the car and apply the pedal hard while you observe under the hood.

With an otherwise healthy brake system, this doesn't actually limit available braking power, but people with extreme MOCD fixate over the fact that it means that some part of their car is slightly less than optimal, and obsess over how it contributes to a slight softness in the pedal.

The master is mounted to a largely unsupported span of sheet metal. When pressure is applied to the pedal, the sheet metal deflects. The result is additional travel and an altered feel. That strain can largely be eliminated with a master cylinder brace. It's something that won't make the car faster by an appreciable amount but they do improve the feal.

what they said.

and these guys
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...%3D-win-36044/

to be honest ive never really had any complaints, it was just so easy to make one and highly regarded, so why not.

I built an ebike in highschool for a project that used a GM v8 starter motor....

it worked great, but it died a horrible death because it wasn't meant for long use life (think of the last time you cranked your car for 30+ seconds). The bike was wicked fast though.

Yeah I mean its going to be able to hit terrifying speeds in under 10 seconds of on time. And the battery only has 5 minutes of full power time for the motor. Probably just going to pulse and coast. If I decide that it needs more cooling then I can drill the back cap and duct a 120mm computer fan into the back cap to blow on the commutator.

is it direct drive with a flywheel, or chain driven?


maybe add some kind of freewheel if your chain driving so that you can coast longer...there is a lot of force making you slow down with one of these if chain driven without the freewheel.... so much so that it will reallllly slow you down...

one way needle bearing on the motor sprocket would work nicely. That way you could still foot push it when the battery is dead.

I was under the impression I wouldnt need to do that to coast. This is an all bearing motor, no bushings, and when coating it will be an open circuit so there will be no EMF braking. Only drag will be from the brushes, but the motor has some serious inertia to help balance that out.