Originally Posted by Erat
(Post 1193888)
lol, so?
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1193856)
It was tacked in about 10 places around the flange.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1193901)
That didnt really do dick. I bolted mine to a stock header with every bolt as tight as I fucking could and I was worried that wouldnt be good enough. I also machined a 3/4" think steel plate with both the BP flange and the T25 flange if anyone is interested in buying a pimpy fixture plate for cranking out a lot of these.
It was my first manifold and I learned a lot. I won't build another one without a band saw, fixture to hold the flange, backpurging, and post flow. Also I would go with 1/2" flanges instead of 3/8" |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1193895)
Not enough to hold it down? Would explain some of the warping. The first time I welded it I didn't connect it to anything. That warped so much I had to recut the pipes.
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1193901)
I also machined a 3/4" think steel plate with both the BP flange and the T25 flange if anyone is interested in buying a pimpy fixture plate for cranking out a lot of these.
FWIW, I use a 2" piece of cold rolled and it gets to be burn your hand hot after welding all of the runners to the head flange, even with the purge gas going through it. The turbo flange gets equally as hot, because its small... but your spending a lot less time on it because its pretty open and easy to weld before you get the rest of the manifold in the way. With this method, I have had really good luck with welding the flanges and have generally no need to surface the flanges. I do surface them on my belt sander to make totally sure that each product is top of the line, ready to go. Its more of a quality assurance than quality control. |
Remove your cylinder head from your car and use that as your heat sink.
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A buddy of mine with a really nice CNC machine makes 1/2 flanges.
http://www.mazworx.com/resize/shared...0&bh=550&h=550 http://www.mazworx.com/resize/Shared...0&bh=550&h=550 Specifications: - Made from 1/2" thick 1018 cold rolled steel - CNC machine cut - Stepped to accept 1 1/2" sch. 10 pipe Made in the USA. Mark is a really interesting guy. He carves new RB26 and SR20 blocks out of huge chunks of aluminum with one of his CNC machines (amongst other things). http://www.mazworx.com/resize/shared...0&bh=550&h=550 |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1194147)
A buddy of mine with a really nice CNC machine makes 1/2 flanges.
http://www.mazworx.com/resize/shared...0&bh=550&h=550 http://www.mazworx.com/resize/Shared...0&bh=550&h=550 Mazworx - BP #965515 But wow that is a steal. When I go to 1.8 I know where I'll be getting my flange. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1194147)
A buddy of mine with a really nice CNC machine makes 1/2 flanges.
http://www.mazworx.com/resize/shared...0&bh=550&h=550 http://www.mazworx.com/resize/Shared...0&bh=550&h=550 Mazworx - BP #965515 Mark is a really interesting guy. He carves new RB26 and SR20 blocks out of huge chunks of aluminum with one of his CNC machines (amongst other things). http://www.mazworx.com/resize/shared...0&bh=550&h=550
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1194148)
For a 1.6?
But wow that is a steal. When I go to 1.8 I know where I'll be getting my flange. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1194158)
I get very similar flanges from bmcrace.com. Only difference that I can tell is I get them made for schedule 40 pipes.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1194162)
And made out of 304 stainless instead of mild. They'll also make them for 1.25".
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1194166)
Are you saying BMC does 304 stainless and will do for 1.25 pipe or Steve's guy will?
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1194087)
Remove your cylinder head from your car and use that as your heat sink.
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If a flanges is milled for sch. 10, then it'll fit sch. 40 as they are the same OD. Don't worry about the slight ID difference for flow but if you must, a few min with a die grinder will fix that.
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1194512)
Get a cylinder head from a junkyard, and use that as your heat sink.
Mention something silly and hope the guy figures out the obvious smarter solution, which ultimately helps his self esteem. |
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5 Attachment(s)
just finished it
snap ring groove Attachment 184383 assembled Attachment 184384 Attachment 184385 my vise is a total piece of shit; one of the jaws tries to climb the other when i roll it in one direction, so i can only roll in the other, the jaws are a little wiggly and i have to "steer" the pipe. in a nice vise, i bet it would be solid. this was my first attmept. you can see how i left a sharp edge on the female die so it left a ridge. it has since been rounded off and the 2nd one came out much better. pics of 2nd attempt were potato. Attachment 184386 Attachment 184387 |
woah. Thats brilliant
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It works fine only driving one side? Dont all the ones you'd buy have gears connecting them?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1204125)
It works fine only driving one side? Dont all the ones you'd buy have gears connecting them?
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5 Attachment(s)
Oh yell yeah.
That is awesome! I think i posted this in my build thread. Titanium. Attachment 184374 Attachment 184375 Attachment 184376 Attachment 184377 Attachment 184378 |
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Something new I haven't seen anybody else do on a Miata, but I'm moving more air flow through the Naca ducts in the underbody.
Attachment 184367 Attachment 184368 Attachment 184369 Here is part 1 of many of making fiberglass parts at work Attachment 184370 Attachment 184371 Attachment 184372 Attachment 184373 |
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