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Took a short break from welding- Im back at it again though.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3947/...1b824de8_c.jpg1.6L Miata EFR Manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5612/...a2b51469_c.jpg1.6L Miata EFR Manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr 1.6 Miata EFR manifold done. Going to jig up a downpipe for it and then jig up 1.8L EFR kits! :) |
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I can't remember if i posted this or not.
Now that i'm at my new job i hardly ever do any fabrication. I dearly miss working at the fab shop. I still get some jobs from time to time. Old dirty stainless. Combination of tig and stainless mig welded. Attachment 184608 Attachment 184609 These came out for repairs because sulfuric acid. We got a guy on our team who thinks he's the best fabricator in the world with the reasoning of "i've been doing it longer than you". Nevermind i went to school for it, got certified, and worked in an actual fab shop making parts people actually pay for. So he does the majority of the fabricating just because i don't feel like arguing. His finest: Attachment 184610 Didn't grind paint / zinc away and didn't even weld the seam. |
Roda, i fucking love you, and you just gave me my answer to my 86' bronco's rear rack idea for holding my shit for offroading.
Im not saying im gonna somewhat copy you, but im going to copy you somewhat. |
Thanks!
Here's the build thread for more info and pics: Rodan's rear bumper build - FSB Forums Hinges and recovery points came from Tire Carrier Parts & Accessories | Competition 4x4 |
wow thanks for sharing the links, i guess thats where ill be for the rest of the night haha
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 1023709)
Finished this Ferrari gtb-4 Daytona Spyder exhaust. Full factory replica out of stainless, everything from the mufflers, to the resonance chambers, to the heat shields, all made from scratch.
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Building a 5 cubic foot subwoofer box for a home theatre.
One 15" driver at 1000wrms. Wife thinks it will be "reasonable" Attachment 126711 Box parts cut on the table saw, two more cuts to the bottom peices and I can do a dry fit up. The sub driver... Attachment 126712 Attachment 126713 |
you called it a driver instead of a speaker...... i love this forum
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1179935)
you called it a driver instead of a speaker...... i love this forum
;) Hopefully have it together this weekend, minus one side maybe if im still sealing the wood. I hate smelling MDF in cars/houses with fresh boxes so im going to seal the wood inside and out. Im using a Dayton Audio 1,000W plate amp, some grill material on a removable grille face, with T-nuts and heavy duty hardware. It should be good for some serious bass. Im mostly interested in movies, but I am building it for response with music too. Design: Attachment 184597 Plus bracing that I don't have listed in that draft. |
those bronco bumpers kickass.
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What driver is that? I've got a 12" sonosub with the Dayton copy of the Adire Audio Shiva (Shiva was discontinued when Adire went under) in my movie theater, but am leaning towards augmenting that with either a single or pair of 15's. Dayton has some solid candidates including the Ultimax, reference series, and Titanic drivers, but that beast from TC sounds is one heck of a driver...
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Its a new old stock subwoofer a friend gave me.
1st gen power acoustic fubar 15. Made before Power Acoustik went cheap build on their stuff. The sub is likely 10 years old. 93db sensitivity, 1000wrms/2000max, 13mm xmax, FS @ 27hz. I will be stretching it to make it down to the frequencies for home theatre. The box is designed for flat response 20hz to iirc 45/50hz with a slow fall to 80hz where I assume my bose 701's will pick up. This will bring me up to a 2.1 for the home theatre, driven my a Denon AVR-1913 (7.1 receiver). Im not wasting time with crappy speakers for surrounds- there is nothing to be gained by that. |
You will love it. I have a set of Cerwin Vega D9 speakers with 15" woofers. Makes explosions and gunfire really rock. Sadly, they both need refoamed.
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A 15" subwoofer vs 2 15" woofers like you would have in your speakers are two different things. I agree though, this will really liven up the low end
Running the Bose 701s alone is nice, but the low end really falls off as you turn it up. They are great main speakers though, and have 2 8" woofers per cabinet for midbass. This should totally rock anything and everything commercially available in the same price range. |
Built a subwwofer enclosure last year
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Dual opposed 12" sealed Infinity drivers. Found the design online and liked how small it was. Also had great numbers. All birch, all corners mitered, double layered with glue front and back, and a slotted in brace section in the middle. Additional bracing to tie the front middle and back together.
Dual Opposed Infinity Reference 1262W | Audioholics Home Theater Forums Using 1/2 this amp (The QSC PLX is probably too nice of an amp to use for just a sub but you get out what you put in): QSC PLX1602 Power Amp at zZounds More than powerful enough to move the couch, but very clean. Always wanted to make a grill/cover. Maybe you have inspired me to make the speaker cloth grills. I had to free hand the outside holes since I didn't have a router to finish them off and they look okay, but they bother me. Also have a single 12" sealed in another enclosure for fill using the other 1/2 of the amp. |
update on the death scooter. I screwed up my first order from hobby king and it took 2 months to figure it out since the quoted shipping time from hong kong was 45 days. Then I realized I could specify the american warehouse, pay $2 more for the parts and save $10 on shipping and get it in a week. Finished it all up, and drove about 10 feet before the battery popped, they're sending me a new one. I think I can fix the first one, the connection at one of the main wires just must have been poorly made.
It was completely absolutely stupid for those 10 feet through. Literally the first time I hit the gas it just shot out from under my feet so fast that I landed on my feet like nothing happened. I might feature creep the fuck out of it though, if I nuke the battery again and get a 3rd one from them. I found a way to use an arduino and 2 mosfet shields to make a 360A motor controller for ~$50 which should cover the 250A that this motor can pull. |
Leafy, I must have missed you talking about this before but it sounds like fun. Link?
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I think its on the previous page of this thread. Think BBC starter motor on a razor scooter with 10" pneumatic tires geared to top out ~20mph.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1182500)
I think its on the previous page of this thread.
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