emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Thanks but we have R&D facilities and an engineer here.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Best of luck.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

any other questions?

jwasilko

Johnny:

I race a 1995 Miata in SCCA's Improved Touring A class. It limits me to stock brakes.

I have run Carbotech XP12/XP10 (f/r) for many years, and really like the feel. However, I don't like the wear rate and cost.

What would be worth trying from other brake pad manufacturers that has similar characteristics to the XP12/XP10 ?

Thanks!

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

12's are pretty fast wearing. I'd suggest XP24 front with XP10 rear. The XP24's will have anywhere from 40-80% longer life based on my experience. Bite is a tad higher with XP24, peak torque significantly higher. Modulation and release very similar.

Dunning Kruger Affect

Does any one have input on the new Hawk DTC-50s? Hawk hasn't published a mu vs temp graph (yet) as far as I can tell.

dasting

No experience with them here, but this is from the Hawk site:

Dunning Kruger Affect

Apparently I'm bad at looking at websites. Thanks for that.

dasting

It took me forever to find too. Oh, here's the direct link in case it changes: Compound Graph | Hawk Performance

ofspunk7

Copied from thread - LINK

For those of you joining us now part of my response will make no sense because it was copied from a different thread (see link).

My Question?
Is it really a bad idea to swap over to the 11" BBK and 1.8 rears? I am still reasearching this but made the post because I noticed some people talking about going back to OEM brake options. I am still open to "better" rear brake options that mesh with the 11" fronts better. I would hate to throw off the braking balance. Also if the key is running a different master cylinder I am 100% open to that as well.

Educate me on your opinions and SCIENCE.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

generally when you see a leak like that your MC is leaking into your booster. Brake fluid is nasty stuff and will eat a booster. so when you do see these leaks it's time to replace both.

if you where looking for an upgrade we do need to pick out a well balanced system that will increase braking performance. i need to ask what are your power goals, and chassis weight? do specify if that weight is with or without driver.

ofspunk7

Yeah I assume both required replacement.

Power will be around 300 - 350 at the wheels. Still tossing around running pump gas or E85. That is going to make the largest factor in power. Turbo and dyno tune scheduled for spring. Everything went good with the engine swap so a few weeks in the spring NA then we swap more stuff over. The WHP figures above are based on a previous dyno tune at an earlier stage in this setup's life.

Weight... 91 Maita. Honestly I am never going to care enough to worry about this. My track time will always be some sort of driving school/self improvement/fun. I have zero interest in racing others at this point in my life. My track time usually consists of myself with an instructor or solo running with the instructors also on track and perfecting my lines (cat and mouse). I enjoy running with my buddies who are better than me or trying to keep up with our actual driving instructors (they keep it on a learn, follow, push level) We put on multiple driving/race school at 2 different tracks throughout the year. Typically my buddy likes it when i host them because I am pretty OCD. So I over the summer I will see 1 - 2 days a month. This year will depend on the car being finished. Previous years I ran my built WRX. My lap times average 20 - 25 mins. The amount I run depends on the size of the class and how burnt out the drivers are (people on track in open lapping). I always get some good seat time at these events. Sometimes it is 2 or 3 lapping sessions... sometimes it is more than I can keep track of. It all depends on what I feel like running that day, what the students look like on the track and how open each group is (on course population).

I will be running my street tires. Currently star specs but they will need replacement this summer.

Brake Fluid is always fresh before and after track days.

Street Pads come off and track pads go on.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

weight might not mean anything to you but it will play a major factor in deciding your brakes. 300hp is a lot of power in a miata. it sounds like your going to keep it a fun street car. i would guess the weight will be around 2400lbs, with a turbo your looking at 57% cross weight. with that much mass over the front tires i would strongly recommend the 11.75" kit. i would also recommend the upgraded rear rotors to a sport size rotor. anything less with that much power and weight your going to chew up rotors constantly.

ofspunk7

I was looking at the 11" kit because they work with the wheels I have. I have not downloaded the template to check to see if the 11.75" kit will work with my tires. The 11" was pretty close to the max my tires would allow.
- Konig wide open 15x8 wheels

When speaking about a sport brake, are you saying a 1.8 brake swap?

From the limited research I have done it seems that there are only OEM brake booster options. However, there is aftermarket master cylinder options. Personally, I would like to keep my hardlines where they are in the engine bay. Any suggestions if I swap to a larger rear brake and 11"s BBK up front?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

Miata Big Brakes, Newest VERSION 4 kit, OUR BEST FOUR WHEEL MIATA BIG BRAKE KIT- with forged four piston calipers! for Miata 1990-1993

here you go. i recommend the 11.75" if you feel like swapping out rotors a lot then get the 11". i tried to find the sport rotor -> 1.6l rear brake offset on 949 racing but couldn't. i tried though.

ofspunk7

Already running the SS lines. Would you suggest running an OEM MC with a setup like this?

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

we discussed quite a few setups. most of the ones on the market will work with a oem MC.

ofspunk7

My basic knowledge of the OEM MC does lead me to believe that it will work. I guess I am more or less asking if there is an aftermarket MC that has a benefit and is worth upgrading to (without having to mess with the hardlines too much).

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

a smaller master cylinder will increase line pressure, it will also increase pedal travel. a larger MC will decrease line pressure, and shorten travel. neater one will give an over all performance advantage. If you feel your pushing too hard on the pedal and you want it to be lighter, change to a smaller MC. If your running out of room in pedal area and want the travel to be shorter, change to a larger mc.

ysleem

iTrader: (5)

I just read this whole thread today and it was a FANTASTIC read. Johnny you have a plethora of knowledge and thanks for posting this information up for others to learn!

This made me go and drive my miata. 1.6L bone stock with SS lines and OEM 1.6L brake calipers rotors and some advanced wagner silver pads on front and back.

If I am going to turbocharge my miata to around 200hp, keep the stock weight (plus the turbo setup), based on reading these articles I can conclude that upgrading to a full brake kit for say 600-5K would without a doubt improve my braking performance. However, for the guy on a budget it sounds like getting some better pads and experimenting with what a. best suits my (probably not that good) driving style and b. is applicable to environment I will be using it in is the best path forward(a couple autoxs but mostly street use).

What would your input on that be? Any recommendations?