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Old 12-10-2014, 03:14 PM   #201
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Any idea when Stoptech is going to release their kit? I presume they will use the same ST40 caliper on the front?
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:19 PM   #202
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This is the ST replacement for the Dynalite AFAIK (Axial version):

StopTech STR-42 Caliper

Same mount spacing, offset is off by 1mm if I'm reading it all correctly..
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Old 12-10-2014, 11:49 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
This is the ST replacement for the Dynalite AFAIK (Axial version):

StopTech STR-42 Caliper

Same mount spacing, offset is off by 1mm if I'm reading it all correctly..
Does this mean it won't substitute for a Dynalite on a standard BBK (11" or 11.75")? How hard would it be to adapt?
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:40 AM   #204
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it should bolt on, dependent on where it's off by 1 mm. I was talking with stop tech about this about a year ago. the caliper should be released by now.
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:49 AM   #205
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All I have found this excellent video that has examples of almost everything that can happen with a brake system.
Let’s walk through it.
@ :9 sec-:15sec – the outer edge of the rotor is heating up first, this is bad. We want to see the heat start at the center of the rotor. This is telling me the rotor is coning.

@:24sec further prof of the coning rotor. you can clearly see the outer edge of the rotor has drag marks in it. the cone in the rotor is causing the rotor to dragging. Drag kills straight line speed, ads heat to the system, boiled fluid, kills hubs ect.

@ :35sec you can see the edge of the rotor is changing direction, and starting to cone inwards. Evidence of this is by the very sharp and fine heat band around the rotor. It’s starting to create a wave pattern.

@ :48 sec you can see a very wide band. This tells me that the rotor has cooled and is returning to a normal state. The location of the heat band is on the outter edge. This tells me that although the rotor has cooled the caliper is red hot and starting to flex. That flex is putting brake pressure on the outer ring of the rotor.

@ 1:10, 1:17, 1:28, 1:45, and 2:09. I see no abnormalities and the rotor and brake caliper is working well. Apart from the haze on the outer 1/3 of the rotor, is still dragging when the brakes are not applied.

@2:29 two Heat rings form. This is telling me the rotor is back to Coning and is about to warp. This rotor must be a straight veined unit.

Last edited by OGRacing; 12-11-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 12-11-2014, 11:20 AM   #206
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Now I want to go back in time 3-4 months and aim a Go-Pro at my front rotor. Good, illustrative video - thanks.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:38 PM   #207
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Are brake master cylinder brakes worthwhile or money better spent on actually upgrading the brake system?
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:41 PM   #208
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GoPro all the things!
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:52 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOABmiata View Post
Are brake master cylinder brakes worthwhile or money better spent on actually upgrading the brake system?
i'm sorry what master cylinders are you referring to?
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:12 AM   #210
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:38 AM   #211
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ah. well that's two different questions. Normally i work with Twin master cylinder brake pedals. those are mounted directly to a roll cage. if your pedal is moving due to the mounting points being soft... that's bad. part of you pedal effort is going into flexing your firewall. Theoretically this brace will stop that. it won't change the performance of your system though.

It should help with pedal feel, but don't expect it to shorten your stopping distance.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:38 PM   #212
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any more questions?
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:10 PM   #213
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If I want the best brake kit available right now from some vendor that keeps the stock parking brake, what should I get? My application is 2001 NB with Sport brakes and the car is a DD/roadtrip/HPDE car. What kit and brake pad should I run? Should I get a proportioning valve too?

Are brake ducts like TSE or Singular's ok to run all the time or can they "overcool" the brakes?
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:18 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665 View Post
can they "overcool" the brakes?
Impossible, unless you are running full race pads that must be very hot to work.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:22 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665 View Post
If I want the best brake kit available right now from some vendor that keeps the stock parking brake, what should I get? My application is 2001 NB with Sport brakes and the car is a DD/roadtrip/HPDE car. What kit and brake pad should I run? Should I get a proportioning valve too?

Are brake ducts like TSE or Singular's ok to run all the time or can they "overcool" the brakes?
the best hands down would be a PFC full floating kit. you'll need 15" steel wheels for it to fit, and it cost 6k.

Realistically the V8 roadsters 11.75" kit (F), add a joes racing floating rotor kit, PFC 299.20.0045.01/02 rotors, Flyin' miata brake bias adjuster, a rear sport rotor, na8 rear calipers, 949 na8 caliper-sport rotor adapter plate pfc 01 pads out front, and pfc 06 pads out back. combine that with some good tires and not too much caster you'll out brake a GT-R (fancy abs) from 150 mph-0
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:24 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Impossible, unless you are running poor quality race pads that must be very hot to work.
fixed for ya bud. i never heard "I over cooled my brakes" until i got into the club racing world. if you got a good pad like the pfc's six shooter runs, you wont need to worrying about over cooling the brakes.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:27 PM   #217
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*^he meant camber and not caster
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:54 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
*^he meant camber and not caster
nope caster....


this is my car. i have the v8 roadsters control arms. i now know that i need to be careful when you tell the alignment guy "give me as much caster as it will give me". He came back and said "you got 8*". 8* of caster, with rain and the fact I forgot to pull my spring rubbers. well that equals one heck of a flat spotted tire. :/. according to the corner workers i slid the tire for 50-75 yards. i couldn't tell it was dragging because it was raining (no noise), an the car was stopping like garbage anyway.
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:50 PM   #219
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And that's a camber flat spot.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:27 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OGRacing View Post
the best hands down would be a PFC full floating kit. you'll need 15" steel wheels for it to fit, and it cost 6k.

Realistically the V8 roadsters 11.75" kit (F), add a joes racing floating rotor kit, PFC 299.20.0045.01/02 rotors, Flyin' miata brake bias adjuster, a rear sport rotor, na8 rear calipers, 949 na8 caliper-sport rotor adapter plate pfc 01 pads out front, and pfc 06 pads out back. combine that with some good tires and not too much caster you'll out brake a GT-R (fancy abs) from 150 mph-0
Thank you. I already have NB Sport rears, so what do the NA8 calipers do better?
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