CHRA/turbine bolts relaxing. - Page 8 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


General Miata Chat A place to talk about anything Miata

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 02-22-2011, 06:38 PM   #141
y8s
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
 
y8s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,038
Total Cats: 407
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
I can't yet.
case of beer and andrew jackson might get your machinst to solve hustlers problem?
y8s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 06:49 PM   #142
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Anyone who talks **** to Tim prior to me getting my bolts in hand is getting banned!!!
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 06:50 PM   #143
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,484
Total Cats: 248
Default

I'm special in a way that doesn't help us here.

Case of beer does work for payment for this guy if I can't figure it out $20 might cover the drill bits if they work. Otherwise the carbide jobbies are $20 each :(
TurboTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 07:02 PM   #144
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

I'll pay for a few drill bits and a couple packs of fine Belgian Ale.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 07:05 PM   #145
y8s
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
 
y8s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,038
Total Cats: 407
Default

solid carbide bits aren't that much at your local mcmaster.


Jobbers’–Length Drill Bits
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 118 Split Straight 2956A61 $7.51
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 150 Split Straight 3171A31 11.59
Long-Life TiN Coated 118 Split Straight 27515A34 9.24
Super-Life TiALN Coated 118 Split Straight 8879A12 9.24
Diamond-Coated 118 Split Straight 3162A11 24.67
Straight Flute Drill Bits
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 135 Split Straight 8944A11 $9.36
Long-Life TiN Coated 135 Split Straight 8882A11 10.89
Specialty Drill Bits
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 118 Standard Straight 8769A21 $10.05
Uncoated (Bright Finish) 130 Standard Round 2841A94 4.51
Uncoated (Bright Finish) ___ ___ Straight 2828A7 12.82


The internets suggest a flatter point (150 degrees) and high speeds with slow feeds are the way to go but I am not the expert.
y8s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:01 PM   #146
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,484
Total Cats: 248
Default

damn, ok i searched incorrectly on mcmaster as i only got the one $25 carbide bit when I searched std. jobber 1/16. Odd. Just doing carbide & 1/16 gives me those...thanks matt!
TurboTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:18 PM   #147
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,107
Total Cats: 518
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
I am not the expert.
I more or less used to be. Even a $50 drill bit does not mean he'll be able to drill it. It'll be down to the rigidity of his machine and fixture. Obviously Hustler with said $50 drill bit, his ebay fixture, and his drill press still wouldn't be able to drill them. Sounds like even a manual mill might not have the rigidity or rpm range necessary.

Sounds like he needs a decent peck cycle on a CNC with slowish feeds. Or said voodoo machinist.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 10:44 PM   #148
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

This bolt situation is gay.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 11:03 PM   #149
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 1,850
Total Cats: -8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
This bolt situation is gay.


You know what else is gay? Not calling someone in your own state that advertises in specializing in drilling holes in this exact type of bolt. Or just use the nordlocks.
BenR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2011, 11:06 PM   #150
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Gainesville,Fl
Posts: 3,354
Total Cats: 7
Default

lol
turotufas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 12:39 AM   #151
y8s
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
 
y8s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,038
Total Cats: 407
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I more or less used to be. Even a $50 drill bit does not mean he'll be able to drill it. It'll be down to the rigidity of his machine and fixture. Obviously Hustler with said $50 drill bit, his ebay fixture, and his drill press still wouldn't be able to drill them. Sounds like even a manual mill might not have the rigidity or rpm range necessary.

Sounds like he needs a decent peck cycle on a CNC with slowish feeds. Or said voodoo machinist.
Right... which is why shops charge a couple hundred bucks to drill a handful of bolts. gotta pay for the Fadal.

Incidentally, more googling came up with EDM as another option. Not sure on cost but at least you're using up electrodes instead of breaking drills.
y8s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2011, 12:48 AM   #152
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,107
Total Cats: 518
Default

Fadal, Haas, Mazak, Bridgeport, Cincinnati, Viper, Mori-Seiki...pick your $20,000+ poison.

I probably saved over 5 grand in machine work while working as a machinist.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:04 PM   #153
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

I may buy some scrap aluminum at Homo Depot and try to fabricate something to attach to the turbine-outlet v-band clamp, connecting to the 2 rearward engine mount bolts. I'm assuming the manifold with "grow" outward, toward the adjuster on my AST 5100 Super Badass Elitist Shock so I'll try to keep this in mine before I fail at life. The difficulty will be making the piece rigid on 2-planes, flexible on the other.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:10 PM   #154
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

I may be misunderstanding what/where it is going on, so if this makes no sense, then just ignore it.

Can you make a clamp that will have attatchment points on both sides of the housing, and then have two to three threaded adjusters that will allow you to pull both parts together.

To give a simple shape of what i am talking about. Imagine two rings connected to one another by threaded adjusters. This allows you to adjust the distance between the rings, or clamp something in between. One ring would attatch to the CHRA bolts ( I know it couldn't be a ring, but you get the idea)
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:14 PM   #155
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I may be misunderstanding what/where it is going on, so if this makes no sense, then just ignore it.

Can you make a clamp that will have attatchment points on both sides of the housing, and then have two to three threaded adjusters that will allow you to pull both parts together.

To give a simple shape of what i am talking about. Imagine two rings connected to one another by threaded adjusters. This allows you to adjust the distance between the rings, or clamp something in between. One ring would attatch to the CHRA bolts ( I know it couldn't be a ring, but you get the idea)
I think your idea is attacking a symptom, not the problem. The problem lies at the turbine housing (I think) and it's harmonic vibration. I'm curious though, if I damp the vibration at the compressor housing, does that mean the turbine housing is still essentially vibrating, therefor stressing the CHRA hardware? Should I consider the entire turbo one piece in regards to where I apply the damping, or target the turbine like JKav told me initially?
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:17 PM   #156
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I think your idea is attacking a symptom, not the problem. The problem lies at the turbine housing (I think) and it's harmonic vibration. I'm curious though, if I damp the vibration at the compressor housing, does that mean the turbine housing is still essentially vibrating, therefor stressing the CHRA hardware? Should I consider the entire turbo one piece in regards to where I apply the damping, or target the turbine like JKav told me initially?
I think if you clamp the two pieces togetehr it will cause them to oscillate at the same amplitude and frequency, which should eliminate the bolt issue. However, like you said, this is just tackling the symptom. The energy will be transferred elswhere, so soemthing else will stressed harder. If it can take it, then there will be no issues.

I don't think that you can think of them as one piece, because it appears that they are displaying seperate harmonics.

Ideally: Get those two pieces to act as one, then tackle the vibration of the system.
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:19 PM   #157
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,107
Total Cats: 518
Default

I say you make something ghetto and half assed before handing any car or money over to someone else. That's always been my motto. If my sloppy fix doesn't do it, making it pretty and expensive won't either.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:24 PM   #158
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I say you make something ghetto and half assed before handing any car or money over to someone else. That's always been my motto. If my sloppy fix doesn't do it, making it pretty and expensive won't either.
What are your thoughts on damping this vibration at the turbine outlet v-band? I'm worried about stressing that too.

I find it someone ironic that the MSM, which get's so much negativity and considered to be a terrible turbo car" has this problem figured out and I'm looking for a way to replicate it.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:33 PM   #159
Elite Member
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,982
Total Cats: 10
Default

Could you do something as simple as bracing your DP to stabilize the rear part of the turbo??? The DP is probably torquing quite a bit as the exaust is bouncing around. Think about the length of that lever arm.
miatauser884 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2011, 01:36 PM   #160
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
Could you do something as simple as bracing your DP to stabilize the rear part of the turbo??? The DP is probably torquing quite a bit as the exaust is bouncing around. Think about the length of that lever arm.
I don't understand how torsion on the exhaust is going to affect the CHRA hardware, they aren't connected in that regard. Torsion on the DP would affect the turbine/turbo flange but that's not the problem.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another Cast Manifold Corky Bell Prefabbed Turbo Kits 18 11-22-2016 10:01 PM
Need help - Stock Balancer and Fastforward overlay pulleys Frank_and_Beans Supercharger Discussion 13 09-12-2016 09:17 PM
WTB Bellhousing Bolts patsmx5 WTB 1 10-01-2015 10:43 AM
Worm drive clamps are better than t-bolt clamps aidandj Insert BS here 80 09-18-2015 08:19 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:49 PM.