Definitely not just Hailey. Most of my customers get in the car and crank it one way or the other. Sometimes I want to ask them "Do you REALLY want it to be 90 degrees in here? REALLY FOOL?"
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Is the "Auto" climate control "dual zone?"
If so, that's really nice if you and the other half like different temps. This one girl I'm seeing, I'll typically have the air on my side while she has the heated seat on and the temp up a litte higher on her side. |
Originally Posted by fooger03
(Post 1367197)
-auto climate control
This is actually a pretty tits feature to those that don't have it (crap, I mean it's a "great" feature - sorry about the locker room talk). Unless of course my wife is driving - she will forever not get the point of climate control. If she's cold, it will always be set to the highest temperature, if she's warm, it will forever be set to max cold. The end result is just about the same as a very large percentage of women who I have ridden with, regardless of a climate control option, whose blower vents are always set to "boeing 747" and are never actually comfortable in their car. My value: $400. Also, those hot flashes tho. |
Unless of course my wife is driving - she will forever not get the point of climate control. If she's cold, it will always be set to the highest temperature, if she's warm, it will forever be set to max cold. The end result is just about the same as a very large percentage of women who I have ridden with, regardless of a climate control option, whose blower vents are always set to "boeing 747" and are never actually comfortable in their car. |
Large construction equipment all has automatic a/c temp control. Even still I can't get in a machine that hasn't been set to 63F by the previous inhabitant. I use it properly but would still prefer cable operated simplicity and reliability.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1367334)
Large construction equipment all has automatic a/c temp control. Even still I can't get in a machine that hasn't been set to 63F by the previous inhabitant. I use it properly but would still prefer cable operated simplicity and reliability.
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Auto climate control systems are stupid, I'd much rather have the old three-knobs-and-two-buttons version that my NB uses.
Why are they stupid? Well, they're using a thermostat to target a given interior ambient air temperature. In a house that's not a bad idea, because that's a good proxy for occupant comfort level. In a car it's not, the big panes of glass everywhere means that the question of whether or not the sun is beating down on you is much more relevant than in a house. I don't *want* the car to be at 70F, what I want is to be able to directly control the temperature and speed of the air that's blowing on me. --Ian |
My BRZ has "Auto" and "Dual" zone climate control. But it's only "Auto" if you hit that button.
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I am not bothered by heat or cold. Does not effect me.
All I need is a decent defroster so I can see where I am going. So, screw the fancy schmancy climate control crap. |
Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 1367415)
I am not bothered by heat or cold. Does not effect me.
All I need is a decent defroster so I can see where I am going. So, screw the fancy schmancy climate control crap. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1367434)
LOL. You have no idea what heat and cold is. Whatever difficulties Turkey has, a harsh climate is not one of them. You have a beautiful country, BTW! :)
20 years in Anchorage, AK. Known to be cold. And working under stacks and stacks of lights all summer, where plastic screens were melting. Or, translating training lectures for equine vets in the field, in 40C weather (100+F) in southern Turkey... Didn't bother me. |
Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1367339)
Well to be fair, we live in Florida and it's hot as fuck. I leave the climate control in my Sequoia to the coldest temperature at all times and just adjust the fan speed because it never makes it so cold I am uncomfortable. I only use an actual temperature when it's cool outside and I need it warmer in the vehicle. That is a fairly rare occurrence.
Compare to Subaru's offerings. Our 2006 Outback in New Zealand appeared to have climate control, it would let you set a temperature, but worked so miserably I was manually adjusting what/where/how hard it blew all the time, but with stupid have-to-look-at-them buttons instead of the 3-knob manual control standard that has existed for decades that allows you to just adjust that shit without taking your eyes off the road. Our 2016 Outback here in the States is quite a bit better, but still makes weird decisions about where to have the fan blowing sometimes. The Odyssey just works. |
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1367678)
Until you drive a vehicle in which it just works. Our 2006 Odyssey has excellent logic controlling the hvac system. Other than adjusting the temp up or down a bit, maybe hitting the defroster button, I don't have to interact with it at all. It just works. Triple zone allows everyone to be comfortable (only driver/passenger are automatic, rear is adjust as you want).
--Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1367685)
We have a 2007 Odyssey, it's no better than the other auto climate control systems. Fundamentally the problem is that it's measuring the wrong thing.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1367339)
Well to be fair, we live in Florida and it's hot as fuck. I leave the climate control in my Sequoia to the coldest temperature at all times and just adjust the fan speed because it never makes it so cold I am uncomfortable. I only use an actual temperature when it's cool outside and I need it warmer in the vehicle. That is a fairly rare occurrence.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1367755)
You do know that if you just left it set at 60whatever it would just do exactly what you're doing now right? The auto climat control in the wrx is awesome. If you set it cole when its blisteringy hot outside it'll run everything full blast and then slowly bring the fan speed down while full cold, and if it manages to keep up at that point once the fan is low it'll start blending in some warm air, but it'll never get to that if its over 90.
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#firstworldproblems
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1367233)
I still want a Sport. Arrrrrrrhhhhh!!!!!
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1368020)
Buy mine in a few months :naughty:
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Starting to sound like miata.net in here! This must be remedied.
http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/downlo...hp?id=4013&t=1 Taking the ND out to the GTA Finals in a few weeks. We'll be running it in the entry-level Enthusiast RWD class. Looking at the entries, we're going to be up against M3s, 350Z, etc. Should be fun. |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1367685)
We have a 2007 Odyssey, it's no better than the other auto climate control systems. Fundamentally the problem is that it's measuring the wrong thing.
--Ian |
More fuel to the fire. Red plot is same as the one I posted a page or two back. This is just to illustrate the difference in area under the curve after a reflash. Where the OEM tune starts to nose over at 5800 and wheezes to it's 6600rpm soft cut, the reflash is still climbing to a peak around 6700 with over rev capability to 7300. Night and day behavior even though the peak is only 14whp difference. At the OEM redline, the reflash is making another 21whp and still pulling hard. Moral is, regardless of which exhaust you do or do not install and which reflash you choose, do it.
This is my tune on EcuTek, still learning the ECU. Maybe 50 total pulls with a variety of exhaust since we got the car 13 months ago. Most of the pros offering reflashes for sale have thousands of pulls with their software and/or SAG's. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1900567d9a.jpg |
Up top the header/reflash really make a damn impressive difference.
There is a reason I'm not letting myself go drive one of these. |
I'm frankly surprised they left that much on the table. It's typical for OEM's to dumb things down, but you usually don't see stuff like this on naturally aspirated modern 4 bangers in sporty cars.
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The ND is going to turn into an S2000 with all these top end gains ;)
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1368496)
The ND is going to turn into an S2000 with all these top end gains ;)
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I realize that, I was just kidding. The extremely broad torque band is one of my favorite things about the car. Top end HP gains are exactly what this thing needs and that is what you are showing.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1368484)
I'm frankly surprised they left that much on the table. It's typical for OEM's to dumb things down, but you usually don't see stuff like this on naturally aspirated modern 4 bangers in sporty cars.
Even on the BRZ, gutting the cat on the stock header gets you 90% of what a fancy aftermarket header will do. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1368484)
I'm frankly surprised they left that much on the table. It's typical for OEM's to dumb things down, but you usually don't see stuff like this on naturally aspirated modern 4 bangers in sporty cars.
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You're a moron if you honestly think that the 2.0L was a last minute decision and that the transmission issues aren't a metallurgy problem.
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Originally Posted by Dunning Kruger Affect
(Post 1368567)
You're a moron if you honestly think that the 2.0L was a last minute decision and that the transmission issues aren't a metallurgy problem.
Again, my caveat is I'm just thinking out loud. Please don't be triggered. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1368499)
As much as I like the S2000 I would take an ND any day. The low-end and mid-range torque this thing has is massive and the suspension actually works. As a daily driver it's a 15 year difference in tech as far as amenities go. No contest.
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1368502)
I realize that, I was just kidding. The extremely broad torque band is one of my favorite things about the car. Top end HP gains are exactly what this thing needs and that is what you are showing.
... except that the seats suck :P |
Actually the 2.0L decision coming late in the ND development cycle is basically true. The decision was taken after feedback from US that the 1.5L would hurt it in the US market.
The 1.5L is zingy with sport car-y top weighted powerband. The 2.0 SAG is the motor from the 3 almost verbatim, only a slightly different exhaust cam, header and tune. |
As an engineer, when scope changes come down the pipe late in the cycle the process is:
1) make it physically fit 2) wire it up 3) turn it on 4) test it per the spec 5) management promises to implement the fixes/improvements for non spec failure type issues at a later date 6) fucking ship it |
You forgot
0) curse at management for being f**king idiots, AGAIN. --Ian |
My ND is the 1.5 Liter version and I am amazed with the Engine until now. It´s stronger that any stock NB1 (Even with 3.9 and 6 speed) and any stock NB2 that I have tested. I use a local Dyno Dynamics and every NB1 with bp4w never reaches 140 Hp, they deliver about low 130 , the NB2 with Bp-ZE never reached the claimed 146, they do about 138/140. And I have dyno´ed over there more than 20 cars.
My little 1.5 made stock 139 Ps and 165 nm stock, and now with Ovtune i am at 153 PS and 175 nm. This was on the 3rd tune, now were are on the 5th revision but due to health issues I have not driven the car for a couple of weeks. Hope to be on dyno maybe next week or the other. Just for curiosity, it weights 980kg with ¼ of tank of fuel on it J Ps: Power at the fly. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3dce9638da.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...86ee6c77df.jpg |
That's great. The tune just lifted the entire torque curve (on a hotter day, no less).
I also like how the OEM 1.5L doesn't die up top. I like that a lot better than what I felt in the Fiat 124 I rented in Italy. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1368575)
I was just musing. No call for the "M" word. I wasn't in on the product planning, and neither were you. But I work full time in engineering and dealing with regulatory agencies, and I know how these things go. I know that Mazda left no fat on the car when it engineered the 1.5L version. It also seems that, other than the motor, there aren't significant differences between the 1.5L and 2.0L cars. Compare that to how different a 1993 NA 1.6L is from a 1994 NA 1.8L . . . everything on the car is upgraded for the bigger motor and evolving safety standards.
Again, my caveat is I'm just thinking out loud. Please don't be triggered. |
Originally Posted by Filipe Dias
(Post 1368766)
My ND is the 1.5 Liter version and I am amazed with the Engine until now. It´s stronger that any stock NB1 (Even with 3.9 and 6 speed) and any stock NB2 that I have tested. I use a local Dyno Dynamics and every NB1 with bp4w never reaches 140 Hp, they deliver about low 130 , the NB2 with Bp-ZE never reached the claimed 146, they do about 138/140. And I have dyno´ed over there more than 20 cars.
My little 1.5 made stock 139 Ps and 165 nm stock, and now with Ovtune i am at 153 PS and 175 nm. This was on the 3rd tune, now were are on the 5th revision but due to health issues I have not driven the car for a couple of weeks. Hope to be on dyno maybe next week or the other. Just for curiosity, it weights 980kg with ¼ of tank of fuel on it J Ps: Power at the fly. The BP-ZE numbers you are saying are in the same format as the 1.5 ND numbers? The 1.5 makes 25 nm more of torque?? Also, it looks like the stock redline was about 7400 and you are going up to 7700 now? I think a C15-60 Rotrex on one of these engines, revving to 8k, would be insanely fun! |
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1369222)
I hope your health improves soon.
The BP-ZE numbers you are saying are in the same format as the 1.5 ND numbers? The 1.5 makes 25 nm more of torque?? Also, it looks like the stock redline was about 7400 and you are going up to 7700 now? I think a C15-60 Rotrex on one of these engines, revving to 8k, would be insanely fun! Yes, they are. Stock the 1.5 makes about more 15nm than a BP-ZE and with Ecu about 25 nm more and 14/15 Hp more untill now. Agree, a Rotrex on this would rock :) |
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Photochopped this version the day the first pics of the GCC showed on the webz.. I'd track it
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a22d629696.jpg |
Be honest, that's not nearly gutted enough for you
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Blackbird's photo just made me realize how much the ND resembles the Catfish.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1370152)
Be honest, that's not nearly gutted enough for you
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 1370154)
Blackbird's photo just made me realize how much the ND resembles the Catfish.
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:likecat:
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Originally Posted by Girz0r
(Post 1371299)
(pornography)
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Excuse me whilst I clean out my pantalones.
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I sent that video to a bunch of subie friends and the response was far better than I expected.
ALL OF THE GLORIOUS NOISES!!! |
From the SEMA floor, Edelbrock supercharger kit for the 2016 MX5! OEM-level quality and CARB legal! Uses a Gen VI Eaton TVS 900 supercharger with integrated water-air intercooler and includes an ECUtek tuning kit.
http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/downlo...hp?id=4079&t=1 http://www.mazdatalkforum.com/downlo...hp?id=4080&t=1 |
Interesting, I wonder why the TVS 900, the Edlebrock kit uses the TVS 1320 on the BRZ.
900 has less power potential. 1. Wonder if they will offer a powertrain warranty like they do on the BRZ? 2. Hopefully it won't need an aftermarket signal modifier to idle correctly and not surge in the midrange like BRZ kit. |
I wonder who they got to get around those mystery "torque limiters" that the battling ECU tuners guys agree/disagree even exist...
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so much win in here today
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gay tvs 900 is for pussies. 1320 is the proper size for a normal person's 2.0. Still too small if you're TNTuba.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1371410)
gay tvs 900 is for pussies. 1320 is the proper size for a normal person's 2.0. Still too small if you're TNTuba.
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needs a Kenne Bell 4.2L for daily driving, 4.7L for track, amirite TNTUBA?
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Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1371339)
Interesting, I wonder why the TVS 900, the Edlebrock kit uses the TVS 1320 on the BRZ.
900 has less power potential. 1. Wonder if they will offer a powertrain warranty like they do on the BRZ? 2. Hopefully it won't need an aftermarket signal modifier to idle correctly and not surge in the midrange like BRZ kit. 2. Likely no issue with the TVS900 The lead guy on this project is a friend of ours who used to work for Magnuson (producer of our MP62 kits for the NC). He was also the lead on the BRZ/FRS kit - and we have him to thank considering that Edelbrock wouldn't have even touched either of those platforms a couple years ago. The skinny from him is they went for the largest blower they could physically fit on the ND, and the 900 was a real squeeze requiring some creativity to fit. At any rate, they feel it's the right blower for this engine.
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1371342)
I wonder who they got to get around those mystery "torque limiters" that the battling ECU tuners guys agree/disagree even exist...
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Meanwhile the AVO kit is done, minus CARB and will be shipping within 8 weeks or so.
Ours is ordered. Then maybe we do a QBE60G Helical. I wonder if one could get the auto ND ECU to send a simple 0/12v, 0/5v, or grounding signal to actuate a shift solenoid. Many other EUC related complications I'm sure but,, the potential might be to use the Auto steering wheel with mini- flappy paddles to actuate the solenoid to run the shifter. Paired with native DBW control and you have semi-auto up and downshifting with flatshift and auto blip. And the ability to run 400bhp through. Might be fun, dunno. |
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