Calling it SOHC is kind of misleading, although it does only have 1 camshaft. The intake valves are actuated through solenoid-attenuated hydraulic paths rather than direct cam action. The variable intake valve lift that results substitutes for a throttle -- supposed to reduce pumping losses. Lookup "Multi-Air." Kind of cool, but I personally prefer KISS.

Sooooo like 30-40k miles? :giggle:

Just install a winch on the trailer. You are trailering your street tire shod auto-x car to events right? Cause you know, auto-x is srsbnz.

Yeah cuz missing runs when your car breaks is good for business.

Same. I won't put Mishimoto crap on my car.

What all is required to make my own? I need a thermostatic spacer, fittings, line and a bracket to mount it somewhere? I have never made anything and I hate working on cars, but I am getting sick of not having a good oil cooler to buy...

Buy a setrab cooler. Buy a mocal thermostat plate. go to town.

Well, I honestly think I would be okay with 200ish whp from just bolt-ons and a tune, so going with a bolt-on 2.5" exhaust in that case isn't a big deal. No one is biting at my ND for sale and the trade-in offers I keep getting are staying the same, so if someone comes out with evidence of the 124 being tuneable, then I would like to get one this month.

And how does he complete the event with a broken trans?

Honestly, you guys and your great ideas..

I like buying ready made solutions even if it costs more.

Order kit. Everything is in kit that I need. I install kit. Done.

No realizing I missed something, forgot something, need something else, etc in the middle of the doing it.

10 years ago I would have agreed with you. Because I had more time than money.

Well something happened in the ND market, because I keep testing dealers on trade-in values on my ND. They dropped from everyone saying 19k to 17k this month. What in the hell is wrong with the ND's value??

I found a VERY cheap 124 that I wanted to go get this next weekend, but not after that 17k trade-in offer.

you just eclipse 15k miles or something?

Every new car ever depreciates rapidly immediately after the initial purchase, especially the trade in value.
What did you pay new?

that plus I bet the trans issues and whatever other issues are scaring people and driving prices down

There is a 2016 ND for $19xxx on cl locally. So you can find used ones cheap if you really look and get lucky.

I don't know about your area but here the dealers are sitting on soft tops as only the RF's are selling. This would lead to a greater depreciation in the soft top cars.

Nope, I am only at 9200.

I want to modify this car so bad, but I have zero confidence in this transmission. I need to add a diff, but that has apparently been a major factor in the transmissions breaking in the first place. 9 out of 10 cars that break their transmissions have been Clubs with the OEM LSD.

I paid MSRP. No dealer within 3 hours would take a penny off MSRP when I bought it. I am a sucker. I bought a first year car, got ambushed with the transmission issue, and now I have lost my ass on massive depreciation.

Well, I guess I have accepted defeat. I can't get out of this car without worsening the financial situation further. I refinanced the ND to a much shorter term and lower interest rate. I want to get this thing paid off and I hope my transmission blows before the warranty is up. I will be selling my 01 and the huge collection of parts I have for it instead.

I called Puddymod about building me a rear diff with an OSGiken in it, but he didn't recommend it. He is going to get back to me and tell me if there are any other options out there.

Start autocrossing ASAP and launch it hard every. Single. Lap. Have AAA ready.

Earn a Gen2 box. By then there will be more data on whether or not it "fixes" the strength deficiency enough for you to justify modding the car.

Lol, I like your thinking. To go the extra step, you could have a buddy tow it a block from the autox and then call AAA, that way you were just driving and it blew up. No idea how that happened :dunno:

I've done that to a friends Camaro that oil starved at the track. Dragged it out to the parking lot out front and had it towed to the dealership.

"We were just hanging out. Nothing crazy."

The closest autocross course is 4 hours away and the lot has enough gravel that it might as well be rallycross. Plus they never seem to have one on my days off.

I went and got an alignment today. My car hasn't been touched until this point, so the OEM alignment was weird and I am still on the OEM Yokohamas. I had zero camber up front, wacky toe, and 8 degrees of caster. Out back I had -1.5 camber and wacky toe. I drove off with -1.5 camber all around, 8 degree caster up front, and zero toe all around. It responds so much better. It likes to dive into corners now. It dives, the marshmallow-soft suspension heaves over onto the bump stops, the tail kicks out, and then the open diff gives me some squeals. I am driving up to the mountains tomorrow. I have driven the same road before with the stock alignment, so it will be a good comparison.

I also test fit some 15x9 +35 offset Konig Dial-Ins that I have had laying around forever. The fronts fit with tons of clearance, but the rear brake caliper hose securing bolt is in solid contact in the rear and gave a nice gouge out of the paint when I spun the wheel to check for rubs. Everything is really close in the back. A rear Powerlite caliper kit from one of the various vendors is definitely needed out back. There is enough room up front to run a slightly bigger rotor, as long as the caliper is more compact.

What should be my priority for getting the ND ready for HPDE/track days? The next one I can hit will be in late September. My budget is $5000. I know I have to get a rollbar, so I will be getting the Blackbird one. I have also been in contact with Puddymod about building me a OSgiken diff out of my stock open one, but he did not recommend that. He is supposed to be looking into what other options are out there and getting back to me. I probably should just get an OEM one, because they are relatively cheap at $1250 for the whole assembly, ready to bolt in.

I realllllllllly don't want to put a Mishimoto oil cooler on my car, but I see no other options. It does seem necessary to run an oil cooler, because the oil temps have reportedly gone over 300 degrees and that is way too high. I don't like that the Mishimoto thermostat is 185 degrees.

My basic plan is:
1. Blackbird rollbar $1600
2. Ferodo DS2500 pads, SS brake lines, and Motul RBF 600 fluid $500
3. OEM differential installed with JBR mount $1750
4. Mishimoto oil cooler $675

That leaves about $500 left over in that $5000 budget. Anything else I should consider? I was thinking about getting a GWR muffler, because this thing is so silent and boring stock...

I thought you were thinking of selling the car?

Upside down and would take a loss.

No better time to modify and beat the hell out of it to guarantee an even bigger loss.

I have decided to keep the car. Resale value doesn't matter anymore because I am keeping it for a long time.

Also, when it comes to the financial issue, I cannot bring myself to pay the amount I am upside down on the ND out of my savings just get rid of it, so I am instead paying off all my credit cards, going from 4 cars to 2, and enjoying the 1000% more enjoyable engine in the ND over my NB.

Cook your own on the oil cooler? Find a Mocal thermo plate that works (why don't you like 185 temp on the oil), find a shop to make the lines, come up with a bracket to mount a Setrab core.

I always thought you would want oil to go above at least 212 to make sure there isn't any condensation in the oil? Maybe I need to read more...

Yeah, but it will still get that hot. Especially on track.

FlyinMiata had a 4th of July sale, so I bought their pedal covers, LBBK, and their Fox coilovers. I also bought some 225/50/15 Achilles ATR-K Sport tires from Evasive Motorsports. They had a 50% off promo going and I got them for $80 each.

FM's LBBK will allow me to fit my aforementioned 15x9 Konig Dial-Ins in the rear now and the 225/50 size is the same height as the stock 195/50/16s, so I should have no surprises there.

I still have the rollbar, oil cooler, and OEM diff to get before September. That will probably run me another 4k... yikes.

Thanks to you posting this, i just bought some 215s for my na! Sweet.

3rd of 14 in STR at the Packwood Pro!

https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachmen...1&d=1500422744

We might have toasted our 17" BFGs between the testing and running the Cal Club regional event the previous weeks, so Ken opted to split the Packwood event half and half 17"/15".
On fresh tires, 17" would have clearly been the way to go, and what Ron beat us with.

"Beaker" is playing a bit of catch-up, but we are super happy with a podium finish at our first 2017 SCCA National event in STR.

Thanks to Ken Motonishi for the wheelin'! Congrats to Dietz and Bauer for their excellent finishes as well!

https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachmen...1&d=1500422241

https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachmen...1&d=1500422270

Emilio, have you posted any dyno tuning results from E85 or 100 octane? I'm curious if E85 will give the same results on a shorty header as it did on my long tube header. I'm starting to think that E85 tuning is the majority of my gain, and the header type really doesn't matter too much. Thanks for any help and for all the great information that you post for the Miata folks.

No A/B testing yet. The mixed data points we have now indicate the long tube makes more area under the curve, but the shorty is better on top. But I would stress that those data points are not controlled. Different Fuel and different Mufflers so it's inconclusive until we do a direct A/B.

One thing for sure, the skyactiv loves octane.

Thanks. I'll keep my eye out for more testing on the subject.

Absolutely. The car is an entirely different machine on E85 versus 93, especially in hot weather.

I can't wait for Delicious Tuning to deliver on their flex fuel promises...

I ordered the BFW rollbar and an OEM diff assembly from MazMart. FM needs to ship my damn coilovers already! I am really going to try to get everything on and ready for Miatas at Hallett on September 9th.

I will need to install the rollbar, diff, coilovers, get the tires mounted on my 15x9's, and brakes in the next month. I hate working on cars. Plus, I need an oil cooler still...

Pics from BMW club autocross in San Diego today, courtesy of Brian Goodwin

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fbc47ecf04.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...60eadd479c.jpg

I see you got your Evo 2's installed. Are the seat rails you used for sale yet? I think I read you got them from PCI...

Oh, Emilio, I now see lots of comments about people saying that transmission and diff coolers are sorely needed. That and the LRR solutions require welding and don't work very well in the first place. Have you seen the need for them and are you working on any solution, if so?

Engine oil, dif, trans coolers recommeded on the ND for track use with an advanced driver. We do not have any on our car nor have any in development. Received virtually no Indies on track in California and not many around the country either. They are all being autocrossed. Eventually as the market changes we will pursue them perhaps.

PCI now has ND brackets. For more information contact them. Ours are heavily modified Blackbird brackets which are for sale, $50 the pair.

Where did your rollbar go?

I think they pulled it to run the car competitively in a specific autox class, I think STR.

He did. I've been watching his build thread on m.net. (Does he have a build thread on that car here?)

That is the cool thing about our vendors, they go out and break shit/go fast and all we have to do is copy them.

Sort of? Emilio just stated no one is tracking them and I want to track mine lol

FM sent me an email today saying the Fox coilovers are backordered and they have absolutely no window of delivery. So I will most likely be canceling that order and going with something else.

FM has something on back order? NO WAY!

On a side note, after I had given up hope on getting a ND, and just figured I would stick with my car, There is a club with LSD and brembos on CL for $19k tempting me. But it is a 2016, and the guy hasn't replied on whether he has transmission troubles or had it changed out.

Why no Xida's? Although I have probably asked this already sometime back in this thread I bet.

I have talked to two separate guys that have switched from Xidas to Ohlins over at m.net because they didn't like the Xidas.

Plus there is a big "OUT OF STOCK" on the website right now. I know how that goes. I have ordered from 949 plenty in the past.

I think the Xidas probably have more stroke than the Ohlins, but they both come out to about the same cost when the tophats are included and all that. I am not clear on any of the other differences. I have read a lot more feedback on the Ohlins, too.

That ACE system would be super cool, but I don't remember the cost. I think it is actually in this thread, which was when Emilio posted up that 124 with the system.

Curious who those ND owners are. We have only shipped a few sets of ND Xidas and have not heard any negative feedback. The only feedback we have gotten here or read on the web has been positive.
?

In any case, yes, the ND Xidas are currently not available while we make a running spec change. We hope to have them back in stock in about 3 weeks.

One guy said "I had the xida singles with the race spring setup. The rears were bottoming out. When I pulled them off the bumpstops were pushed up almost a full inch and a half."

I am not smart enough to know what that even does, but it caused him to move to custom-valved Ohlins.

The other one was "The issues I had with my Xidas were lack of valving." Your product description specifically says it is valved to handle 850-350 front and 400-200 rear spring rate, so that critique confused me.

I "bought" the Fox coilovers for $1800 when they were on sale, but I need something soon and it looks like Xida's aren't available anyways. So the only other "premium" offering seems to be the Ohlins and I am willing to spend up to 3k total.

Rear ND Xida bump stop resides almost entirely within the coaxial mount. Unless it has been crushed, it is still there and working. To bottom an ND in the rear requires a pretty big hit. If the car is too low, it will bottom. Unlike the NA/NB, there is no additional bump travel room in the ND. Our NA/NB Xidas allow greater than OEM bump travel front and rear. We discovered (in Q2/15) that even with OEM shocks, a 17x9 with 245/40 would hit stuff at full bump and full droop in rear and just destroy stuff up front at full bump. Our ND Xida has both trimmed a few mm to reduce the contact.

Regarding the lack of valving, that is a head scratcher. The current revision we're doing for the ND Xidas is to actually reduce the peak damping force available. We simply never used the last 8 clicks or so so we moved the entire range down. This improved the ride quality on the street. If someone actually wanted more damping, I would question their suspension tuning choices.

In any case, as you pointed out.. we not gots.

Some people would rather bitch on the internet and/or fix the problem themselves than call up the manufacturer/supplier.

When I get an ND, Xidas will be my first purchase. No question.

when I get xidas, ND will be my first purchase.

When I get a question, XIDAs will be my first ND

When the question is ND, Xidas will be my first answer.

All first answers about the ND are Xidas.

XidaND. No questions.

You guys really need to back away from the computer and get outside more.

Are you saying that there are Xida's outside?

As someone who isn't super fast, but competent behind the wheel, XIDAs are a game changer.

Same tires, 1 year older, a few seconds a lap faster at my local, bumpy technical track.

TRUTH!

I canceled my order for the FM Fox coilovers and went with standard Ohlins with 8k front and 4k rear springs. Sakebomb Garage suggested the slightly higher front spring rate than the standard kit with the intention that I will be adding a front swaybar. I also got the Sakebomb Garage tophats and rear adjusters to go with them. I have the FM LBBK that uses Powerlite calipers all around and people have been pretty lukewarm on the BP20 and BP10 pads that it comes with. Sakebomb is selling the Ferodo DS2500 brake pads for the Powerlites and the feedback has been pretty good on them, so I got those too.