Adaptronic Stand Alones at a great price
Ok, I am seriously pissed off......WHERE THE **** DO I FIND OUT WHICH WIRE ON THE TPS IS THE SIGNAL, GRND, AND SOURCE?????????????!!!!!!!!!
I searched the forums, all I can find are the stupid ******* diagrams that show wires, but DO NOT say which one is which.
Travis, you might want to include this in the instructions, as it is very frustrating trying to figure it out. Googled it, no luck. Searched, no luck.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!
I searched the forums, all I can find are the stupid ******* diagrams that show wires, but DO NOT say which one is which.
Travis, you might want to include this in the instructions, as it is very frustrating trying to figure it out. Googled it, no luck. Searched, no luck.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!
Last edited by 18psi; Mar 6, 2009 at 01:49 AM.
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Ok, I am seriously pissed off......WHERE THE **** DO I FIND OUT WHICH WIRE ON THE TPS IS THE SIGNAL, GRND, AND SOURCE?????????????!!!!!!!!!
I searched the forums, all I can find are the stupid ******* diagrams that show wires, but DO NOT say which one is which.
Travis, you might want to include this in the instructions, as it is very frustrating trying to figure it out. Googled it, no luck. Searched, no luck.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!
I searched the forums, all I can find are the stupid ******* diagrams that show wires, but DO NOT say which one is which.
Travis, you might want to include this in the instructions, as it is very frustrating trying to figure it out. Googled it, no luck. Searched, no luck.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!
Travis
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18psi,
Are you talking about at the ecu? If so it should be pin 3E. Its in the little picture below the NA connectors. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t13676/#post168118
Are you talking about at the ecu? If so it should be pin 3E. Its in the little picture below the NA connectors. https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t13676/#post168118
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Ok, I am seriously pissed off......WHERE THE **** DO I FIND OUT WHICH WIRE ON THE TPS IS THE SIGNAL, GRND, AND SOURCE?????????????!!!!!!!!!
I searched the forums, all I can find are the stupid ******* diagrams that show wires, but DO NOT say which one is which.
Travis, you might want to include this in the instructions, as it is very frustrating trying to figure it out. Googled it, no luck. Searched, no luck.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!
I searched the forums, all I can find are the stupid ******* diagrams that show wires, but DO NOT say which one is which.
Travis, you might want to include this in the instructions, as it is very frustrating trying to figure it out. Googled it, no luck. Searched, no luck.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!
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Might be another dumb questions, but does this also come with it's own knock sensor, temp sensor and all typical ancillary items?
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So for my 94, I am thinking I can order just the ECU and build my own harness similar to the boomslang MS harness...
...and then handle VVT separately direct with adaptronic?
...and then handle VVT separately direct with adaptronic?
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What you want to do for the easiest install is probably order a 1.8L PNP NA harness. Then under the hood route the wires to the right positions(timing sensors). The PRCV valve which is emissions equipment can be deleted and rerouted to control the VVT mechanism. Or you can do a full on 2m loom and just go for it from the cabin.
As far as external parts, the only thing you might have to purchase is a GM temperature sensor. You can purchase anytype you want the system is programable. The stock sensors are wired in, but they are unreliable under boost conditions. Knock sensor is factory,
As far as external parts, the only thing you might have to purchase is a GM temperature sensor. You can purchase anytype you want the system is programable. The stock sensors are wired in, but they are unreliable under boost conditions. Knock sensor is factory,
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So you still need to buy a GM Air Temp Sensor. What do you mean the Knock sensor is factory? It comes with the Adaptronic?
What you want to do for the easiest install is probably order a 1.8L PNP NA harness. Then under the hood route the wires to the right positions(timing sensors). The PRCV valve which is emissions equipment can be deleted and rerouted to control the VVT mechanism. Or you can do a full on 2m loom and just go for it from the cabin.
As far as external parts, the only thing you might have to purchase is a GM temperature sensor. You can purchase anytype you want the system is programable. The stock sensors are wired in, but they are unreliable under boost conditions. Knock sensor is factory,
As far as external parts, the only thing you might have to purchase is a GM temperature sensor. You can purchase anytype you want the system is programable. The stock sensors are wired in, but they are unreliable under boost conditions. Knock sensor is factory,
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It depends on if you are turbocharged or not. The stock intake air temperature sensor was not designed to be used with turbocharged vehicles. If your running N/A then no temp sensor is required. If your running turbo, then you have to get a sensor that threads or clamps onto the intake tube. Otherwise the temperature sensor will just blow out. The sensors should not be more then a 10-15 dollars.
The knock sensor is the Mazda Miata factory knock sensor. So no modification needed there.
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Wellllllllll....
<pauses... shakes head... reviews wiring diagrams... shakes head again...
That is an excellant observation Rafa.
I just assumed one existed.
Knock sensor not included. I would recommend a GM version.
I am going to paste a conversation I had about this with someone who has experience with different knock sensors and the adaptronic.
<pauses... shakes head... reviews wiring diagrams... shakes head again...
That is an excellant observation Rafa.
I just assumed one existed.
Knock sensor not included. I would recommend a GM version.
I am going to paste a conversation I had about this with someone who has experience with different knock sensors and the adaptronic.
I checked mine using det cans, but I still occasionally get false knock. If I do a power run in 2nd gear I alwasy get false knock. Its quite annoying.
I've tried several different non-resonant knock sensors and they all give a very noisey peak over about 500rpm, usually 10 times great than the usually back ground noise. I've settled on a GM sensor for now as this seems fairly stable above 4000rpm, its noisey peak is at 3000-3500 and goes as high as 120, where as the back noise elsewhere is about 10-20. I've set the filter up to get around the noise, but its no perfect.
I've tried several different non-resonant knock sensors and they all give a very noisey peak over about 500rpm, usually 10 times great than the usually back ground noise. I've settled on a GM sensor for now as this seems fairly stable above 4000rpm, its noisey peak is at 3000-3500 and goes as high as 120, where as the back noise elsewhere is about 10-20. I've set the filter up to get around the noise, but its no perfect.
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I am very much on the fence but very seriously leaning toward ordering one...what is the price drop currently off the $680 price for jsut the ecu. take the $30 and the $40 off...so 610?
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Yea thats the current price. The basic package without a harness does not include the MAP sensor. You can either source it yourself or you can pick one up from me for $50 with the pigtail connector.
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I think that that causes CELs, because the engine goes through a set of warmup functions that require specific responses from the motor. Doing it this way I believe it locks water temperature at 185-190, air temperature at 70, AFM at idle. This keeps the motor in eternal happyness where it doesn't have to do alot of controlling.
The adaptronic is actually fed the correct values, the stock ECU can't see any of the this.
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