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Thanks for your input guys. I would likely have carbon wheels on my mtn bike if I didn't want to keep the rim brakes. I want to keep the rim brakes because I'm dumb.
For clinchers wanting to be light, latex tubes or Aircomp butyls? Or just stick to whatever the LBS sells? The Giant tubes my LBS sells are quite nice and very inexpensive, but average weight.
RE: Rim tape. I ask also because I went through some difficulty with using velox cotton tape on my LB clinchers/giant butyl tubes. The tire would push the velox around, bunching up in the bead area and/or uncovering the nipple holes causing the tube to tear as it pushed into the nipple hole. It's been fine for a while but when I switch to the GP2000's soon I want to redo the tape. The cannondale and fulcrum rims have what now looks like stans type tape/plastic strapping tape. I think I'm going to try the strong filament tape we have here at work. It's thinner than the velox (2 layers are .007), light, more than strong enough at one layer, and if I'm sticking with tubes then I don't care if it doesn't form an airtight seal around the nipple holes.
In other news, if published weights are to be trusted (ha!) I have .83lbs of lightness coming for my porker tarmac. That's at least half a ****.
Anyone have DA 7900 shifters/derailleurs they want to sell? That will get me another .48lb.
Gorilla tape for rim tape. I keep using some stans yellow I had sitting around, but frankly teh groilla tape is better, lighter and easier to work with. Bonus points for being able to rip/cut it to get the exact width I want.
No strapping tape. Stick with what works, Pro mechanics use Gorilla tape.
The hard plastic tubeless conversion tapes can all be split or cracked if poked with a tire lever or even pressed too hard with your finger. Only use Stan's if if easily conforms to the drop center of your wheel with no air gaps. If there is a gap the tape bridges, the high air pressure can cause it to rupture.
This weakness of Stan's and other TL specific tapes is largely why most shops don't even bother. They just default to Gorilla tape because it always works. Only potential downside to Gorilla is if you are a total weight weenie is that is weighs more. Like the injury trade off though, 20g of tape is not worth
a punctured tape flat out in the middle of nowhere.
Stay away from latex tubes. Poorest puncture resistance, poor air retention, fragile and expensive. Latex tubes are 30 year old tech.
I decided to spend the money from selling my 6UL's (my 6ULR's are still for sale) on bike upgrades. Try to get some weight off of my 17.4lb tarmac. I realized I would basically have all the parts to build up another bike with the tarmac take-offs. So searching for "cheap" frames I ended up with this, 2013ish Van Dessel Rivet. I may end up putting all these new fancy parts onto this frame instead. I'm not sure what my Fact9 SL4 frameset weights yet (can only seem to find fact10/11 or Sworks weights online) but this 54cm came in at 1245g with the bb30 bearings. Enve 2.0 is 386g with the bearing race and stem insert.
Perhaps silly questions that I am over thinking:
If I want to replace 105 shifters with duraace, which take the same cable:
1. Will I need new cables because reinserting a cable that has a flat section a few inches from the end (from the deraileur clamp) into the housing be impossible? I can't seem to find shimano cables sans housing, for brakes or derailleurs
2. For hidden cable frames, is there a tube inside the frame that guides the cable to the opposite hole at the bottom bracket?
Perhaps silly questions that I am over thinking:
If I want to replace 105 shifters with duraace, which take the same cable:
1. Will I need new cables because reinserting a cable that has a flat section a few inches from the end (from the deraileur clamp) into the housing be impossible? I can't seem to find shimano cables sans housing, for brakes or derailleurs
2. For hidden cable frames, is there a tube inside the frame that guides the cable to the opposite hole at the bottom bracket?
2) some times. Most newer frames have internal housings. Also, Many do not. Coathanger for the ones that do not. Good luck if you don't, it's a pita. My mtb doesn't have internal routing and it drives me nuts when I have to replace housings.
2) some times. Most newer frames have internal housings. Also, Many do not. Coathanger for the ones that do not. Good luck if you don't, it's a pita. My mtb doesn't have internal routing and it drives me nuts when I have to replace housings.
Thanks. I didn't realize you should replace cables that often. I typically go amazon for a part search and part numbers for LBS, and found nothing using the app. Just searched using my computer and found the cables separately, which is ~$0.75 cheaper than the same cable with the housing...which is only $8 for both and my sanity is worth at least that much. Brake cables are a bit more but same deal.
I'll search to see if the tarmacs have an internal guide tube. Thanks!!
Frame just arrived, 61cm. I'm having to scour ebay for international sellers that have the various group components. It should be a good four weeks before I have all the bits here to build it. I'll post it here when's its done.
Stuff I have ordered for it:
R9150 Dura Ace Di2 hydro
-11-30 D/A cassette
-Di2 Junction A inside bar EW-RS910
-160mm SM-RT900 (R9150) front
-140mm SM-RT900 rear
-G04Ti pads
Lightning 180mm cranks
SRM 110bcd power meter
SRAM Red 11s 52/36 chainrings
3T Ergonova Team 42cm
PD-9000 D/A pedals - used
Light bicycle 46mm tubeless DT240 straight pull CX Ray 24H
25mm Schwalbe One tubeless
Specialized Romin Evo carbon 155mm
Garmin mount for Edge 520 - used
Nice! Interesting choice on cassette. Didn't know DA RD would handle that with those chainrings.
I run 12-25 and looking for a 12-23(10 speed) Not much hills here.
While installing the FD on my van dessel I saw a "56cm" sticker inside the BB shell, not a 54 as advertised on eBay. That puts it pretty much same geo as my tarmac.
QUOTE=TurboTim;1397957]Nice! Interesting choice on cassette. Didn't know DA RD would handle that with those chainrings.
I run 12-25 and looking for a 12-23(10 speed) Not much hills here.
While installing the FD on my van dessel I saw a "56cm" sticker inside the BB shell, not a 54 as advertised on eBay. That puts it pretty much same geo as my tarmac.[/QUOTE]
New R9150 Dura Ace is a mountain bike inspired Shadow configuration. Designed for 11-30 cassette. Friend at Shimano tells me 11-32 works just fine too, just not officially.
Nothing crazy to add, but I swapped my old cheap wire bead front tire for a fancy, mostly worm out, Emilio handmedown continental ultra sport folding bead. I have a $15 wire bead continental on the back still. Rode it home from work tonight.
Wow. What a difference a fancy tire can make. Ride quality is amazing.
Semi-synchro and Synchro is damn cool. Programmable shifters are also damn cool.
Turns out the ebay seller in Italy didn't have the STI's and brakes. Canceled the order. Soonest I should be able to get them will be end of June. Other bits are mostly here. So I'm buying a used/takeoff set of ST-R785 (Ultegra-ish) Di2 hydro shifters and BR-RS805 (105-ish) flat mount calipers now so I can put the bike together in the next few weeks. The 785 shifters and 805 brakes will be up for sale in July when the D/A stuff becomes available.
It's wednesday, so it's time for my weekly night ride. I've been riding with a pair of single speed death march riders lately. These guys tie on 50+/10k+ rides often so riding with them has forced me to up my game. We're going to be hitting up a pretty common local route called maple springs to motorway. Should be around 17 miles and 3500'. Not bad for a school night :P https://www.strava.com/routes/7143230
I thought I'd add a few photo's of my light setup. LED lighting tech has come a super long way recently and you can get into the game for really cheap. The biggest change isn't just the lumens, but rather the color temperature. Both of my lights utilize neutral white emitters... the night vision and trail definition difference this makes vs the old cool blue emitters is amazing.
Old light head in the middle, new tech on Left and Right.
Ultra Wide and Spot Optics in the helmet light.
Handle bar light is remote operated.
Gopro handle bar mount with finned heatsink mount for the handle bar light.
Wide-Spot Optics for the handlebar mount. I like a good amount of throw for crusing at speed.
Night riding is an insane experience if you've never done it before. You end up in this zen place in your own little light bubble flowing down the trail. I like to ride my hard tail on my night rides to slow myself down... If i take my FS bike I end up riding way faster then I should. All in I probably have about 250ish in this light setup. If I wanted to, I could really ride just about as fast as night as I do during the day with this setup.
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